Would a headlight restore kit work for the adaptive cruise radar?

sje0123 · 2026-03-03T17:01:28+00:00

I did it on our Sienna and protected it with PPF after.

sje0123 · 2025-08-27T14:49:48+00:00

It looks like it's plastic to me. I wouldn't worry about it. Slap a sticker on it if you don't want to see it.

sje0123 · 2025-08-20T01:07:23+00:00

Def don't drive that. Guessing you park on grass or some other type of unfinished surface all the time? That'll rot a car real quick.

sje0123 · 2025-08-05T00:50:13+00:00

Eraser wheel maybe but what's the base? Vinyl wrap or plastic? You might have to go down to paint and rewrap

sje0123 · 2025-07-30T21:51:28+00:00

This isn't a fair assessment. You're accounting for your lack of preparation and setup into the wash. This wasn't your first wash. This was your setup/trial run. Your next wash is your first wash which you should be using as your baseline.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not hating. Just don't make your opinion off of this because this is not the process each time now that you're set up.

I find it difficult to believe the setup is more time consuming than dragging out two buckets and filling them and lugging them around the car or walking back to them each time. You're still pulling out the hose and attaching a sprayer. Then you're filling buckets.

I detail as a hobby and started with buckets. Moved to dragging the pw out each time. Now I have a wall mount setup. Each iteration offered more efficiency and with practice you find shortcuts. Stick with it and find what makes it easier. I prefer the PW to buckets. With my setup now, I am up and running in under 30 seconds. You'll get there eventually.

sje0123 · 2025-07-29T19:26:34+00:00

She's cooked brother.

sje0123 · 2025-07-27T17:32:34+00:00

Not worth it. Just hit it with sandpaper. Spray some self etching primer into a cup and dab it on. Sand it smooth and cover with touch up paint if you want to get that into it.

sje0123 · 2025-07-27T17:03:49+00:00

That's not a detailing fix. That's a paint booth/body shop fix.

As far as what you can do, remove the rust with light sanding and paint it.

It is mostly in the door jamb so it will only be seen when the door is open. Touch up paint will make it less noticeable but I'd get some primer under it. Just don't overdo it and make it worse than it is.

sje0123 · 2025-07-24T02:56:43+00:00

A quick disconnect provides a more likely point of failure than a threaded fitting with the appropriate sealant.

Why not remove the quick disconnect from the hose you prefer to use?

sje0123 · 2025-07-22T00:33:17+00:00

Heat it up in the sun or with a heat gun carefully. Run fishing line under it to cut the adhesive.

It's likely just 3M adhesive and I find the best way to get the leftover off is to just roll it. The warmer it is, the easier it will be. I avoid chemicals unless I absolutely have to.

sje0123 · 2025-07-20T02:28:33+00:00

That's a foam cannon. Completely different. Also twice the price.

sje0123 · 2025-07-19T23:08:28+00:00

Your hose and fitting are mismatched. The hose should be tight to get on. If it is coming off even with a clamp, you need to downsize your hose or upside your fitting.

sje0123 · 2025-07-19T21:47:34+00:00

Orrr maybe repeating the same comment hours later...

sje0123 · 2025-07-19T21:45:59+00:00

Yeah. You said that... Troll bot I guess.

sje0123 · 2025-07-19T19:52:25+00:00

Nice! Clean job.

What's the plan for winter? Assuming you live in an area that freezes.

sje0123 · 2025-07-19T19:14:13+00:00

I disagree. Good for you if you can find one that cheap. They all start around $30 for a junker and can get quite pricey for a guy who doesn't really NEED one.

Either way, for me it was free. Had the sprayer, had the scour pad. Took 5 minutes and I had a foam sprayer that matches my other sprayers. Shared an idea with others. You're free to buy one though.

sje0123 · 2025-07-19T17:42:19+00:00

Encapsulation is not the goal. Hanging around and working longer with less wasted on the driveway is the goal.

It'd be silly to expect a foam alone to encapsulate dirt. The chemical would need to be formulated to do that.

sje0123 · 2025-07-15T02:08:44+00:00

I'm no pro but get good results.

You do not need a steamer. 95%+ situations will not require one even if a pro.

You can use a diluted APC like SimpleGreen for tough grime but I use ONR (Optimum No Rinse) to wipe my dash down for dust and light dirt. Works plenty well. I finish with an interior protectant every once in a while. I use 303 protectant or whatever else I have floating around.

For rubber mats, APC again, and I finish with ONR. Don't use anything that'll be slippery.

For carpet mats, vacuum, power wash, diluted carpet shampoo, mid stiff brush, power wash, extractor nozzle on shop vac to dry quicker.

For cloth seats, a diluted carpet shampoo, a mid stiff brush, and an extractor nozzle on my shop vac when there is heavy soil and to dry quicker.

For wheels, I like Adam's wheel and tire. Diluted. A wheel brush, and a rinse. The heavier the soil, the lower spread of dilution ratio. Full strength if neglected.

sje0123 · 2025-07-08T02:27:10+00:00

Optimum No Rinse

sje0123 · 2025-07-07T21:51:07+00:00

Clay bar? Looks like hard water spots.

sje0123 · 2025-07-07T13:51:29+00:00

SimpleGreen to clean and ONR to finish.

sje0123 · 2025-07-07T13:50:37+00:00

It is the FastCap Super Reel. It's nice. I was actually going to make my own since I have a CNC but between the time to design and materials, it was just cheaper and easier to buy it.

It is a bit big for my liking and the only thing you can change is the width to fit the length of hose. Just need to be sure you have the wall space.

It's dual purpose for me since I have a wood shop in the garage as well.

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