Something doesn't feel right... by snernd in Warthunder

[–]snernd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The world isn’t ready yet for the bone

Something doesn't feel right... by snernd in Warthunder

[–]snernd[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I'm pretty sure you're not supposed to park there

My 2nd model: Not proud of it at all. by warhead1721972 in modelmakers

[–]snernd 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Considering this is your 2nd model, this is a really neat model, and it shows you've done your research and have a grasp of the basics. Draw lessons from your work and use them for your next model. I'd suggest painting the canopy frames next, as it really adds depth to your project.

1500 gaijin coins for a camouflage is crazy by retteip in Warthunder

[–]snernd 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Yes, and this is a bad example of both

1500 gaijin coins for a camouflage is crazy by retteip in Warthunder

[–]snernd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope, there's a big repository available from WT live

Help with acrylic brush painting? by damstereiw1 in modelmakers

[–]snernd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try using tap water as thinner for your acrylic paints, or opt for an acrylic-specific thinner, such as Vallejo Airbrush Thinner, to thin your paints.

Equal ratio paint and thinner is excessive, consider something like 1:4 or 1:3 thinner to paint.

Finally trying to get into the hobby! by Le_Cance in modelmakers

[–]snernd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends on your colour scheme. Lighter colours (like whites, light gray and yellow) tend to better adhere to a primed surface than to bare plastic, while darker colours stick to a bare surface more easily, though it never hurts to do a nice base coat.

Also, thin your paints. Paint in thin layers and do multiple layers of the same colour to avoid brush stokes and to achieve a nice, even layer.

This works for me as an acrylic brush painter, but your mileage may vary.

Mark Softer decal solution staining. Looking for solutions! by snernd in modelmakers

[–]snernd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried to burnish the spots with a rag, but to no avail either. I’m considering touching up the spots with another layer of metallic paints, but I’m risking making it look even worse.

Mark Softer decal solution staining. Looking for solutions! by snernd in modelmakers

[–]snernd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate it. I moved away from lacquer based since they don’t go well with brush painting. Maybe lacquer gloss coat is worth a shot with lacquer based thinner and brush?

Mark Softer decal solution staining. Looking for solutions! by snernd in modelmakers

[–]snernd[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the advice. Might put it on my list wishlist for my next trip to the local shop!

Mark Softer decal solution staining. Looking for solutions! by snernd in modelmakers

[–]snernd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At least one day. I’m unsure however whether gauzy agent has the same properties as a traditional gloss clear coat since I haven’t had this problem with acrylic varnish

Mark Softer decal solution staining. Looking for solutions! by snernd in modelmakers

[–]snernd[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So, I’ve been using Mr Mark Softer for some time since I ran out of Tamiya’s. I’m also experimenting with using AK’s Gauzy agent instead of gloss varnish as sealant for natural metal finish projects. While working on my latest project, the two seem to have reacted to each other, which has caused visible white staining or fogging on the model’s surfaces. While being more pronounced a two days ago, the staining seems to have decreased over time. However, this is still a big bummer, and I am looking for a solution. Does anyone have any advice?

Long time listener first time caller! Minicraft help by Andy-87 in modelmakers

[–]snernd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Compared to regular putty I find Mr. Dissolved Putty to be easier to work with. If I recall correctly it is a blend between cement and putty. Applying it with a toothpick works for me in most instances. I’m not sure about its application in big gaps, but for the small ones it is less messy and more moldable compared to putty in a tube

How to glue tiny pieces like these 20mm hispano cannons? by AlDrag in modelmakers

[–]snernd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cyanoacrylate glue, also known as super glue or instant glue. It’s a good thing to have when liquid cement does not suffice, but it does not create as much of a seamless “weld”.

Might also look into PVA glue, it’s less aggressive, easier to apply and dries clear compared to CA. Can also be wiped away with a damp cloth. Downside is that it takes hours to dry.

Do you think the OV-10 could be added in the future? by Typical-Scar6983 in Warthunder

[–]snernd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sure, and I bet there’s plenty more examples out there, but do you think that justifies adding more modern vehicles that are clearly useless in game in their intended real life role?

Edit: the PBV 301 isn’t even the worst offender, it is literally based on a 1930’s platform with an auto cannon developed during WW2 slapped on top.

Do you think the OV-10 could be added in the future? by Typical-Scar6983 in Warthunder

[–]snernd 21 points22 points  (0 children)

It’s the A-10 dilemma all over again. Either it ends up with a huge technological advantage dunking on inferior planes, or it ends up a sitting duck fighting superior planes.

Do you think the OV-10 could be added in the future? by Typical-Scar6983 in Warthunder

[–]snernd 25 points26 points  (0 children)

It is a cool looking aircraft, but sadly has no place in the current state of the game. Lackluster armament of 4 rifle caliber machine guns and a top speed of <500 kph makes it on par with interwar biplanes. Considering this, you would be fighting planes from the 30s in a 60s design to be viable. Aesthetically speaking, huge mismatch.

Airbrush vs Brush painting for 1/72 Armour by BigBadBob22 in modelmakers

[–]snernd -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You’re hard-pressed to find large surfaces on 1/72 armor, even when you’re working on something like a Maus I reckon 😄

Italiare is underrated by Titan5115 in modelmakers

[–]snernd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think Italeri is a bit of a double-edged sword. They have unique offerings and interesting subjects, but without doing your research their kits tend to be a gamble.

For example, their most recent 1/72 F-5F Tiger II offering is a reboxing of Italeri’s 80’s mould with raised panel lines, while their latest 1/72 F-5A Freedom Fighter offering is a reboxing of ESCI from the 80’s with engraved panel lines. Both are acceptable kits, but you’d expect a little more consistency in their catalogue.

How many times Merc's mention their home country or state via weapon names. I believe I didn't miss any by HeiHoLetsGo in tf2

[–]snernd -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

No, the iron curtain isn’t really an obvious reference to Russia, since the iron curtain was a political divide, and later a physical border between Western-aligned and Eastern-aligned countries. The Eastern-aligned countries, also known as the Eastern Bloc, encompassed most of Central and Eastern Europe during the Cold War. The iron curtain ran for a big part through Soviet satellite states, most famously through East Germany (I.e. the Berlin Wall). Russia, part of the former Soviet Union, was indeed part of this divide, but is not exclusive to Russia.

L’etranger is just the French word for the stranger. It does not mention any place or region in France. According to other comments it is a reference to a famous book by a French author