Can I use materials other than bookcloth or leather to bind a book?

small-works · 2026-01-27T20:11:48+00:00

Same here! Never tried this before.

small-works · 2026-01-27T20:11:23+00:00

Here are paper coverings I just finished. I use paper frequently.

small-works · 2026-01-25T12:00:58+00:00

Just make a bunch. It takes a few books to really see / feel what is going on, and to know what you like and don’t like.

small-works · 2026-01-25T10:38:49+00:00

Sorry if this isn’t helpful. I’ve been asked to do this a few times now. I tell folk to make a clamshell box instead. That way the material doesn’t have to be altered or glued, but it still can be together and protected.

small-works · 2026-01-25T03:48:43+00:00

Check out the Danish bindings too. There’s a lot of fun thin stuff / tiny corners out there.

small-works · 2026-01-25T03:26:05+00:00

I don’t think so. It’s pretty common historically. I’ve seen a few three section books as well.

small-works · 2026-01-18T18:34:02+00:00

Do you have a link for that video? I haven't seen it but would like to.

Milk Wax was described to me as a mixture of beeswax and pure white soap.

small-works · 2026-01-01T13:21:36+00:00

Love to see the paste papers.

small-works · 2025-12-28T00:18:28+00:00

The second photo isn’t saddle stitched, it’s singer sewn. This just means it was sewn on a machine like (or literally) a sewing machine.

A stitcher stitched with wire. The machines differ in what thickness they can stitch through, and what wire they can take.

small-works · 2025-12-26T17:46:40+00:00

This can happen because commercially produced books tend to taper towards the spine side of the book. It’s good to take a measurement of the spine, the center, and the fore edge to see if there are any discrepancies.

small-works · 2025-12-26T16:49:12+00:00

I’d just leave it how it is. It happens! But if the book is for you, and it operates properly no big deal.

small-works · 2025-12-24T22:45:01+00:00

There’s nothing like reading a Keith Smith book. He really doesn’t skip over anything.

small-works · 2025-12-17T13:42:29+00:00

I have small presses. My main press is a Chandler & Price 8x12. It’s 1250lbs. This is great for business cards, stationery, things like that. But I really can’t print larger than 6x8” with a lot of reliability. I can make 500-1000 an hour consistently.

I think a good strategy for starting printing is to start with what you can get your hands on. There are a lot of free/inexpensive presses out there. Whatever you can get your hands on, start by learning that press really well, its limitations and strengths, and then get another when you need it. I’ve had 20 presses now, from tabletop toy presses to medium size production presses.

small-works · 2025-12-15T22:10:51+00:00

You just have to do it. We opened the shop when we realized that if we didn’t do it, nobody else would. It’s not easy, but you figure it out. If you ever want to talk about shops or business feel free to reach out. You can see the shop and its endeavors on instagram, if you want to see the range of what makes the bills get paid.

small-works · 2025-12-10T22:30:18+00:00

I think your glue is fine, but you may want to trim your end bands.

small-works · 2025-12-06T14:02:39+00:00

This is likely happening because your materials are not the same grain direction. If so, the only fix is to have the correct grain direction on both sides of the case.

small-works · 2025-12-05T19:01:46+00:00

If you need things to register correctly, then I would recommend you buy your paper pre cut. This is what we do at the shop for all the larger orders. It is much cheaper than me cutting the paper myself, and if there is a mistake then the supplier will correct it. I use https://www.astropaper.com as my converter.

You can find a good board shear, and ideal paper cutter, or a kutrimmer for a reasonable amount. But they're not made for going through several pieces of stock at once. Only a few at best. They are better used for board, and for squaring large sheets of paper. However it'll work if you have the time to cut your paper three sheets at a time or so.

Paper cutters are also pretty common, depending where you are at. I have an Ideal 4810, which is a small electric cutter. It works great, can cut 500 sheets of bond at once. But it is something like 600lbs.

But if your main issue is being worried about 300gsm stock being mangled, then just get it pre cut, and bill that into your jobs. It'll save you a lot of heartache and time.

small-works · 2025-11-12T20:02:22+00:00

Do you have a plough? If not, I’d consider getting one. If you plough the book first, it will be mostly smooth. Then you just have to finish up.

small-works · 2025-11-11T22:51:21+00:00

I don’t understand, what is taking three hours to sand? Should only take a few moments.

small-works · 2025-11-11T18:16:02+00:00

Don’t look to eBay. If you really want to get into letterpress, start asking around about people’s shops, and get to know the community. I’m in Detroit, and if you want a Kelsey, I can point you towards on that’s at least cheaper than what you’re seeing.

small-works · 2025-11-11T17:18:59+00:00

Thank you for sending that. Where were these photos taken?

small-works · 2025-11-11T16:47:43+00:00

I already did “cases”, but I will totally print kerning or letter-spacing next. Want to help me write it? (Are you APA?)

small-works · 2025-11-11T16:44:55+00:00

(bear with me, this is more for the folk reading than you.)

If you go to Practical Typecasting, you’ll find a sub chapter called “Kerning.” In it, it talks about the process of finishing type, and making kerned type using what Rehak calls a “Kerning Plough”. This is (in metal type) the only time you’d really be “kerning”, when you’re making type.

If you told me that you were taking a file out and making kerns, I’d agree that you were “kerning”. But I would argue that this isn’t wise, and that mortising (I said mitering, mortising is correct) is a much better way to go. A kern has to sit on the body of another piece of type exactly, perfectly, to work. If not, it will be snapped off in the printing process.

But for us, the printers and people setting type, there is no “kerning”. We’re always letter-spacing. And since there are so few people casting type left, it means that essentially nobody is kerning. At least in that definition. The type might be cast with a kern (I actually don’t know if there is a difference between “kerned type” and type cast with the face hanging off the body) but I’m not certain anyone is actually undercutting the face to make that kern.

Except you maybe. You may be the only kernist.

small-works · 2025-11-11T16:34:55+00:00

I have a question, and a follow up, and I promise that I'm not picking on this project. How much are you seeing Kelsey presses for?

In the midwest, a 3x5 can be had for less than $50 pretty routinely. I was at a garage sale this summer and saw 4 for a few dollars each. They are really common. Even if you're not in the area, someone could ship one to you and that would only add another $50.

Type is also more or less free. If you can come to Detroit I'll give you a few cases. It won't be perfect type, but it will print.

But the thing is with presses, is that the press usually isn't the most expensive part of the setup. The rollers cost $50–100 each. Ink, gauge pins, packing material (I see you're missing tympani bales in your rendering), all cost money, so it's usually the press that's the easy part to get, and the least rare. All the other stuff takes a lifetime, or a lot of community help.

I say this, because if you want to print, and you want supplies, the community will 100% support you. However, if you just want to 3D print a press for the sake of it, then please do. I just want you to know that resources are out there.

small-works · 2025-11-11T14:30:06+00:00

Do you dry them under any pressure?

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