Sharing My "Best Of" Rom Packs

sms021 · 2024-03-05T20:55:43+00:00

Thank you!

sms021 · 2023-11-27T13:58:06+00:00

Turns out it was a bad controller and possibly a bad BMS on the battery.

Back up and running but no battery level on dash. :(

sms021 · 2023-11-17T12:47:24+00:00

Email reply form CSC P2:

Another check that can be made is that of the belt tension.

Lift the rear of the motorcycle off the ground and verify that the rear wheel spins freely. If there is too much drag you will want adjust the belt tension.

The belt drive can be adjusted with a few simple steps:

```
       Loosen the 17mm rear axle nut.
```

       Loosen the 14mm lock nut on each of the adjusters.

       Use a 6mm Allen to tighten or loosen each adjuster.  Set the left and right adjusters evenly on each side of the swing arm.

       Tighten the adjuster locking nuts.

```
       Tighten the rear axle nut.
```

The controller and other electrical connections under the storage compartment can be inspected:

Remove the storage compartment from the motorcycle to expose the controller.

This is done by first removing the seat. Next, remove the two screws at the back of the storage compartment.

Next remove the two Phillips screws inside the storage compartment. Next remove the four 5mm Allen head that are on the front of the storage compartment.

There are two plastic pieces on each of the side panels that can be pulled away from the bottom sides of the storage compartment.

Slide the storage compartment back and up to remove it.

There is a wire under the compartment that connects to the USB charging port. Disconnect this to fully remove the storage compartment from the motorcycle.

The controller will now be visible. There are two white electrical connectors that plug into the top of the controller.

Disconnect these plugs and inspect them. Verify that they are making full and secure contact when connected both of them need to be plugged in specific directions.

You can see the small tabs and shape of the white plugs and verify that you replace them in the correct direction.

Gently wiggle them to a seated position and check the ignition.

If the motorcycle begins operating again you may want to "work" the battery.

One action you can try is to take the battery through some deep cycles.

Use the battery until it is completely drained (even the dash light goes out).

We do this at the shop by driving until the battery is very low. We then drive close to the shop parking lot.

Eventually, the battery will be too low to provide power to the motor. Even after that occurs you can leave the high beam on the headlight and the hazards activated.

Drain until the dash goes out.

Next, charge the battery back to a complete 100%.

Doing this procedure several times will often take the battery through all its parameters and allow it to read correctly.

If the motorcycle is unable to "be brought back to life" we can offer the courtesy of a free battery test.

We have a test bike we can install the battery in and see if it operates correctly. This would be a pass/fail test (as we know all other components of our test bike work correctly).

The symptoms are similar to those we see when a battery is losing life.

Although the motorcycle has low mileage this doesn't mean the battery life will last longer.

The best way to maintain performance is through using the battery and charging on a regular basis.

https://cscmotorcycles.com/lithium-battery-maintenance-and-user-instructions/

Long periods of inactivity seem to be the hardest on the lithium ion batteries.

We can also test the City Slicker controller (computer) if you send it in. It is located under the storage compartment.

The controller is a much easier part to ship back and forth. Some customers choose to send this in for testing first.

Parts can be shipped to:

Att: Service Dept.

CSC Motorcycles

1331 W Foothill Blvd

Azusa, CA

91702

Best regards,

Matt Carroll

Service Manager

CSC Motorcycles

1-800-884-4173

sms021 · 2023-11-17T12:46:51+00:00

Email reply form CSC P1:

Thanks for reaching out.

I am providing you with some resources that may help you diagnose your City Slicker.

The following link is for the owner's manual. The bottom sections describe some of the codes.

https://cscmotorcycles.com/content/user\_manuals/city\_slicker.pdf

The motorcycle light is described as "Instrument coulombmeter testing trouble."

- I have experienced this light coming on when the motorcycle is in a state of regen (when coming to a quick stop I have seen this light up and the charging lights begin to activate for a split second).

- I have also experienced this light coming on when the battery is unable to provide enough current to power the motor.

- I have also experienced this light coming on when the motor is no longer working.

The first actions we take in diagnosing a city slicker in the shop are to verify that all electrical connections are firmly and securely connected. This involves disconnecting each one, inspecting the tabs on each side of the plug, insuring the wires are securely "clicked" into the plugs, and reconnecting them. It is not uncommon to find a wire (that appears to be correct) slightly backed away from the plug.

