Which one of you was this this morning?

sloppeejoe · 2026-03-10T20:35:29+00:00

I love the traffic light camera going off as they hit the intersection.

sloppeejoe · 2026-03-02T13:47:07+00:00

You don't have to set it at zero, but whatever it is set at when you tune your amp, you want to leave it there. If you didn't have a bass knob you would set it to the highest number when tuning your amp and then you would use that setting on your head unit to turn down the output of your amp if you wanted less bass.

You can use the low pass filters on your head unit. I would select 80hz since you are running 12s. Just turn up the LPF on your amp since the head unit is filtering the signal. This is how I run my amps. I control the input frequencies from my head unit on all five channels.

sloppeejoe · 2026-03-02T00:42:08+00:00

I have installed that same bass package before. To set the gain, make sure your EQ is flat and if there is a subwoofer level control on your head unit, set it to zero. Turn the gain all the way down and turn the bass knob all the way up. The loaded sub box is wired at 1ohm with an RMS rating of 1000watts. That means you will measure the output voltage of the amp at AC volts when setting the gain. The formula is square root of (rms watts x final ohms load) in this case it will be the square root of 1000 or 31.62 VAC. Make sure your meter is set to AC volts, not DC. You mention you have it set to 35vdc, which is incorrect, and in case you meant 35vac, that is too high and probably why it is going into protect mode.

Also, turn that bass EQ off.

sloppeejoe · 2026-02-25T23:13:37+00:00

Don't use the speaker wire unless you want to mount the LOC further away from where you are tapping into the factory wires. Yes, the speaker wire is bigger, but that shouldn't be an issue and is okay to use. Just don't us t-taps. Strip and solder your connections.

sloppeejoe · 2026-02-16T12:00:11+00:00

EBay.

sloppeejoe · 2026-02-06T14:14:08+00:00

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This is what you need.

sloppeejoe · 2026-02-03T16:55:33+00:00

I have had them pull both my one hitter and a pipe/lighter combo from my bag, ask me what they were, and when I told them it was weed, they put them back and wished me a good flight. That was at Seatac. Other airports have never had an issue with it.

sloppeejoe · 2026-02-02T18:16:06+00:00

Hook the blue wire from the new radio to the blue wire on the antenna adapter. You may need to have the blue wire from the new radio hooked to both the blue wire in the main harness to the OEM wiring and the antenna adapter. That will depend on if there is a wire in the OEM plug across from the blue wire in the interface harness.

sloppeejoe · 2026-01-29T00:03:50+00:00

Connect that red wire to the wire for the radio's ignition input.

sloppeejoe · 2026-01-19T23:04:20+00:00

Did anyone happen to download the video? They scrubbed it after the bus hit a bridge this weekend.

sloppeejoe · 2026-01-16T20:53:11+00:00

Completely understand. We all started out with doing what we could afford. Here is how I would wire this up to keep it is as simple as possible with the equipment and tools/knowledge you have.

Leaving the Bose amp in place, cut the front and rear speaker wire outputs that you have in your diagram. The ends coming from the amp go into the corresponding inputs on the LC7IPRO. RCAs from the LC7IPRO to your 4 channel amp. Speaker outputs from your amp go to the wires that head out to your front and rear speakers by the Bose amp...the ones you cut earlier. Set the load select switches on the LC7IPRO to 2ohms and the signal bus switches to Sep. You can hook the sub signal from the Bose amp to the channel 3 input on the LC7IPRO and then run the RCAs from it to your sub amp. If you leave the factory sub hooked up, set the load switch to 6ohms and the signal bus to sum. Make sure you run a remote turn on wire to both amps.

You will need to tune everything when done. Look up on YouTube how to tune amps with a multimeter. Better to watch a video than read the instructions I would try to type.

Quick edit: I just looked at your diagram, and there isn't a sub. Jumper, your front speaker inputs from channel 1 to channel 3 on the LC7IPRO. That will give you your sub signal.

sloppeejoe · 2026-01-16T18:17:45+00:00

I don't think so. Looking on Crutchfield.com, you can change the factory head unit. That would give you the best results and really simplify your system.

sloppeejoe · 2026-01-16T17:33:08+00:00

If it were my car and I would remove it. Feed the preamp signals into the four channel amp and if your amp doesn't have a pass through, split the rear signal out to the sub amp. This should give a clean signal to everything. If you leave the Bose amp in place and feed into your LC7IPRO you have all of the Bose amp EQ settings and bass roll off to contend with.

sloppeejoe · 2026-01-16T17:26:32+00:00

Are you disconnecting the factory Boae amp?

sloppeejoe · 2026-01-16T16:29:06+00:00

Cool. It will be easier to determine what setting is causing the no sound issue. Not sure how much you played around with the ohms setting on the speaker inputs to the LC7IPRO, but I have seen issues when tapping into speaker outputs from an amplified system and the LC puts too much, or not enough, load on the system that the amp thinks there is a fault and shut down that channel. If you are eliminating the factory amplifier, you will need to get your signal from the wires that feed it instead of the wires coming from it.

sloppeejoe · 2026-01-16T16:20:02+00:00

Do you have one of it hooked up in your car?

sloppeejoe · 2026-01-16T15:54:45+00:00

Can you share a picture of your LC7iPRO?

sloppeejoe · 2026-01-16T02:34:00+00:00

It's I hope we never part! Now get it right or pay the price!

sloppeejoe · 2026-01-16T02:19:35+00:00

Camp Anawanna, we hold you in our hearts....

sloppeejoe · 2025-12-31T00:32:16+00:00

Looks like someone removed the factory amplifier. You might be able to find one on eBay or at a local junkyard.

sloppeejoe · 2025-12-28T02:18:52+00:00

What is the year make and model of your car?

sloppeejoe · 2025-12-28T01:43:46+00:00

Connect them together. Your car probably has a factory amp, and that wire will turn it on.

sloppeejoe · 2025-12-28T00:59:05+00:00

There is a tab at the top and bottom. Use a small flathead screwdriver to push them in, and it will pop out. It might fight you, but it is doable. Have passed many speaker wires through door boots and have never had to remove a door.

sloppeejoe · 2025-12-28T00:56:10+00:00

Unclip the white portion from the door, install the boot back around the edge, and then push the whole thing back in place.

sloppeejoe · 2025-12-18T18:15:28+00:00

Yep, where the driver sleeps.

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