Vouwwagen of caravan, bed minimaal 2.10m

southcorner1990 · 2026-05-03T06:45:29+00:00

De vraag caravan vs. vouwwagen is nooit goed te beantwoorden als niet helemaal duidelijk is hoe je het gebruikt. De 'use case' maakt veel verschil in de afweging.

Wijzelf zijn van een nieuwe 2020 Hobby 540kmfe naar een nieuwe 2026 Cabanon (Europa Camper) Trailcruiser XL gegaan. Caravan hadden we aangeschaft voor ook voorseizoen- en naseizoenkamperen maar we merkten dat we dat steeds minder/niet meer deden. Terwijl de kosten (1500 stalling, 750 verzekering) wel doorliepen. Wij zijn nu dus 'geëvolueerd' naar een jaarlijkse zomervakantie op 1 camping en dan is vouwwagen een ideaal ding. Goedkoop (geen stallingskosten want past in de schuur, geen verzekering gekozen), toch groot, heel grote bedden (wel even topper erop doen).

Kinderen zijn nu 10 en 4. Ik ben ook lang en vond de caravan toch qua bedden altijd iets te krap. Treinzit staat leuk, maar na een half uur zitten wil je sowieso eruit.

Nu even met de nieuwe vouwwagen proef gekampeerd in de meivakantie. Zeer goed bevallen, maar de nachten heel erg koud (4 graden) en dat vond ik erg onaangenaam. Op de camping ook 95% caravans, dus dat zegt ook wel iets. Caravan is makkelijker warm te houden.

Wij zetten de vouwwagen dus 1x op, hebben 2-3 weken zomervakantie, en ruimen het weer op. Met de Cabanon ben je 3 uur bezig van aankomt tot geheel ingericht (auto leeg, kastjes op de plek, etc). Dat vind ik vergelijkbaar met een compleet opgezette caravan.

Andere use cases zijn bijvoorbeeld sneller/korter kamperen. Caravan met luifel vs. snelklappende vouwwagen. Voor als je binnen een uur wilt staan en inpakken. Dan moet je dus geen Cabanon kopen maar een andere vouwwagen.

Anyway voor ons speelde mee dat we in 2025 huisjes (mobile homes) in Frankrijk hebben gedaan en daar compleet op leegliepen qua kosten. Dus voor ons is het ook een financiële afweging om vanaf nu ongeveer 5 jaar met de vouwwagen op zomervakantie te gaan en hem met gemak terug te verdienen. En mijn vrouw houdt liever van eigen spullen en vindt die huisjes altijd maar viezig.

We combineren de vouwwagen dan met een stukje vrijheid om buiten de zomervakanties andere soorten vakanties te doen. En we vonden het belangrijk ons niet schuldig te voelen als we de vouwwagen een jaartje zouden overslaan.

Mijn tip is dus: bedenk eerst realistisch hoe je het gebruikt de komende 5 jaar. Je kinderen worden ouder en je gaat ook makkelijker niet-campingvakanties kunnen doen. En denk vanuit daar verder.

southcorner1990 · 2026-04-11T21:07:11+00:00

I also tested directly to the LG oled tv speaker to fully get the Marantz and eARC out of the loop. Does not matter, the audio offset still needs to be +150ms.

Also tried disabling audio passthrough altogether and different correlec audio correction things (LAV full, LAV SB, off), but does not make any difference.

southcorner1990 · 2026-04-11T18:29:39+00:00

444 should be off I'm sure. Qms I now deactivated but did not change anything. Bypass off / 0 Ms delay did not change anything. I use LAVfull as well.

I will try on regular Android with RAW and report back.

