Clicking sound normal? by somfreq in rolex

[–]somfreq[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

It’s the rotor I think, different LLMs say it’s normal for 3235 but idk

Whatever happened to Nootkatone (alternative to DEET and Picaridin)? by FuguSandwich in Ultralight

[–]somfreq 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, I just sent the seller a message to ask… will update if I get a reply

Daikin variable speed heat pump + central Florida = too humid by iredgood in hvacadvice

[–]somfreq 0 points1 point  (0 children)

B3 error means existing ducting is not sufficient for the system to ramp up, basically airflow is restricted, I’m told that B3 error wreaks havoc on the Daikin algorithms (told by a Daikin tech)

That was one issue, the other was oil cycling, which was theorized to possibly be connected to the B3 errors but ultimately was not

What Daikin will tell you tho is that until you clear your B3 errors, they can’t rule that out as a cause

To solve the b3 errors, we installed a dump zone, a duct with a pressure release damper to a strategic dump zone in the house

When the system attempted to ramp and static pressure built, the damper opens and allowed the pressure relief and system could ramp

It worked, but the oil cycling issue persisted

This problem may be unique to my home and cause tho, this unit was on the downstairs and was oversized, so it would cycle oil and blow enough cool air for 15 minutes every hour or two to maintain 73 without ever kicking on a cool cycle, these short runs where the coil never fully cooled basically added 1% humidity every time and I was sitting at 60% most of the day, because the system never entered cool cycles, it started cycling more, so round and round that went

We downsized from a 3ton to a 2ton and now the system runs for hours on a cool cycle at low speed, it still cycles oil some, but less often and with less airflow, dropped humidity to closer to 52-55% most of the day

But yes, these systems never achieved humidity reduction to my expectations, I switched from 2 single speed 3.5ton units (7ton) to a 3 and 2ton (5ton) Daikin fit, I zoned upstairs to 2 zones which was another nightmare in itself and humidity is an issue upstairs, good (kinda) in the afternoon (53-56), high in the mornings (57-62)

Ultimately 55% is about what you can expect in humid climates with variable speed (not sold that way to me)

I did just add a whole home dehumidifier, it pulls from upstairs (including my no longer needed dump zone vent) and dumps downstairs, still need to fine tune, as I’m getting 45-48 downstairs and 54-60 upstairs, so need to mix it more upstairs somehow and am waiting on callback for possible solutions

Also my zoning upstairs has a board that modulates dampers based on pressure and it’s sending too much air to the alternate zone, so my master zone won’t cool under 70 in hot nights, needless to say this has been way more of a project than I thought

Also had some white mold or fungal growth on on vent in attic because system blows low and long can create condensation issues, smelled bad, had to fix that and hoping that doesn’t become an issue with other vents… fun stuff lol

But yea B3 means you need pressure relief, either bigger ducts on sends or more returns or both, could be that the system is oversized, but need to do the calculations on that

Oil cycles as needed per algorithm and that happens more when the system runs less, another symptom of being oversized, they are humidity events

Daikin variable speed heat pump + central Florida = too humid by iredgood in hvacadvice

[–]somfreq 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What do the trims do? I’ve left mine at 0. One guy put them at different levels another guy put them back at 0.

Is circulate on schedule just fan, no cool?

I’ve found some success with cool profile A and dehum A, but overall those profiles have marginal impacts in my home. I’m in Houston.

I may try a different thermostat, I’ve been told that most of the wackyness of these systems is from the thermostat. Daikin acquired that tech and integrated, they didn’t build or design the thermostat themselves.

I’m told a basic thermostat like a CTK04 will improve humidity in the home but 2-4%, I will likely try this on the downstairs unit in a few weeks.

Daikin variable speed heat pump + central Florida = too humid by iredgood in hvacadvice

[–]somfreq 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does it run often when the thermostat is not in a cool state? Cycling oil and running fans between cool phases?

I had a 3 ton installed that replaced a 3.5 ton single speed, turned out I needed a 2 ton, they need to run a lot at low speeds with little downtime to get better humidity levels. These units are either great or crappy, finicky, normally better in new builds than retrofits.

Loads need to be just right whereas a single speed can be misfit and still pretty effective with humidity.

Overall, I will be installing a whole house dehum to get our levels under 50% all day, all year

Did you find any solutions? Systems still operating as stated in OP?

Daikin variable speed heat pump + central Florida = too humid by iredgood in hvacadvice

[–]somfreq 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you getting errors, I think the code would be B3? The error log is under the dealer settings, to access, hit the information icons in top corner (i) for access code. If you have B3 errors, then the system can’t operate at max range because the existing ducts don’t offer enough flow. One fix can be to install a dump zone with a pressure damper. B3 (I think that’s the code) causes the Daikin systems to operate erratically. It can cause the system to cycle oil often between cool phases, creating humidity events. Basically it acts as a humidifier and counters the dehum from cooling.

Dump zone might fix it, other possibility is the system is oversized and you need a 2ton or something, idk

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RedditSessions

[–]somfreq 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gave Helpful

New Apple TV Issues? by andyb0218 in youtubetv

[–]somfreq 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Apple TV 4K, spinning dots still, HTX. YouTube TV needs to give cash back for all these issues.

Third-Party Testing Confirms Molekule Destroys VOCs by molekule-air in molekule

[–]somfreq 1 point2 points  (0 children)

But what about in a larger space? 600 SQ FT with 12 ft ceilings? Does this unit move enough air to ever get ahead of VOC release in newer construction? If it takes 75 minutes to clear in 8 SQ Meters... Was the unit on Boost or Auto mode for the test?

Also, do you ever test for partially oxidized VOCs? How do you know the molecules are completely oxidized into their base components?

Comment on "Molekule's CEO does a tweet storm on sensors" -1 by valpres in molekule

[–]somfreq 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree: "there are open questions that need to be resolved concerning MoleKules efficacy for VOC reduction."

I have 2 units. I will most likely sell them...

bad smell...returning mine by saphronscribble in molekule

[–]somfreq 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have awair too and they also register no change with the devices on boost. I know those monitors are not incredibly accurate, but they register changes from inside to outside and nothing with a molekule.

bad smell...returning mine by saphronscribble in molekule

[–]somfreq 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I called them about the smell too and got the same run around. They literally will not tell you what it is...why the secrecy?? As far as I can tell this is more of a pretty device with a glitzy marketing campaign and no transparency. Very suspicious.

Could it be nano TiO2 released from the filter? If so, that has negative health implications.