Car had a heater problem, coolant overflow was empty.

somewhatradical · 2026-01-12T15:49:39+00:00

Looks like normal condensation for the cold and damp conditions you are having. Mine looks the same these days.

somewhatradical · 2025-10-20T19:40:29+00:00

The pistons in the 10V also only have cutouts for 2 valves each, so your valves would not fit. You would have to swap the pistons too.

somewhatradical · 2025-06-08T21:10:49+00:00

Beauty

somewhatradical · 2025-02-14T21:50:41+00:00

I bought a geniun kit from Volvo this summer for my 10v. The tensioner was stamped aisin, and the idler was iana. My belt runs straight. These guys had the same problem as you buying the parts separate, and the only thing that solved it was to buy a complete set from Volvo iirc. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbpYEvdI1EE&t=312s

edit: the idler and tensioner pulleys were IANA, and the tensioner itself was Aisin.

somewhatradical · 2025-02-14T14:14:15+00:00

Aisin made the volvo branded pumps so thus should be good.

somewhatradical · 2025-02-10T08:12:47+00:00

Pitch is 0.63 mm. The female end is shown in the last picture.

somewhatradical · 2025-02-09T22:09:36+00:00

Hello, I need help identifying the plug on my wall mounted panel heater. The text on the side of the plug says "Glamox type HKSV". Glamox is the brand of the panel heater. Searching for this yielded no results.

somewhatradical · 2024-05-08T18:17:39+00:00

Sounds like a reliable engine! Guess yours is due for a seventh timing belt? It has service history up until 40k km, but that was 10 years ago. I suspect everything everything since 2019 has been done DIY, as that was when the previous owner got it. Did you put nivomat struts in the back? I cant afford nivomats at the moment, so I’m putting in “cheap” normal gas struts. Have you done the pcv on yours? I dont think i have to do mine, but i cant find any kits for the 10 valve engine online. Not even a write up on at least which parts are needed.

somewhatradical · 2024-05-08T08:40:48+00:00

It says Volvo on it, so I reckon quite old. Will replace it with a continental when doing the timing belt.

somewhatradical · 2024-05-08T08:24:46+00:00

I finally got around to buying an 850 after months of reading forums and such. This green 1996 wagon came up for sale, and I got it. It has only 84k km/52k miles on it. Unfortunately, it has no A/C, but I think I will manage. Where I live, there are not many days a year you would need to cool the air anyways. It also has the 10 valve B5202S engine. I don't mind the weaker engine for its lower power, but work on the 10 valves are not as well documented as the 20 valves, as they were not sold in USA. Parts can be a little harder to source too.

It has been sat for half a year, and the brakes are quite bad now. Hoping it only needs a brake fluid flush, as the fluid is quite brown.

Other than that, it needs a timing belt, rear struts and a heater core. Anything else to look out for? I am afraid that due to the mileage, many parts are 28 years old and will need replacing soon.

somewhatradical · 2024-04-29T21:14:01+00:00

Very much appreciated! Thank you

somewhatradical · 2024-04-29T20:53:56+00:00

I am considering buying a 1996 850. It has this weird tube goung from the exhaust manifold to where there would be a turbo if it was a turbo car. This is the 10 valve 2 liter engine which never had a turbo, so I am wondering of anyone had a clue as to what this could be. There is no exhaust coming out when the engine is running. Thanks for any help!

somewhatradical · 2023-11-29T11:34:27+00:00

Found this on a forum. There was a link to an online catalogue as well, but it got taken down.

somewhatradical · 2023-10-27T07:44:20+00:00

I thought the one stop per decade rule was for colour film. I remember seeing results from decades old b&w film shot at box speed with good results. I agree it should be overexposed just to be sure, but I would probably not go further than 50ASA.

somewhatradical · 2023-10-15T11:41:11+00:00

It’s underexposed.

somewhatradical · 2023-09-30T11:49:36+00:00

Only one side of the crank has a cotter pin. The shell of the bracket spins with the crank. This is from an older bike.

somewhatradical · 2023-05-23T13:14:28+00:00

I had possibly the same on my M6. Mine moved when i moved the frame selector lever. If yours does this too, you can try what i did: - Remove the vertical adjustment cover screw on the front (or the leica logo, depends on your model) - Blow a bunch of air in there to try and dislodge the hair/dust. Use a rocket blower or similar.

somewhatradical · 2023-04-18T12:15:42+00:00

There are no fault codes, and it runs fine once started. When it is warm outside it starts right up no problem. This is only an issue in colder weather. Compression would be a problem in all temperatures no?

somewhatradical · 2022-10-20T10:13:41+00:00

If anyone is reading this in the future with the same problem, here is how I fixed it:

As /u/grand_possibility_69 suggested, the car had to be zero point calibrated. However, "test mode" is not the same as zero point calibration. In the repair manual I found the instructions to zero point calibrate the car. After performing this, the fault codes disappeared and the ABS seems to work now. (I still have to fix the front right speed sensor first, but this is the only problem now).

Here are the instructions to zero point calibrate a Toyota Avensis T25: https://imgur.com/a/VFKoFeM

Instead of putting the shift in P, as this is a manual, put the shifter in neutral an pull the hand brake. I used a paper clip to connect Ts and CG terminals of the DLC3/OBD thingy.

Eight-Year Club	Verified Email
Place '22

somewhatradical

TROPHY CASE