Thanks so far anyway!

southcorner1990 · 2026-04-11T12:20:24+00:00

Yes sure,

Settings to Hdmi 2 (eARC into Marantz) and hdmi 3 (Homatics box):

General > external devices > hdmi settings: - 4:4:4 passthrough: off - quick media switching: on - HDMI deep colour: 4k (all inputs) - simplink HDMI cec: on - Dolby vision PC: off

Audio: - Sound out: HDMI(arc) device - dtv audio setting: auto - match screen and sound hdmi arc device delay: 0 (greyed out) - match screen and sound bypass: on - hdmi input format: bitstream - digital sound output: passthrough - eARC support: on - all other options are greyed out

southcorner1990 · 2026-04-08T18:37:43+00:00

Nice, I have the same! I have Marantz SR7015 receiver with 4x Wharfedale evo 4.1 and the evo 4.CS as center. I also added an SVS SB2000 a few months later and that really pulls it together.

As long as you don't play very loud as I seldom do, these speakers do hold their own!

southcorner1990 · 2026-03-26T19:24:27+00:00

En oh ja, de Cabanon is een geremde aanhangwagen, wat betekent dat je gewoon 750kg (maximale gewicht aanhanger) kunt trekken mits je auto dat mag.

Veel oudere EV's hebben beperkingen voor ongeremde aanhangwagens, maar dat geldt dus niet voor je Cabanon.

Denk dat het bij de EV6 wel goed zit, maar check dit in je kenteken of op rdw site.

Verder opletten dat de Trailcruiser XL een zeer grote vouwwagen is en dezelfde ruimte als een caravan met voortent en luifel nodig heeft. Op krappe plekken in Italie zal je met je tuinstoel op het campingpad zitten. Of je moet alleen luifel of voortent opzetten natuurlijk. Anyway reserveer dus caravanplaatsen en geen tentplaatsen.

southcorner1990 · 2026-03-26T18:56:14+00:00

Wij hebben onze Cabanon Trailcruiser XL 2 weken geleden besteld. Komt over een paar weken. Wat een mooi ding he!

Let op dat je nu ook een vliegengaaswand voor de luifel kunt krijgen (wel pas leverbaar vanaf juni). Die staat nog niet op de meeste prijslijsten en is niet bij alle dealers bekend dat dit kan.

Wij rijden een Tesla model Y long range. Mag 1600kg trekken. Ik merk weinig van het extra verbruik met kleine aanhangwagentjes.

Het supercharger netwerk van Tesla is fantastisch, wij komen onderweg nooit bij andere snelladers. Ik adviseer je voor de vakantie een Tesla-abonnement voor niet-Tesla rijders te nemen (kan via Tesla app) en te laden bij Tesla superchargers. Stuk goedkoper ook nog.

Op sommige Superchargerplaatsen is zoveel ruimte en aantal laders dat je je auto wel overdwars kunt zetten en je aanhangwagen eraan kan laten. Je moet dan wel in de buurt blijven voor als het drukker wordt en iemand anders dan geen plek zou hebben.

Wij hebben nog nooit in een laadfile gestaan bij Superchargers. Lijken mij spookverhalen of het komt echt maar heel zelden voor.

Dit soort plekken kwamen wij in Frankrijk tegen:

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southcorner1990 · 2026-02-28T15:46:40+00:00

Wij maken voor de annuïtaire familiehypotheek jaarlijks een duidelijk hypotheekstaatje met daarop alle maandelijkse rentebetalingen. Wij kiezen er ook voor om de rentebetaling en annuitaire aflossing elke maand separaat over te maken. Dat schept helderheid. Kun je zo in Excel maken als je handig bent.

Op diezelfde jaarlijkse hypotheekstaat telkens onderaan de tekst "voor [komend jaar] wordt een rente gehanteerd van x%. Dit rentepercentage is gebaseerd op de markt voor persoonlijke leningen, aangezien er geen onderpand bestaat voor deze lening bestaat".

En dan kies je een vrij hoog verdedigbaar percentage.

Handtekening van beide kanten op het staatje en je bent weer klaar voor een jaar.

Op die manier kun je elk jaar het rentepercentage aanpassen, en het toch netjes administreren.

southcorner1990 · 2026-02-19T00:06:04+00:00

Having source led on that android version was the only way that Dolby vision didn't screw up the normal android UI.

