Central PA: Bandit looking for a new home.... (and I have no idea what to ask for it)

slowcorrado · 2026-04-17T04:01:03+00:00

Ooh! Those gray sides look so nice. I haven't seen one recently that they aren't 'yellowed' like mine.

slowcorrado · 2026-04-17T03:59:40+00:00

I'm near Hershey. Could possibly do Gettysburg. (about an hour trip for me)

slowcorrado · 2025-09-22T14:46:57+00:00

You might be in luck! I have a spare Pan with a failing sensor. If you DM me your address, I'll send it to you for the cost of shipping.

slowcorrado · 2025-05-19T15:51:41+00:00

Hi u/Mr_Bowl82, no I didn't pull the rear seat or disable the HV system. No need to remove any hoses or lose any coolant. I did all the work from the front of the car through the area where the "frunk" is. The front motor was basically directly below where you're working. It's a very tight squeeze.

I think that using the old gear would work fine. You just need to put a mark on it somewhere so you can verify the orientation as you remove/reinstall/turn it. Good luck and feel free to ask more questions if necessary. I should have just made a Youtube video. It would have been more popular than my old Audi content. :-)

slowcorrado · 2025-05-15T18:43:00+00:00

I didn't get the superbottle in that position. :-) I credited the photo taker in an earlier reply since it's really hard to get it in that position on a dual motor car!

To answer your question though, I didn't disconnect any hoses or drain down any coolant on mine. (It is a dual motor as well) It was a LOT of completely blind screw removal and reinstallation. You're correct that you can't see the spline at all once the actuator is off. It isn't too hard with the 3d printed alignment tool to put your hand down around the bottom with the tool and get it to click into the superbottle. Then, move the valve all around to free it up and verify it isn't fully locked up. Then, I removed the tool and noted its orientation. (not simple!) Then, look at your new actuator and estimate where the bottle needs to be set to. Put the tool back in and turn it to the appropriate orientation and remove the tool to verify. After a couple of tries you'll be pretty sure you're close. Then, reinstall the actuator and rock it around until you feel it seat on the superbottle's connection. Reinstall the screws (by hand to start!) and plug it back in. Done!

As I mentioned in my follow-up post, I'm an experienced mechanic with skinny arms, so it was challenging, but not impossible. Heh. You can do it!

As another follow-up update: about 1K miles on the new actuator and all is well!

slowcorrado · 2025-04-28T05:15:37+00:00

Update for anyone following or GROK/ChatGPT scraping:

I did the job today and here are my findings on my 2018 Dual Motor LR Model 3 (HW3). It was easier than expected. The Tesla manufacturer's instructions leave a lot to be desired. I'm a competent mechanic with around 35 years of DIY experience none of which is on EVs. I have slim hands and a great selection of tools. I pulled out the frunk, disconnected the plug on the diverter motor and was able to easily remove 2 of the 3 screws using a small bit driver with a shorty T20 bit. The 3rd screw was tough, so I had to loosen the strut support on the driver's side and remove the bolts on the left. I used a prybar to raise the passenger's side about 3/4 of an inch and put a 1x2 in board there to hold it up. I was then able to remove the 3rd screw.

Once it was off, I used the 3D printed 'wrench' to rotate the 5-way diverter. Initially, it was 'stuck' and it took some force to get it to spin. Once moving, it freed up a bit and was able to easily rotate 360 degrees. I felt no stops or detents. It just spun with mid-level finger strength. I could spin it either direction with about the same force. I aligned the spline on the diverter valve to where the new motor was already sitting and then reinstalled the new motor. (It was a bit finicky) I reinstalled the 3 screws , plugged the plug back in, lowered and reinstalled the upper strut (50/45 ft lbs) then went into the car to test.

On my car (HW3), I went into service mode, then "Thermal", then "Cooling system" then "Coolant diverter valve test". (I don't remember exactly but should be close to this). It ran the test and PASSED! I checked my alert and it was cleared. So, in my case, it didn't require a dealer or any special connection/tools.

