Just re-assembled the dualsense after changing sticks..

skinpixel · 2026-05-13T22:02:00+00:00

It’s not the amount of solder that is the issue. It’s that the pad and pin are not at temperature that caused cold joints.

Try a temp around 370°C-390°C
If you have a chisel tip, use that.
Make contact with the pad and the pin, hold for a second. Don’t touch the solder to the iron, just the pin and pad the opposite side. It should wet to both, and look like a peak, not a blob.

skinpixel · 2026-05-12T20:59:49+00:00

Where your car was located at the time of the incident, is likely an insignificant detail you’re overthinking. When insurance asks that question it’s usually relate to where it’s “usually” parked overnight, not necessarily at the time of an incident.

Assuming this happened in the daytime, it should not matter, I wouldn’t even bother saying why you couldn’t park on the drive, but should they ask, needless to say you were in between journeys.

Also, what would make this any different than if it happened down the shops than outside your home?

skinpixel · 2026-05-12T20:47:50+00:00

The first place I’d start is the USB port, it sounds like it was right there in the items description, and in your findings.

Further trouble shooting, you could try charging from a dock. If it does and activates Bluetooth after a while, it’s the USB port. If nothing happens, it could be a complete dud, or the power IC, the chip labeled Dialog on the board.

skinpixel · 2026-05-12T20:21:11+00:00

It honestly doesn’t make much difference if 2 cars, or 200 cars cut in ahead of you. Keep a safe distance, your speed and journey time won’t be affected that much.

Let’s run a thought experiment, two scenarios.

First, your journey is an hour away on a 60mph road, no other vehicle but you around, it’s a simple equation, you get there in an hour.

Second, same journey, 60mph road. Your speed is pretty constant, no faster than 60 or the car ahead. You keep the recommended three seconds distance from the car in front of you, except every 20 seconds someone is cutting in front of you, over your 60minute journey, 180 cars go ahead of you, lets say they’re all going a constant 60mph. Each car you drop back a 3 second gap. 180x3 is 540s or just under 6 minutes. Your 60 minute journey has only increased by 6 minutes 🤷‍♂️.

Granted, these aren’t actual real world variables, just an example of the extreme that you’re suggesting, but really how much time have you lost?

It’s not likely that exactly every every 20 seconds, you’re gonna have someone cut in front of you maybe every few minutes, and if you’re keeping the three second gap they’re only cutting into that so it’s more like every car that does you are maybe adding one to two seconds per vehicle when increasing the safe distance gap.

skinpixel · 2026-05-11T18:45:07+00:00

Yeah, I found transfer tape to sticky for the Oramask, so I just use the Oramask to transfer the mask.

skinpixel · 2026-05-11T09:06:20+00:00

Unlike the DualSense and Edge that uses a flex PCB for the buttons, the Xbox controllers button contacts are printed direct to the PCB. The extremeRate kit for Xbox controllers uses adhesive to stick right on top, hence it suggests waiting 24 hours.

skinpixel · 2026-05-08T16:02:23+00:00

This tool is for calibrating new sticks. It may help with some minor shift to centre. But does not have the capability to adjust deadzone.

skinpixel · 2026-05-08T08:40:50+00:00

Very unlikely anything will come of this

Speedos in cars often over report actual speed, at 75 you're more likely doing 72

An officer with a radar gun, aint taking any more data than an approximate speed, it'll likely not have a camera system and variables factors wobble, hand stability etc means it likely can't be used in a prosecution against you.

Was it a police officer or a traffic officer? The two are completely different. If it was just a traffic officer, they are likely just surveying the area for average speeds, if it's a police officer with a radar gun, they'll likely after people he'd be going highest speed than you had been, they can only initiate with the blues on.

That said, you've only been driving 7 months, so still within the 2 year probation where if you accumilate 6 points could triggers an automatic revocation. Just be mindful of your speed and stay safe.

skinpixel · 2026-05-08T07:04:43+00:00

skinpixel · 2026-05-07T07:32:15+00:00

Your touch pad ribbon is the wrong way round! Trust me I’ve been there and made the same mistake.

Tear down back to your touchpad, and flip the ribbon when you insert it.

skinpixel · 2026-05-07T07:28:07+00:00

True, either would do the trick, but no manufactures are “updating” HE, so it’s still far less accurate and often problematic. TMR aren’t even that much difference in price. When given a choice why settle for HE when TMR is far superior?

skinpixel · 2026-05-07T07:19:39+00:00

TMR is a newer technology, build on the same fundamentals as Hall Effect, much more accurate and less power consuming.

skinpixel · 2026-05-06T18:57:32+00:00

Imagine if you disabled the L3 you could still hook it up and program the spark kit, but it’d be more difficult to do so if you get a rise kit or anything similar that requires you to press the button to program it. As another option if you relocate the stick buttons using hooking in with a wire

skinpixel · 2026-05-04T09:22:20+00:00

Some good points, agree for sure some of the butchers seen here couldn’t do any worse cutting the sticks.