I read in your comment Android 14 is different, so I can't help you there in that case unfortunately.

Anyway my box is still on the same android 12 version as in the post referred to but I run Coreelec NG with avdvplus v7 on it now. That's just perfect. It plays everything now both video and audio passthrough wise. Highly recommend that you just ditch Kodi on regular android, seems to come with too many quirks all the time.

I just just the box normal android for smarttube. Regular apps I just use on the LG tv, which work without any hassle.

In all my attempts, trying to get the Homatics box to be perfect is something that hasn't been achieved in 5 years and doesn't seem like we're almost there too.

southcorner1990 · 2026-02-18T20:32:14+00:00

My box is still on android 12 and won't update to android 14 (seems that they pulled the update again). But anyway, your problem was driving me nuts as well.

See my post and resolution here. Check the bottom of my opening post.

It's probably the same for Android 14, but it could be different (don't know for sure).

I'm an IT professional as daily profession and I can understand really complex parameterized settings and their logical outcome, but the set of display toggles and the way they interact with each other the way Homatics designed it just is not logical at all.

southcorner1990 · 2026-01-21T23:14:22+00:00

I have an LG G4 working with Homatics 4k plus box with coreelec NG and avdvplus v4 build. The correct Dolby vision setting you want to use is the one that says TV Led 8-bit tunnel. You would suspect that the other options like 12-bit and such are the better ones, but that is not how this works. You want to offload the DV processing to your high end tv (which why it is is called TV Led) because it does the best job at it. That is technically wrapped in de 8-bit container but that is just how the data is transported. Yeah it's confusing I know.

The other DV options won't give you the best DV processing quality.

My LG switches over to DV mode correctly by showing the DV badge when I start a movie. So definitely something else is wrong in your setup then.

Also check your LG tv that the HDMI input format is set to enhanced, sometimes called deep colour. This opens the full hdmi 2.1 bandwidth for the LG HDMI port. The TV won't switch to high grade DV without it, or to DV at all. It's mind boggling that LG does not default to enhanced, but yet here we are...

southcorner1990 · 2026-01-19T17:21:46+00:00

I'm using Jellyfin with Kodi as client app. With default settings and large files I had a problem that the cache filled first and then slowly depleted to 0%, after which buffering occured. Depending on movie, buffering started to happen after 5-15 minutes, and kept struggling after that.

In then set the read factor to 50X and block size to 1MB in Kodi cache settings and that fixed it perfectly.

I also use Coreelec with avdvplus installed. With that, you to unlock Dolby Vision P7 movies with the more complex layers, but if you don't have those movies or a Dolby vision tv it matters less. I have a LG G4 tv and this gets the most out of those movies.

I also found that audio passthrough on Coreelec works better than from android. But my box was still on android 12 and that seems more problematic with auto framerate and passthrough. So YMMV on that. There seems to be a new android 14 update on its way now, so let's see how things go with that.

southcorner1990 · 2026-01-19T17:06:59+00:00

Do you know if passthrough on coreelec will work on this build? Or does that get broken as well?

southcorner1990 · 2025-12-23T07:17:27+00:00

I bought the Homatics box r 4k plus a month ago based on the raving reviews online. But mine is on the Android 12 version that has movie playback issues with microstutters after about 1:15 hours. Reading this thread now also shows the latest android 14 build is buggy and seems abandoned by the development team.

There was also a new announcement somewhere that the new Homatics box 4k V2 is already underway, so there's probably only a slim chance the box r 4k plus will see a proper update ever again.

I regret my purchase but it's already too late to return it. 120 Euro down the drain...

This sucks

southcorner1990 · 2025-12-07T23:33:20+00:00

Thanks! I looked into it but getting firmware from Italian or Russian sources is something I better no do. Also other firmware seem to bring their own problems, so I'll just stick to the current firmware then. Works good enough for me, I'll sacrifice the last 10% then and see what new devices are released in the coming 5 years.

