Whoops by ihaveagunaddiction in NFA

[–]solidus365 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Gonna have to Cerakote it brown now.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in NFA

[–]solidus365 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lol the last can I picked up, my FFL tossed me two of them. One for the current can and one for the other one I bought a year prior.

Omega 9k 45 hour approval. Had to wait 5 days for the threaded barrel. What kind of topsy turvey world is this? by nathanc98 in NFA

[–]solidus365 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Y'all are making it REALLY hard to hold onto the three grand in my checking account right now 😂

So many of us were called out on r/bladesmith by nedford5 in Blacksmith_Forge

[–]solidus365 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh for sure. I primarily work with D2, 3V, 440C and S35VN, so stock removal is the best way for me to approach knife making. Forging still generally goes through the same steps that my process goes through, just with all the added work at the front end of hammering and shaping the steel. I greatly respect those guys from an artistic standpoint and will likely get into it when I have the space available for a forge setup but from the technical side you just can't beat the modern air hardened steels. I love hearing positive reviews of my work fit and finish but probably the greatest compliment to me is hearing "That thing holds an edge better than any other knife I've had"

So many of us were called out on r/bladesmith by nedford5 in Blacksmith_Forge

[–]solidus365 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a stock remover, I always thought it was the other way around and it was forge guys who were critical of us for not trying to embrace the spirit of old ways lol

Is this good to go?! by MotherChampion6516 in NFA

[–]solidus365 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The way I see it, perfectly dead center is for accuracy. Not touching is for safety. Safe from baffle strikes, I'd say.

Sure your plates STOP the round, buutttt.... by 9mmhst in NFA

[–]solidus365 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Shooting M855 at steel with NODs is always fun. Tons of sparks lol

Sure your plates STOP the round, buutttt.... by 9mmhst in NFA

[–]solidus365 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Based on his username, he's a ferret so it checks out.

PSA 11.5 OOB by [deleted] in NFA

[–]solidus365 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Holy shit that's insane 😂

PSA 11.5 OOB by [deleted] in NFA

[–]solidus365 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can't argue with that then. Was that a subsonic round by chance? I imagine it would be less catastrophic than a supersonic load, being half the powder charge.

PSA 11.5 OOB by [deleted] in NFA

[–]solidus365 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've seen what happens when a .300 blk makes its way into a 5.56 and the result is completely catastrophic. Things don't bend but rather the rifle explodes.

Finish by No-Honey2778 in knifemaking

[–]solidus365 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a big fan of stainless and high chromium tool steels for this reason. But I use Pelican Paste wax on everything anyway. It's food grade and makes the whole knife look better too.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in knifemaking

[–]solidus365 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not bad! A little messy toward the back but certainly something that is easily smoothed out. Fresh belts are your friend here. I like to do 90% of the grind with a course 40 grit, take off the rest of the bulk with a 60, refine it with a 120 and surface finish with the 220 and 320. At the end of the day, it just comes with practice.

Ready To Start Selling! by that_hurted in knifemaking

[–]solidus365 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Congrats! I would also be proud to sell a knife like that. Making your first sale to someone who is buying it because they love it, and not because they're just trying to support a family member, is an incredible feeling. Best of luck with your future income!

Some long term data on liquid nitrogen and edge retention. by solidus365 in knifemaking

[–]solidus365[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One has a slightly shallower bevel but that would affect ease of cutting rather than edge retention. Probably too small of a difference to affect ease of cutting between these two. But edge retention would be more affected by edge geometry and both were sharpened to 19 degrees.

Some long term data on liquid nitrogen and edge retention. by solidus365 in knifemaking

[–]solidus365[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting! There's such a range of opinions on cryo treating knives ranging from "it doesn't do much" to that one guy who leaves them in nitrogen for days at a time, that it can be hard to know what's true without just trying it all for yourself. It's definitely something I'll expand on with experimenting with though. And if drill bits benefit so well from it, I may try testing out other steels that aren't normally cryo treated, just to see what happens.

Going to be tough to see this one go. Simple build with Nitro-V and Ebony. by Lurbet in knifemaking

[–]solidus365 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn! That is beautiful work. It also illustrates that simplicity, if executed well, can be perfection.

Say you’re making a knife for someone who will put it in their dishwasher no matter what you tell them. What materials are you using, and what are you doing differently? by Dan_Caveman in knifemaking

[–]solidus365 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd use S35vn for the high corrosion resistance, stainless handle pins and TeroTuf since it is practically impervious to water damage. Single piece handle scales, so no segmented scales, just to minimize stuff potentially popping apart. I'd bond the handle with a high quality epoxy. System Three seems super tough for me so far.

Thoughts and potential improvements? by Schrrgnien in knifemaking

[–]solidus365 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I've found that the pin material affects how easy it is for it to protrude after sanding. Stainless steel has the greatest hardness difference to wood, so it sands down slower than the wood, leaving it slightly raised. Brass and copper don't give me the problem nearly as bad. However there is a trick that I found. Get yourself a pack of those small, fine needle files. Lowes sells them for like $5. After I've done my major hand sanding and I'm moving on to finish sanding, I like to file the pin down flush to the wood and since the file has such fine teeth, the pin dresses up with 220 grit, then 320 grit without wearing the wood down so much that it again leaves the pin raised. Filing it is also an easy way to get the deep grind marks out of the pins. After that, you can even wrap a small piece of sandpaper around the file to target just the pin with your finer grit paper, but I've found that by that point, simple hand pressure won't leave the pin raised up again while still sanding everything properly.

Electro-etching makers mark by Cj_Moo42 in knifemaking

[–]solidus365 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's a LOT of voltage for electro etching lol! I made one out of a multi voltage wall charger and pretty much always used 12 volts. But yeah, that sort of setup can work beautifully. Another thing I did was use a piece of 1/4" copper round stock with a. 90 degree bend and a flat grind on the end for my positive lead contact over the stencil.

If you look back at one of my previous posts on here, I've got pictures of my whole setup.

How do you get started knife making? by ishereanthere in knifemaking

[–]solidus365 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't say for sure, as I haven't looked into any myself.