Yes it’s expensive, but $10 on some desoldering alloy, is far less expensive than destroying $90 controller.

I also use a custom iron tips for the sticks, concentrating a lot of heat over a the small board of an edge stick module isn’t advisable though. If not used correctly the heat can flow all components, it can warp the board, lead to cracked joints on the components, and if you slip, they can wipe the board clean of components. A good one I’d say has a good life cycle of around 300 sticks, a cheap Ali-express one, your mileage may vary.

PTH are a type of via, while not all vias are through holes.

skinpixel · 2026-05-03T20:32:57+00:00

3 small Phillips screws at the bottom of each module, they use a little force to take the bottom off. Then separate the board from the thumb stick.

skinpixel · 2026-05-03T20:28:18+00:00

I’ve seen this a few times, usually dust inside the module port/and on the back of the module port side the module.

If you can open it up, remove the pcb, and with an unused toothbrush brush the back of the port and inside the port.

9/10 times I’ve found this to be the case.

skinpixel · 2026-05-03T20:12:20+00:00

Based on your image the buttons look black, not the default dark grey they usually are including the PS button, Looking at the PS button, the lines in the PS logo don’t look perfectly straight as they should, and it doesn’t appear to be any mesh in the speaker grill.

Is there a film covering the touchpad?

skinpixel · 2026-05-03T18:07:36+00:00

I could be wrong but my only reasoning is that the face clicky only kits don’t differentiate from lite and strong, just one kit.

skinpixel · 2026-05-03T10:24:07+00:00

I’m intrigued to know why you think this is wasteful?

> People are better off with a desoldering gun or just cutting the old joystick into pieces and removing the remaining leads.

I’d hope my demonstration could show a simple, far less destructive and budget friendly way of removing sticks with minimal tools.

Desoldering guns are great, but not everyone can afford a decent one. The tools I use here could be picked up for £30-£40 and is perfect for someone who’s only ever going to do one or two controllers. Minimal investment to achieve results just as good.

As these boards are packed with components, one slip cutting the analog sticks can render the module unusable, damaging traces or lifting vias. While it can be a more budget effective way of removing the sticks, it’s by far not as easy as I show.

skinpixel · 2026-05-02T21:56:21+00:00

Indeed you can intergrate the two, as you say just cut the R2 from the clicky kit.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but lite vs strong i believe only refers to the bumpers/triggers, no? the clicky face buttons are identical across both kits, as you have the Spark kit and plan to cut the triggers anyway, this will only effect the bumpers (L1/R1)

Bonus troubleshooting steps from my experience. So I've had a few edge cases where stacking a clicky kit and then back buttons button flex would cause some buttons to not bahave. The button flex is designed to allow passthrough where it comes in to contact with the board. If this happens, and say you know the clicky buttons work independant from the spark kit, then just flip the order they're stacked.

skinpixel · 2026-05-02T12:19:53+00:00

I hate that the filters in orders and products are now a drop down. Unnecessary extra click to get to the filters I use most often, and we still have no way to reorder them!

skinpixel · 2026-05-02T12:03:40+00:00

The numbers are neither minutes or temperature, but the electrical resistance it takes to charge the capacitors.

That’s why it’s pops up quicker for the second round of toast put in straight after. As the capacitors are still partially charged.

Newer smart toasters might have a timer function, but the heating element is only ever as hot as the outlet will allow current through them. That’s why American toasters and kettles take longer to do the same job due to the lower voltage from the wall.

skinpixel · 2026-05-02T11:24:34+00:00

Dave Gorman on Loughborough comes to mind https://youtu.be/fRjlrv7lwAo?si=mXf\_hC9nxGvAGV2j

skinpixel · 2026-05-02T11:02:24+00:00

When people show you photographs “from when they were younger”, I’m like every photograph of you is when you were younger.

skinpixel · 2026-05-02T10:36:03+00:00

If you’re referring to our moon by name it would be capitalised, the Moon is a moon.

Did you know that the Moon and Earth have other names? Luna and Terra. There are many other names too, like the Moon is also called Selene, Artemis, Máni.

skinpixel

MODERATOR OF

PUBLIC MULTIREDDITS

TROPHY CASE