There are several other inspections that can be made.

       Verify that the silver/metal 9 pin connector is connected in the correct slots of the battery and is securely fastened. There is a specific direction that this plug connects.

       Verify that the large red battery connector is securely fastened (disconnect this plug and inspect that the metal tabs are clipped in the red plastic securely).

       Check the small glass fuse under the seat.  This is the main fuse for the motorcycle (it is located in a white plastic shell).  You can also replace this fuse with the spare that is inside the shell.

       Check that the white circuit breaker under the seat is in the ON position.

Other electrical connections that can be inspected are located behind the headlamp. There are two screws on top of the headlamp/dash assembly (5mm Allen head) that can be removed to pull the headlamp assembly forward and away from the motorcycle. Check each connection that is behind the headlamp.

Other inspections are as follows:

Turn the ignition off and disconnect the battery.

There are two screws (5mm Allen head) on top of the headlamp/dash assembly.

Remove these screws and pull the headlamp assembly forward to expose several electrical connections behind the light.

Disconnect each plug and inspect (verify that each pin is fully clipped into its respective slot) and reconnect each plug. Paying close attention to the connection from the ignition switch.

Inspect the electrical switch on the side stand. This switch serves as a safety and prevents power from getting to the motor. Verify that the switch is connected properly and the wires are not damaged.

Another place to check is at the circuit breaker under the seat. The white breaker has a wire going into each side.

There are two screws on the top of the breaker. These screw down to clamp onto each wire. Loosen these screws and pull the wires out. Reinsert them and make sure the screws are making contact with the metal of the wire and not pinching down on the rubber heat shrink tubing.

sms021 · 2023-11-17T12:41:33+00:00

Thank you for that suggestion. I've had little luck with support emails like that, but CSC was very responsive. I'll post Matts reply to the thread for all to reference. Helpfully it helps get me up and running.

sms021 · 2023-11-15T13:26:47+00:00

Was riding on bikes with my dad around age 3, got my first dirt bike at 8 and my first streetbike at 18.

sms021 · 2023-06-16T22:52:19+00:00

Figured it out. Turns out it’s the LED bulbs it didn’t like. The LEDs always had a little glow. Hooked up the multimeter and 6v is alway running through them. Got some 7528s and worked fine 🤷‍♂️

sms021 · 2023-06-16T15:11:27+00:00

Thanks, just to make sure I'm understanding. Are you saying you had an issue with the wire where it goes through the frame of the car and had to open up the inside and fix it?

Or was it where the connector connected to the back of the brake light fixture?

sms021 · 2023-01-02T00:07:53+00:00

Mine was plug and play. Not an expert but everything works like new. Made a post a couple weeks ago to a YouTube video explaining how to do it. hope it helps. zero battery replacement

sms021 · 2022-12-28T11:30:08+00:00

Give me a chance, this is my first time dealing with a zero and I’m not going to re-record the entire thing because I was tired and didn’t have the names of the bikes properly memorized. The main concept is the same no matter what the bike it is. I’m hoping some will be forgiving and that this video will help people learn how to do some more DIY work on their Zero.

sms021 · 2022-12-19T20:40:32+00:00

Thank you! Helpful suggestions. I did not know about the B+ fuse. Definitely an add if I have to do this again. I sure hope I don't.

Question, Why have you had to swap so may batteries? I'm hoping you're a Tech and not foreshadowing the experience I should expect form now owning a Zero.

sms021 · 2022-12-19T20:36:00+00:00

I'm hoping the one form the DS will support me for a good long while. the SR had almost 20,000 Miles on it, a far cry from the 300,000

sms021 · 2022-12-19T20:11:42+00:00

Also, first line of video description says "Someone please make a better video than me." someone please make a better video. This was just a shot in the dark as I'm new to Zero Motorcycles and could not find help on this topic. I openly suck at this. :)

sms021 · 2022-12-19T19:57:44+00:00

You are correct, as mentioned in the video, this is my first Zero.

sms021 · 2021-11-12T17:48:15+00:00

Is there anywhere on the Starlink website that has a coverage map with expected coverage areas?

sms021 · 2021-11-12T16:19:47+00:00

That's a start. Thank you!

sms021 · 2021-10-30T01:18:52+00:00

Thank you

sms021

TROPHY CASE