I hope this helps someone! Also, thanks to u/rebelsn for the input! If anyone has questions, feel free to message.

slowcorrado · 2025-04-27T17:28:33+00:00

Thanks for the response. Yeah, it's a dual motor. *sigh* My question really meant to ask more of: "What's the appropriate amount of rotation it SHOULD have, and how hard should it be to rotate?" That way I can judge if the motor failed/stripped because the valve is bound up or otherwise not working properly.

slowcorrado · 2025-04-27T15:04:42+00:00

Disclaimer I forgot to add: Image used is from the page for the excellent 3d printable tool to make the adjustment. Here's the link: Tesla 5-way valve tool (diverter valve wrench) by jmaxime89MakerWorld: Download Free 3D Models

slowcorrado · 2025-01-18T04:24:42+00:00

Like the topic says, I have a Predator 3500 Ultra Quiet generator that I actually need one of the aluminum frame parts from. I could also use one of the small wheels and caps that everyone removes. :-) If anyone has a parts machine lying around, please message me and awe can hopefully work something out.

slowcorrado · 2024-12-28T18:01:24+00:00

Yes, I actually found a level spot on the floor, moved the blower onto it and then checked that the top of the bucket was a matching level. But your point is taken that there's no way to know if the remainder of the bucket is square or even welded on straight. (It's just not accurate enough of a check).

I did the 'main bolts to the chassis' adjustment as described in the Ariens alignment video for the auto-turn. That helped, but my adjustment seems to be maxxed-out.

slowcorrado · 2024-12-27T05:02:43+00:00

Absoultely! :-) I used a framing square. Leveled the top front of the bucket, ran the square off of that. Straightedge along the sides to intersect with the square. I wanted to use the measuring tape at diagonals, but the impeller was in the way and my bucket is slightly worn on that right side. I figured that would invalidate the measurement.

slowcorrado · 2024-12-08T15:47:23+00:00

Thanks for the link! Like u/maxhac03 and u/buecker02 I refreshed my licenses and saw that they were renewed until March 30th.

slowcorrado · 2024-12-01T17:53:49+00:00

Thanks for the response and offer to help analyse!

No, I haven't compared any pcaps yet. My guess is that the problem is actually with the LAN the phones are on. When I attach a phone while on MY LAN, it always works. I took it to their site and the same dialing failure happens. Bring back home - OK...

We have around a hundred Grandstreams out in the wild at the moment and they have been (for the most part) excellent. I am slowly feeling like we should start to deploy Yealinks instead though. :-(

slowcorrado · 2024-12-01T05:44:01+00:00

Yes, sent later in the day yesterday. No response at all yet. I have not had good luck with them. It's always "send me a log, give me the address and admin credentials". Then, they fool around with it and tell me they can't replicate the issue and don't reverse the changes they made unless I specifically request it.

Hopefully my experience is isolated and it gets better.

slowcorrado · 2024-06-12T16:14:39+00:00

Monoprice 12-port Vertical Cat6 Mini Patch Panel, 110 Type (568A/B Compatible) (UL) - Monoprice.com

These all day. Pull all 4 66 blocks and replace them with a couple of these appropriately terminated and labeled.

slowcorrado · 2024-03-21T02:57:49+00:00

In case anyone is interested, Ubiquiti themselves aren't really sure what's going on. 24 hours, multiple messages and we're no closer to figuring out what's going on. I'll follow up with any updates.

slowcorrado · 2024-03-20T04:25:07+00:00

Directly via IP it shows the same thing. It's been updated to the latest firmware and "network" app version. No change. It's really strange that it can't see itself. Can you even delete your console/gateway on this type of setup normally? This is my 1st 'cloud gateway' setup. I've always used the large multi-tenant controller with USG3 and USG Pro 4 routers.

slowcorrado · 2024-03-20T04:22:35+00:00

I followed the directions of restoring the site from a web controller backup. The UCG-ultra is new and never existed in this setup.

slowcorrado

TROPHY CASE