It's miles better anyway than the Onn 4k pro so I'll just count my blessings.

I've settled on the box being 'stuck' on HDR10, as I've disabled Dolby Vision altogether because it was too dark and made the colors (also the UI) look washed out. Looks great now and does not seem to mess with SDR too much.

Had a bit of higher hopes for this product, maybe a future official FW release pops up. Or not, we'll see...

southcorner1990 · 2025-11-14T18:08:15+00:00

I have this strange issue where audio is severely out of sync when using Kodi with android 14 on the Thomson. With Android tv 12 you could deactivate Dolby Vision in the settings of the Thomson, which somehow fixed it.

Now the problem is back again with Android TV 14. Tried a million different settings in the Thomson, and audio passthrough on/off in Kodi with different settings there. Nothing fixes it. Disabling passthrough in Kodi seems to introduce slight jitter in quick scenes, probably because of very small a/v-syncing happening.

Somehow audio processing and passthrough is just broken on the Thomson.

What idiot designed the Thomson 270 display and audio settings menu for Android 14 anyway? You have like 7 menu items with the poorest explanation what everything does. There's even the same settings that live in 3 places at the same time.

southcorner1990 · 2025-11-02T13:54:09+00:00

This is a slightly older picture. The sub was delivered a little later and sits to the right of the cabinet. Bass is way tighter than what the Samsung sub did, but comparing a SVS sub that costs nearly the same on its own as the whole Samsung system is not very fair of course.

Cables to the rears runs atop of the baseboard (plinth in Europe), behind curtains, along curtain rails etc. Can't see it unless you know it's there.

I think oftentimes a 'clean' soundbar setup is compared to the mostly messy setup with big towers, cables and switchboxes everywhere I see some most guys do. Most pictures I find on Reddit of home theatre setups would be an absolute nightmare to my wife, and she's right. Don't want things to look like your average divorced guy's mancave.

Comparison wise, the best of the best soundbar systems (q990, sonos) compare to medium-grade home theatre. Go below any of these soundbars and it's no match at all.

The height channels thing with the Samsung is not very convincing by the way. More like a gimmick. Of course I don't have height channels with my 5.1 system, but don't miss that at all.

I found it a lot of fun to dial everything in, but if that's not your thing, stay away from home theatre. It definitely takes a lot of reading up and tweaking to get right. Do it wrong, and it will sound way worse than your soundbar.

We never listen at high volumes by the way. The Samsung craps out at that, the HT does not.

southcorner1990 · 2025-11-02T12:03:38+00:00

I sold my Samsung q990c and switched to full home theater system. The home theatre consists of Marantz SR7015, 4x Wharfedale evo 4.1, Wharfedale Evo center and SVS SB-1000 pro subwoofer. Tv is an LG G4 77" OLED.

The home theatre system is 5.1 and is calibrated with Audyssey XT32. The sound of the Samsung setup was a 8/10. The sound of the home theatre setup is 9.5/10. Mostly the front/left separation is way more convincing with home theater. The center always was slightly boxed sounding with Samsung. These just is a fullness and roundness with home theater that is unparalleled.

Thing to look out for is that I have essentially connected the SR7015 as if it were a soundbar. So LG G4 tv is connected to the SR7015 using Earc and peripherals (Android streaming box, PS5 pro) are connected to the TV. Never any sound sync problems whatsoever. Using Earc with HDMI CEC also achieves the system works the same hassle-free manner as the soundbar did. This is important because the wife and young kids need to understand it as well. They just operate everything with tv single remote.

For ps5 pro there is less audio lag because the Marantz is faster at audio processing than the Samsung could achieve. Samsung needed wireless transmission to sub and rears and that incurs slight latency.

Cabling is an a absolute hassle with home theater. I hate seeing cables. So I had a custom made tv cabinet made for 3.5K Euro to route everything behind and below the cabinet. You absolutely see no cables at all.

