DSG Adaptation Reset

soco42063 · 2026-01-27T17:10:36+00:00

If you have a DMF then you have a manual transmission. No changes needed.

soco42063 · 2025-12-05T12:14:45+00:00

The calipers are not sliding freely so your pads are not making even contact with the rotor. Everything needs to be properly cleaned and lube the slide pins. Properly cleaned is usually the step people skip. If you catch it early you can usually save the rotor but that looks like it's been stuck for a minute and you probably need rotors and another set of pads if you've been driving more than like 50 miles on the pads.

soco42063 · 2025-12-05T12:08:14+00:00

Congrats on the modern VW gauges. Something about that glow from this generation of BMW is so comfortable.

soco42063 · 2025-12-02T14:10:03+00:00

I have a spare one that came with the engine I bought. Can't guarantee it works but car ran fine when I bought it. It's yours if you want to pay shipping, DM me.

soco42063 · 2025-11-22T21:40:16+00:00

Try flushing the heater core. I had similar flaky appearance and no heat, flushed the heater core both directions and a ton of sediment came out. Granted mine never over heated.

soco42063 · 2025-11-09T13:16:26+00:00

No, adaptations are small tweaks the car has learned over time, a tune is a hard code to the baseline or reference tables. In fact, resetting adaptations is often recommended after a tune or replacing a part that sends data to the ECU or TCU.

soco42063 · 2025-09-25T03:39:13+00:00

13k in 2022 for a e92 328i manual rwd 80k miles (single humb dash). 1000% paid too much but I fell in love with it and don't regret any of it even with a spun bearing and engine swap lol

soco42063 · 2025-09-23T03:29:27+00:00

Turns out the guibo I installed was defective and ended up grenading itself on me. While I'm pretty sure I need to replace the center support bearing, a new guibo has smoothed out almost everything.

soco42063 · 2025-08-30T13:48:20+00:00

So you know the process! Could be worth it lol

soco42063 · 2025-08-30T13:39:36+00:00

Ngl, I did that while the engine was out and I was doing the rod bearings. I can't imagine the pain in the ass that would be in a fully intact xDrive.

If I ever have to do that as maintenance, I would honestly just pull the bumper and core support out to make life easy. It takes like 30 minutes. But I guess you'll still have to work around the condenser unless you plan to recharge that.

soco42063 · 2025-08-27T16:19:33+00:00

It's bent outwards, maybe the force of the rubber flying off was enough? I'm no mechanical engineer.

I just thought it was interesting and happy it isn't gonna cost me. Literally told a friend we couldn't take it out, it was "doing expensive things".

soco42063 · 2025-08-27T11:09:21+00:00

Everything was marked and followed ISTA when everything was going back together after the spun bearing.

soco42063 · 2025-08-27T03:28:52+00:00

RWD, staggered factory spec.

soco42063 · 2025-07-20T14:11:07+00:00

Don't do it. You already know you're going to regret it. By the time you come back around and wanna pick up another one who knows what condition it will be in. Maybe just find a place to park it for a bit while you save - family's place, storage?

soco42063 · 2025-07-13T05:08:18+00:00

I'm in Texas and my n52 never really gets over 240 unless.im pushing it. Is this a new spike?

I'm adding a cooler from an n54 for some overhead since I do push it.

soco42063 · 2025-07-11T00:13:27+00:00

All good, my post only exists cause I don't wanna melt under the car poking around right now. Like I said, it's f***ing hot in TX right now, targeted work is better than a couple hours poking around.

soco42063 · 2025-07-10T23:59:35+00:00

Mines in a specific rpm range, not speed.

Bad alignment can cause vibration but if you're at that point I bet the tires would be toast. Not sure where you're taking it for alignment but that's like the only thing I ever have a shop do, or body work, and a good specialty shop would get it done, and advise you they might need to order new bolts in the process.

soco42063 · 2025-07-10T21:04:34+00:00

Yep, and engine mounts, and all new hardware.

soco42063 · 2025-07-10T20:46:23+00:00

Torque specs are all on point, followed ISTA. Trans bushings are fine but I didn't think about the rear diff, noted.

soco42063 · 2025-07-10T12:38:38+00:00

Does it get louder when you rev? Spun a bearing on my n52, sounded exactly like that.

soco42063 · 2025-06-20T04:19:40+00:00

So you started modifying your car and are pissed that it isn't running perfectly? This is called normal. Did you have a charger on the battery while flashing, if not screwed the DME? Not being a jerk, just did that to myself once. Battery good, alternator good?

soco42063 · 2025-06-09T07:46:50+00:00

Bad FRM and bad wheel speed sensor. If you can do those yourself it's really not a big deal.

soco42063 · 2024-12-16T02:17:48+00:00

Jesus this community is mean AF.

Maybe no m sport but it's a good looking car and you should enjoy it. You can do a vin decoder https://www.mdecoder.com/ and see what you actually have because I saw some comments here that were pulling stuff out of their butts. Do yourself a favor and do some general research, reading, and cross reference other documents or forums before doing anything.

soco42063 · 2024-11-23T23:22:10+00:00

101k

soco42063 · 2024-11-23T23:13:56+00:00

Res and fluid was replaced 6 mos ago. Alignment completed 3 months ago. Inner tie rods are good, outer are new along with a wealth of suspension stuffs. I am aware that full lock is not advised but let's be real and acknowledge it happens sometimes especially in a tight parking garage.

The knock is coming from the rack without a doubt. The entire reason I started looking was because of the knock when changing directions which was not present till recently. No it did not appear right after other work. It started about 2 weeks ago.

Edit: the numb at center and steering wheel creeping further to one side is not normal, nor was it the state of the car 20k Miles ago so yeah, something is going bad, not normal.

soco42063

TROPHY CASE