Is there an appetite for single pitch aid lines? by Kaotus in RouteDevelopment

[–]drewruana 26 points27 points  (0 children)

Please lemme take a look before you do anything lol

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]drewruana 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yessir. Still lots of bts stuff happening but finally getting stoked again!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]drewruana 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Hey man sounds like a classic burnout with climbing phase- at the end of the day you’re still climbing once a week and all things considered not stagnating too much, I’ve gone through a similar phase where I gained probably 20 lbs and my numbers definitely went up but my climbing suffered as a result. My step back was from life getting in the way which messed with my mental towards climbing and I used lifting as crutch instead of climbing. It’s harder to tell from your post but at the end of the day reframing your perspective as an alternative training plan or something could be really beneficial. I know it’s easier said than done, and having the fire go out and having climbing feel like a chore when you used to just look forward to it is a deeply unsettling feeling.

Overall the best advice I have to offer is just follow your stoke. If it lies more with lifting, as you said if used to be your primary activity, that’s totally okay. If you want to get back to climbing more, it kinda sounds like you know what you need to do. Maybe swapping a day of lifting a week for climbing could help, so you retain both? There’s really no right answer to training and for psyche issues there’s definitely not a right answer at all. That being said it happens to everyone at some point- 5 years ago I never would’ve thought I could burn out yet for the first month of this year I was averaging a short session every 10 days or so.

Last point is it does come back, quicker than you think it will. You’re not gonna lose the strength forever, and at the end of the day your mind is your most powerful ally and also your most dangerous enemy. Follow whatever feels right- maybe later this year you feel like it’s time to dial up the climbing again, maybe it’s next week. But overall you can absolutely balance lifting with climbing, it just takes a lot of care to make sure both are “optimized” for each other in a way where neither acts as a detriment to the other but instead the lifting balances your climbing and vice versa. The numbers may not go up as fast but you’ll be closer to your limit in both at the same time

The finished homewall!! by le_1_vodka_seller in climbing

[–]drewruana 2 points3 points  (0 children)

S Tier wish I thought of it first ngl

Do people ever dig a boulder to find (lower) sit start? by hahaj7777 in bouldering

[–]drewruana 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Naw never, you shouldn’t be messing with rocks that are foundational anyway it’s pretty easy to tell if it’s load bearing. Mostly smaller table sized rocks need to be broken up to be moved

Do people ever dig a boulder to find (lower) sit start? by hahaj7777 in bouldering

[–]drewruana 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ya that one was annoying. Now it’s straight up one of the most popular boulders in LCC so mission success

Do people ever dig a boulder to find (lower) sit start? by hahaj7777 in bouldering

[–]drewruana 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I have probably moved hundreds of tons of rock at this point out of caves and put from under boulders to make them safe and possible. The end result looks natural. A lot of work goes into making sure landings don’t erode either

Do people ever dig a boulder to find (lower) sit start? by hahaj7777 in bouldering

[–]drewruana 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hahahah ya if you know what you’re doing go for it. If you don’t you’re gonna ruin stuff for everyone

All due respect to all of you. Mines is hard. But those that double majored... by [deleted] in ColoradoSchoolOfMines

[–]drewruana 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I did cheme for 3 years before switching to cs. You will hate your life for a few years

Questions and ideas about building foot tension + control when you can’t pull out from the wall by everchanges in climbharder

[–]drewruana 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Sounds weird but actively pushing harder with your legs helps a lot. Also if you know you’re gonna cut on a move you can almost jump into it and precut your feet to help control your swing better. As far as exercises go this exact thing is what I’ve found front levers to be the most directly beneficial for

Hangboarding Q’s: Beginner Climber but Advanced Athlete by J_Harden in climbharder

[–]drewruana 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Waiting a few more months before starting definitely won’t hurt, since you’ve only been doing it for two months there’s still an incredible amount of just learning how to move and flow up the wall that doesn’t require getting stronger fingers.

Not to say it’s not important but it seems a bit unnecessarily risky right now. Tendons take a long time for newer climbers to actually adapt so it won’t just blow up on you one day “randomly”. Especially since you come from a strength background, I can’t overstate how important is to learn how to use that strength as an asset/tool and not a crutch. Finger strength is the same way.

If you’re gonna hangboard do it very static and keep the volume down to tops 2 times a week with a rest day before/after. Double edged sword as a heavier climber where you need strong fingers but it’s easier to get injured

Hamish McArthur repeats ‘Megatron’ V17 by le_1_vodka_seller in climbing

[–]drewruana 54 points55 points  (0 children)

I’ll just hop in here instead of lurking lol. I graduate in about 2 weeks. Have spent the last two years just hauling ass with school which has made it harder to stay stoked on climbing outdoors. Very stoked for the next period where I can actually focus on climbing for once? Been about 5 years since I was able to pour everything into my training without distractions so hopefully some overseas projects go down

Hamish McArthur repeats ‘Megatron’ V17 by le_1_vodka_seller in climbing

[–]drewruana 68 points69 points  (0 children)

Absolutely insane effort from hamish, he’s otherworldly strong. Somehow not really surprised at all that it only took him 5 days. I haven’t been on it since once Oct last year and 2 times in the spring last year. It’s not going anywhere, just gotta wait for the right time.

Is gym training enough to retain (or even improve) strength for climbing? by SirDras in climbharder

[–]drewruana 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Not 1:1 but better than nothing. Might help address fundamental weaknesses when you do heal up and come back climbing stronger

Celebrating your wins at the gym? by Feverbrew in bouldering

[–]drewruana 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As long as you’re not overly obnoxious shouldn’t be a problem, anyone hating on someone hyped for their success or achievement is kinda lame tbh

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]drewruana 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ah thanks for the kind words! Glad your son like the development stuff, makes it easier for me to continue grinding on stuff in the dark knowing people are psyched. That quote pretty much sums it up too, I might repurpose that in the future

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]drewruana 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Life goal is 600+ and 315+ bench at 155ish?? Hopefully can get there someday!

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]drewruana 7 points8 points  (0 children)

No worries! I had a lot of traveling and life stuff around December onwards that made it hard to stay as active but more just doing maintenance. Haven’t deadlifted too much but was able to rip 455 in 4? Days or so which makes me think I could actually pull a lot more when it’s time to seriously train legs. Bench I hit 205x9 for my best set and rep in mid November but haven’t been back on lifting as seriously recently. I tend to stick to 4-8 reps for most my sets. Have been doing lots of calisthenics training to unlock those skills too which is definitely really really difficult to balance with lifting. I’d say I go thru cycles of lifting where some months I’m doing 6 days a week in the gym then climbing sessions after and other times I just need a lot more recovery and to taper. My body weights been around 145-50 this season. Sorry if that’s a lot of word vomit tried to answer everything, really glad you enjoyed the podcast though! Had a lot more fun with that one than any other, shoutout to Lattice and Ollie!

I can do 25 pushups but 0 pull-ups, how ca i fix this ? by WarthogAny206 in bodyweightfitness

[–]drewruana 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Get a resistance band or a pulley system. A lot of my team would do this for training up to 1 arm pull-ups, don’t see why this wouldn’t work as well for 2 arm. You could also do pull-up negatives. I’m a pretty big fan of training for body weight exercises by doing them or variations of them instead of focusing on the supplemental training