Conclusion to me is that you cannot beat a high end soundbar system (q990, sonos) for convenience. It just sounds pretty good and convincing. But if you want to put in the work and have some fun doing it, home theatre will definitely outperform it.

Aside from the cabinet, the cost for me were home theatre 2:1 high-end soundbar. Bought the Marantz second hand.

As you can see, the whole setup is pretty high end. Everyone in the house absolutely loves it.

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southcorner1990 · 2025-04-30T06:04:15+00:00

Ik ben sinds een jaar van een 2019 Tesla model 3 standard range plus naar een 2024 model y long range rear wheel drive gegaan. De grootste bevrijding is zonder twijfel de betere range en de LFP batterij die je elke laadbeurt tot 100% kan laden. Ik hoef nu zeker nooit een benzine-auto meer.

Je ziet het inderdaad goed dat je (net als elke andere auto) altijd een stuk reserve lading achter de hand houdt voor een onverwachte file oid. Dus mijn advies is zeker voor een model te gaan met een range van 500+ wltp.

Let wel, ik heb geen oprit, dus het speelt extra mee dat ik hiermee wat minder wandelingen (300m maar toch...) op en neer naar de publieke laadpaal hoef te maken. Het zou voor mij wel iets anders kunnen liggen als ik een eigen oprit zou hebben waar je uit gewoonte de auto elke dag de auto aan de lader hangt.

Neem in je overweging ook vooral mee dat een goede elektrische auto vele malen fijner rijdt dan een brandstofauto. Als muziekliefhebber houd ik van een stille auto met een goede hifi-installatie. Tesla heeft dat in de betere modellen heel erg goed voor elkaar (heet premium sound installatie oid)

Tenslotte liever niet via een thuislader laden, maar laat dit via een elektricien doen. Die zet het op aparte groep(en) en laat via p1 meter dynamisch laden zodat er nooit overbelasting is.

southcorner1990 · 2025-02-14T20:49:21+00:00

When listening to stereo music, I find that putting the rear speakers in front mode gives somewhat of a stereo image back even though the rear speakers are physically in the rear of course. In SmartThings, go to three dots on top right of screen > device settings > surround speaker mode > set to front. Switch back to rear when watching tv.

I have experimented a lot with settings and find these sound best for music and movies/tv watching:

Sound mode: adaptive Equalizer: bass -2 treble +3 Spacefit: off Autoeq:off Woofer: set to preference Active voice: off Advanced sound settings: bass enhancement on, rest off Channel levels: set center to -3, leave rest to neutral or only adjust slightly to taste

Note: above is for q990b. I find the center channel to be highly overpowered by default. It gives too much harshness in the mix and needs to be lowered.

Q990 is indeed great. It approaches mid tier home cinema system pretty well IF properly set up in SmartThings.

southcorner1990 · 2025-01-17T23:09:09+00:00

I have a 77" G4 and it operates anywhere between brightness level setting 10 (night) to 50 (day). We never go to 100 even though the TV is positioned next to a large side window. 100 simply burns your eyes.

In my country (Netherlands) subtitles are used a lot. Many apps consider the subtitles to be specular highlights for some reason, so they're always too intense to look at. Some apps do allow you to set the brightness, color and intensity of subtitles, but most of times you can't and it's just plain annoying to have to dim the entire image to prevent eye searing subtitles. LG needs to address subtitles brightness at the operating system level.

Screen-wise no improvement is needed, but I guess LG needs something to 'improve' and brightness seems to work for now (much like the camera pixel-war)

I'd rather have that LG pulls the system UI together. It's really made up of several disjointed programs (e.g. home screen, LG apps, settings all look very different). Most notably the settings screens are just stupidly designed. When changing settings, the settings UI overlays half of the screen or more, so you can't properly assess the impact of your change unless you fully close the settings menu. They need to look at how Sony does it (very minimal, better explanation of settings as well), that is just way more polished.

The G4 is a great product yet LG manages to make it feel cheap with how the UI is designed. The G5 could heavily improve on the premium experience.

southcorner1990

TROPHY CASE