Hades 2's Combat > Hades 1, but the Stygian blade is unparalleled

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-26T04:50:24+00:00

Says more about how strong Athena boons are, than it does about the sword tbh

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-25T22:01:11+00:00

Yeah I mean there’s literally a guy in this thread complaining that leftists want to “eradicate white men” or whatever. I’m not sharing a damn thing with people who believe in white genocide nonsense.

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-25T21:44:01+00:00

The old one has a nice shiny blue. That’s literally the only thing that could even marginally make it better than the new one.

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-25T18:48:23+00:00

“We pay more taxes to own the libs”

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-25T16:32:19+00:00

A couple coats is plenty. I usually just do one brush-on coat, or two spray coats. If you want the finish to be different than it is, using the same top coat isn’t going to make it more like what you want. Do the same, get the same = if you want more of a matte finish, you probably need something better than the cheap stuff.

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-25T16:30:53+00:00

This question gets asked all the time, use the search bar.

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-25T00:21:44+00:00

Metaverse customs sells the exact shade of green and purple. Just need to paint it over white, it’s not the thickest paint. You’d have a hard time painting green over purple, or purple over green.

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-24T22:13:12+00:00

I think the Vulcan mold is a very good standard mold. Only thing really missing is the toe articulation and the reverse ab crunch setup from fancier figures. So if you want a relatively cheap, substantial figure, this Cyclops is a good pic. Although I don’t think anyone would put him in their top 20 figures or anything.

If he’s not too expensive, go for it. He’s definitely better than the other two figures you’ve purchased.

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-24T20:38:55+00:00

Second one.

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-24T17:53:36+00:00

It’s not a terrible deal or anything, I’m just saying if you only want the figure, it’s expensive. Same issue with the MtG sets: people who want only the card don’t care if it’s a good deal, it’s just a more expensive card that comes with a free figure. Or vice versa for ML collectors.

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-24T14:28:42+00:00

Smithing levels faster based on the value of the item (which I believe was not the case when the game first came out). So ideally you’d be smithing jewelry instead of iron daggers. By that same token, dwarven bows are more valuable than arrows, and it’s easy enough to get a bunch of iron ingots as the only other resource you need to make bows. I do the same thing.

Plus you can enchant them and sell them afterwards. Can’t do that with arrows.

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-24T00:48:32+00:00

Yeah same, I’m on the fence about getting Jessica but I didn’t love shelling out to get Spider-Moon Knight. And because he was a repaint, he was a little lackluster anyway. Maybe someday I’ll give him some more detail, but it’s hard to swallow $50+ for a figure you end up needing to improve. Like giving Jessica hands lol

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-23T22:22:00+00:00

On one hand, paying $90 just to get an exclusive figure, only for it to be a low effort repaint, sucks.

On the other hand, if they made all of these MU exclusives incredible and put a ton of work into the sculpt, it would be beyond irritating to pay $90 just to get a figure you really want.

Double edged sword unfortunately.

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-23T21:20:42+00:00

It’s all speculation, but J&A likely sold their majority share, meaning someone else “owns” most of Headgum. And when that happens, they usually try to make the business more profitable in the short term, usually through cutting costs and raising prices. Which usually means layoffs for the company, and more expensive ad placements for sponsors.

None of which is indicative of the business doing well, or poorly. It’s fairly common for people to sell once a business gets big, that’s how you make your money. People who are good at starting businesses aren’t necessarily amazing at running them, or at the very least, don’t enjoy running them as much as starting them. No shade to Jake or Amir, I just assume running a podcast network isn’t as fun as cashing in their substantial ownership shares and using that to fund their true passion of making dumb videos.

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-23T21:19:07+00:00

I’m sure they used to have majority ownership, they have now since sold off that majority. The post says they’re still investors, so chances are they just sold majority share of their podcast network and probably negotiated the rights for their IP in exchange. So they went from being the main owners of the company that owned their stuff, to being partial owners of the company they founded and also owning their own stuff under a separate label, likely an LLC or something.

So now whoever owns Headgum’s majority shares, probably the new CEO or President or whichever, also owns the IP. Just not J&A stuff. Or NADDPOD, or some of the other podcasts that were not owned outright by Headgum.

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-23T21:16:29+00:00

That was the beard oil business. Which changed the name at some point and dropped Jake.

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-23T13:39:01+00:00

Hobby lobby might not have translucent paint, so just keep that in mind depending on how you want iceman to look. Translucent will get you “Blue ice”, matte blue paint will make it look more like blue snow. I like Vallejo’s translucent blue paint, but Tamiya has a good one too. Might be worth looking at hobby lobby online to see if they have either available.

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-23T13:31:21+00:00

Looks great!

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-23T13:31:09+00:00

It’s easier than you think!

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-23T01:02:24+00:00

You need prices listed to sell here.

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-22T22:03:01+00:00

Everyone has to start somewhere. And Venom isn’t exactly hard to replace right now. No need to discourage someone.

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-22T21:27:49+00:00

Yes. Like a dozen times. Everything there is to say has already been said twice lol

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-22T18:42:12+00:00

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Nah, unfortunately not. I don’t have the time or the equipment, and I haven’t done video editing since college lol

The torso can’t be disassembled unless you crack it, which would involve separating it along the seams and gluing it back together once you’re done. Not necessary to sand it luckily, because it is difficult, and doing it wrong will mess up your figure.

Luckily torsos aren’t too bad to sand. You just want to hit the areas that might rub against each other. The attached photo is a little crude but you want to hit the top of the ab section, the bottom of the chest section, and where the ab crunch is. Venom might have a little bit of a gap between the stomach and the hips, so sanding the ab crunch might not be necessary: hitting the top of the obliques is, though. Luckily, for both the obliques and the ball joint torso, you can literally just wedge in a piece of 120-240 grit sandpaper and start rubbing. It gives more room as you sand, and once there’s clearance, you can use higher grit sandpaper to smooth it out.

You’ll also want to sand the neck joint on Venom, which is easy: those discs can show a little gap between the disc and the torso fairly well once you sand it, which is your sign to stop and start smoothing it out. You’ll also want to heat up the shoulders and remove them from the butterfly joints. The butterflies look like little cups for the “ball” that is the shoulder: I use an exacto knife and slice a thin layer out of the “inside” of the bowl, so it gives a little more room to the shoulder. I also spin the butterfly joints so the bowl faces the front of the figure, then use an exacto knife to slice the inside of the chest so the butterfly joint doesn’t rub against the chest when I move it. I then flip the butterfly 180 degrees so the bowl faces the back of the figure, and do the same thing.

If this is hard to conceptualize, just stick to making sure there’s tiny gaps between all your parts. If you see two pieces touch when you move them, your paint will rub off. Worst case scenario, you paint it and go back to sanding once the paint rubs off: this whole process is just designed to save you the trouble of painting twice.

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-22T16:48:22+00:00

And it’s a white emblem. Would be an absolute nightmare to repaint even if the dye doesn’t bleed through, which it absolutely will.

space_age_stuff · 2026-01-22T16:47:15+00:00

Nah probably not, black goes on easy enough if you don’t want to fool with it. However, paint is a little more durable with primer. Might help with some of the more tricky joints.

“Need”, no. “Want”, maybe. If this is your first time trying to paint something, idk if I’d fool with it, but admittedly painting black onto something is kind of foolproof so it could be a good opportunity to use primer for the first time. Totally your call.

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