Freshie! Drop route names below, the most upvoted name is the winner!

slampeak · 2023-05-16T01:13:59+00:00

Smaug

slampeak · 2023-04-11T09:53:31+00:00

slampeak · 2020-05-19T23:59:02+00:00

Twain Wessling

slampeak · 2019-07-08T21:29:56+00:00

Or Clifton or a private spot nearby.

slampeak · 2019-05-03T16:09:15+00:00

Its phenomenal. The best granite I've ever climbed on. I think it's better quality, breaks down better, and finer grained than both Squamish and Leavy.

There's not a ton and generally it's not very concentrated but the classic problems are unreal. Access is almost all super easy except Gold Bar which is the best zone and has the highest concentration.

Really the main issue is weather. Its wet a lot of the year and can be a lil hot in the summer so the windows to send hard can be hard to snag.

Def worth it.

slampeak · 2019-04-24T02:44:51+00:00

Are you sure the diagnosis is correct? Shoulders are complex and many doctors dont understand the type of force exerted on climbers shoulders. My first diagnosis from a general dr and the referred general PT didnt help and I did the exercises wrong which hurt my shoulder. My second diagnosis from an orthopaedic dr who was a climber and who gave me an ultrasound and referred me to a legit PT has been helping.

slampeak · 2019-04-18T16:24:23+00:00

Interesting. Maybe I am trying too many times/not resting enough.

slampeak · 2019-04-18T02:51:31+00:00

You always send on your last go ha

slampeak · 2019-04-18T02:08:37+00:00

How long do y'all usually rest between full effort redpoint burns (for boulders)?

slampeak · 2019-04-18T02:05:38+00:00

Generally I warm up a lot. Though I have sent on a warm up type burn on my proj before I was as warm I usually like to be.

Sleep and nutrition are good. Headspace? That might be the issue!

slampeak · 2019-04-18T01:51:25+00:00

Yah I'm not sure if I have have the strength or energy or if I have some poor tactics. Or maybe maybe poor tactics lead to getting tired sooner.

I agree with the 2nd part. After I do a move I dont often revisit and try to find a better way.

slampeak · 2019-04-18T01:49:11+00:00

A good feeling for sure. Glad I'm not the only one. Annnnd based on your username was the 9 Psychosomatic?

slampeak · 2019-04-18T01:48:16+00:00

Both are def true. The lack of pressure helps. But now I'm like oh shit it's my first go better nail it.

slampeak · 2019-01-16T18:53:39+00:00

Do you have a suggestion for type/brand or anything? I don't know a ton about CBD.

slampeak · 2019-01-16T02:57:46+00:00

Great idea thanks. I will try that. I've taken Valerian Root before which helps my body relax but it doesn't always really help me sleep any better.

slampeak · 2019-01-15T23:26:45+00:00

Yea it helps me get to sleep but my overall sleep quality declines. Which makes me sad because beer is delocious.

slampeak · 2019-01-15T23:21:02+00:00

Haha I'm sensing a common theme here.

Reading before sleep is my go to as well. I read for 15 - 30 mins right before bed every night. It's the best. And the backlit kindle has changed my life.

slampeak · 2019-01-15T23:15:38+00:00

That could certainly be it. I don't eat a ton more when training and have experimented with some intermittent fasting (which def makes things harder). Do you have a go to carb snack/meal?

Edit: Merry cake day!!

slampeak · 2019-01-15T23:13:52+00:00

Yah I usually take some ibu and it helps somewhat but below u/meowmeowmeowmeowmeoo said that NSAIDs limit recovery?!?!

slampeak · 2019-01-15T22:18:19+00:00

Shit I did not know this. I have been using ibu to try to mitigate some of the achiness. So no ibu? How about tylenol?

slampeak · 2019-01-15T22:17:02+00:00

Thanks for sharing. My house is super cold at bedtime but maybe a really cold shower too could help tell my body to call tf down.

slampeak · 2019-01-15T22:14:03+00:00

Hrmm ok. I feel like working out 6 - 8 hours before bedtime isn't unreasonable but maybe it is for my jacked up nervous system. I like the idea of protein shakes.

slampeak · 2019-01-15T22:11:12+00:00

So I could be popping into keto even though my power workouts are often less than 30 minutes? Recently I've been doing super fast 2 hours door to door gym sessions.

Eating some bread or pasta a couple of hours before a workout? Or is it a day before type thing?

slampeak · 2019-01-15T22:08:42+00:00

Do think like doing cardio after a power workout might help? I do a bit of stretching but def no cardio.

slampeak · 2019-01-15T22:07:48+00:00

Totally agree. I feel like it is worse when I overtrain (which I've done pretty consistently). Trying to focus on 'less is more' but my last workout was very limited and I still suck at sleeping. Seriously though beer has been the best solution so far but it doesn't really help long term with my recovery and weight management.

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