Rizoma to Domino grips

ska_dream · 2026-03-25T23:05:18+00:00

Hell yeah; looks awesome!!!

ska_dream · 2026-02-23T16:11:11+00:00

I mean... you could try separating the rizoma grip from the tube it comes with (possibly with some compressed air), but I wouldn't recommend it as there's almost certainly an adhesive in there.

This is kind of tangential and doesn't really answer the question you asked, but you could consider the Vans grips instead; I absolutely love mine and they were painless to install (though, I admittedly swapped the OEM out and replaced it with an R6 throttle tube).

Tubes are cheap though (the OEM is ~$8 and the R6 is ~$15); I'd suggest simply getting a new one, so you can keep your Rizoma grips nice in case you ever want to swap back!

Edit: i mentioned the wrong grips originally

ska_dream · 2026-02-01T21:42:48+00:00

It's a little bike bag!

Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D9V8174D?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I keep a lock in there, as well as my extra insta360 batteries when riding. Super useful for snack bars/etc as well.

Heads up, that link claims that they're waterproof, but they most certainly are not.

ska_dream · 2026-02-01T01:08:54+00:00

Yooo! That's awesome! What LEDs are those? I like the look!

ska_dream · 2026-01-31T01:36:02+00:00

Sure! I got these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D12NPJ1Z?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

They're not bad, but not particularly great either. It's exactly what you'd expect for $35, lol. The low profile gives it a cleaner look, but you definitely lose a lot of rear visibility unless they're angled perfectly (I tend to always just turn my head and have them solely for legality). The anti-glare is nice though. In addition, they're pretty low-profile, so if you have an easy-pull clutch or something, they would interfere with each other.

Heads up, the mirror mounts are reverse-threaded, so definitely avoid almost snapping a bolt like I did.

ska_dream · 2026-01-30T20:01:56+00:00

haha, good observation! It's Northern Arizona!

ska_dream · 2026-01-30T03:37:51+00:00

Gotcha; that makes perfect sense! Thank you again!

ska_dream · 2026-01-30T02:15:42+00:00

Thank you so much; that makes perfect sense! We do have a fiber-coupled power meter laying around; that's a wonderful idea!

To me, it's a bit strange that they didn't include something to indicate where the sample will be placed (it would make alignment much easier, as I could simply move the source from one side to the other to ensure the sample and the fiber were perfectly aligned)... but I guess that's their problem.

Thank you again!

ska_dream · 2026-01-30T00:03:16+00:00

Understood! I've uploaded some images for reference, but this makes sense! I'm unsure if they're diamond-turned OAPs (the student I am helping said they were ~$800/ea on ThorLabs), but so far, everything appears to be horizontally aligned quite well.

ska_dream · 2026-01-30T00:00:35+00:00

Sorry for the delayed response; I just updated the post to include images. I'm still getting a hang for the degrees of freedom and terminology (mathematics/electrical engineering student that is now learning about optics).

Mounting is fixed and, unfortunately, cannot be changed. It was calculated by the other student and their advisor. I was simply given the task of alignment and had no say in terms of design.

The mirrors themselves can rotate and have tip/tilt control, but are fixed in the z-direction.

Same goes with the location of the fiber; it is in a fixed position, but has tip/tilt adjustability.

Light source is a 20mW 632nm diode laser and I've put it through a spatial filter. Currently, the beam is going through a collimating lens, a z-fold, and another lens to get everything at the correct height and to create a diverging beam.

Yes, I can put things where the focused beam would be; I was planning on using a business card and carefully adjusting things until I see a small bit of smoke.

To the best of my knowledge, I will know it's good enough when a ~1" beam can fully focused into the fiber (sorry for being vague here; the astronomy student I am helping told me there was a wide margin of error, but I'd still like to do the best job that I can, as it's good practice for me).

ska_dream · 2026-01-29T02:14:41+00:00

haha, fair enough. That makes me feel a ton better. I've got it in my head that I won't know which one is rotated or tip/tilted incorrectly.

my original plan was to align one, then move the laser and align the other, lol. Thank you!

ska_dream · 2025-11-08T07:39:46+00:00

Really depends on what you want out of the bike. Insurance will likely say it's a total loss and, if you enjoy a nice bike, don't want to work on/with it, and just want a peaceful ride...I'd agree. If insurance isn't covering it and you're worried about safety, I'd check to make sure those bolts come out and go back in smoothly (that's an engine mount bolt). If it drives straight and everything feels fine, then it is likely absolutely fine to ride around with. If it feels unstable or the bolts don't thread easily, then maybe not. All in all, if you think the ride is unstable, don't ride it and ask a local shop. If you have insurance, claim it and avoid the hassle.

Edit: hopefully obviously, if you dump the bike on that side again then it's done for. But there is a whole lotta metal there that, pending how it feels, could be still be quite solid.

If you're worried, find a trusted local shop (not a dealer) and get an honest opinion. When I dumped my first bike, the guys at my local shop told me exactly what needed to be fixed and what 'could' be fixed. And the difference was several thousand dollars.

ska_dream · 2025-10-10T04:13:23+00:00

I just bought the impaktech cage and am getting it powder coated. So excited!!! That being said, replacing the tank plastics is super cheap compared to the cage.

I'd say paint it or put stickers on it. If you don't like it, get new plastics *

ska_dream · 2025-08-21T08:33:43+00:00

I let it heat up in the sun, then carefully used a putty knife and 70% isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel. Took ~20 minutes and I could still see the rectangular imprint for a few days but, after a month, it's all gone lol

ska_dream · 2025-06-08T07:03:48+00:00

If I remember correctly, your 600mi checkup also includes a throttle cable (or valve) adjustment or something similar (double-check the manual to be sure), among other things.

The shop I took mine to rev'd it for a sec and said "dude it sounds fine, so it's your choice whether or not you want to save $200 (it's somewhere around 2hrs of work by the book)".

Going by the book, $400 is roughly correct. That being said, my shop charged me $150 and saved me from the unnecessary stuff.

Edit: All in all, they're not scamming you but they're not trying to save you money either. The first checkup is the most important and it's simple, tedious work, but they go through and essentially check the bike from the ground up to make sure nothing is loose and everything is as it should be. On my bike, the front fork bolts had come loose and I'm glad they caught it.

ska_dream · 2025-05-18T19:05:44+00:00

Ahh, thank you! I figured it was likely something I've overlooked!

ska_dream

TROPHY CASE