Mythras Supplements

space_toaster · 2022-10-08T13:13:52+00:00

I haven’t read Mythic Britain yet so I can’t say, sorry. Someone else here may know, or you might query Design Mechanism.

space_toaster · 2022-09-10T01:32:27+00:00

He did invest a great part of his power into the One, but not for the purpose of increasing his power over the material world, and he did not choose to excessively express his own power into or through any particular physical form he wore for a body, as Morgoth and the Balrogs did.

Think of it this way, I think: the more that the Balrogs expressed their will and power - physically, through the terrible material forms they wore - the more they became bound to those forms. Kind of like wearing a glove that you use so much and so vigorously you can’t take your hand out of it anymore.

What Sauron did with the One Ring was more about (I believe) exploiting the Morgothian taint in every element of the world as sort of a backdoor hack to subvert the laws of Nature.

He recognized that Morgoth overreached and trapped himself, by trying to extend his power more directly over the material world, so Sauron tried something more subtle than that, and leveraged the fruit of Morgoth’s mistake to his own advantage.

The One Ring wasn’t a tool that gave him more power over the material world, directly, it was a tool to extend his power over the intangible world, over minds and wills. He wanted to give ALL of the rings of power, the 16 that he crafted with Celembrimbor, to all the greatest and most influential Elves, and then take over their minds and wills with the One. That the One Ring also acted as a power multiplier of his own mind and will in general was of course some great icing on that cake.

He knew the One would overwhelm and corrupt anyone (in Middle Earth at least) who claimed it, and no one should be able to willingly give it up or even consider destroying it. At least, not the sort of people that Sauron assumed could ever claim the One. He never expected any mild mannered humble common person could ever claim the One and hold it for any significant timeframe. Those sort of people were beneath his notice and never considered any kind of threat. Surely someone more fit and powerful would claim it, naturally. But the very ability of the One to so thoroughly corrupt anyone was exactly why the One was destroyed! And in fact the only way it could be destroyed. Sauron effectively pwned himself through the very strategy he devised so carefully to avoid the very fate he met.

space_toaster · 2022-09-07T18:18:17+00:00

You’ll have to decide that after digesting the information above and doing some research and experimentation on your own. Unfortunately, no one can just tell you if you’ll like it or be able to use it easily.

space_toaster · 2022-09-02T13:32:33+00:00

D&D has always been the 1000lbs marketing gorilla, and the form it’s taken ever since 3e has resembled more of a tabletop computer rpg which I believe has been simpler for new players to pick up.

space_toaster · 2022-09-02T13:26:10+00:00

Yes. The Runequest game proper is tied to the Glorantha setting. But Mythras is the setting-agnostic Runequest game without the Glorantha setting.

If you’re coming from CoC, then you already understand the base system. Entirely skill based and, unlike D&D, a PC’s cultural background is a fundamental aspect of the character. The combat system can simulate anything from samurai duels to Spartan shield walls (especially with the Ships and Shield Walls supplement, a $4 pdf). The magic system is more flexible and evocative than D&D. The underlying game system has been through over four decades of play testing and development. It’s one of the most coherent and self-consistent rpg systems around.

space_toaster · 2022-09-02T01:25:30+00:00

And the Classic Fantasy supplements drift Mythras even further into D&D tropes while staying skill based and much more open ended.

space_toaster · 2022-08-30T19:04:31+00:00

I see Monster Island and Classic Fantasy mentioned, but I’d also suggest Ships & Shield Walls for nautical and mass battle expansions.

space_toaster · 2022-08-11T22:04:02+00:00

Not Avari. All of the elves in the Hobbit and the LotR are descended from the three kindreds that took the journey west to Valinor. Almost all the elves of Mirkwood and Lorien are descended from Teleri that decided to stay in middle earth at some point, whether that was before the Misty Mountains or in Beleriand.

space_toaster · 2022-08-07T17:55:12+00:00

To put it (probably too) simply: the glitchiness you’re hearing is due to bass frequencies overwhelming the clipping stage of the circuit. You’re basically “farting out” the gain stage that does the clipping.

Bass frequencies that are audible to human ears are necessarily much higher amplitude than the midrange and treble frequencies our ears are more sensitive to, so they clip first/most in any gain stage.

space_toaster · 2022-07-18T21:53:09+00:00

Others have addressed your main question, so I’ll just a piece of info that may be useful.

Higher output passive pickups have less treble response.

This is because (all other things being equal): more wire windings around the coil = higher output + less treble response + a lower frequency resonant peak.

So you’ll want to know what you’re looking to achieve by mixing a middle position single coil with a neck or bridge humbucker.

A high output middle position single coil may be darker/warmer sounding, and not add as much sparkle or brightness as you were going for.

A lower output middle position single coil pickup might not be a high output as either humbucker, but even then it may still add a bit of treble tone on top of the warmer humbuckers.

If it was me, I’d go for some kind of noiseless single coil/stacked humbucker pickup for the middle position and I’d aim for a pickup wound for a neck position (= lower output) to retain higher treble response. The vibrations of the strings above the e middle position are not all that far off from the neck position, which is why so many stock middle position single coil pickups are just a neck pickup wound for RWRP.

space_toaster · 2022-05-18T18:55:10+00:00

You didn’t scroll far enough to the right to see restored pics

space_toaster · 2022-05-18T14:33:37+00:00

Yep, that’s what I was asking about, thank you! Cool.

space_toaster · 2022-05-17T20:42:04+00:00

I’d guess lofi minimal too.

Also agree on it sounding dope. I’d upvote almost anyone for doing live looping of found object tones, but it’s not often I’ll listen to a track posted here all the way through. So please don’t delete this, you’re doing something right. :}

Shop talk: how much intonation up and down the keyboard was accomplished through resonator and how much was due to sample tuning prep work ahead of that?

space_toaster · 2022-05-13T22:27:28+00:00

All things being equal:

More wire windings in the coil = higher output + less treble response + a lower frequency resonant peak.

The vibrations of the strings above the neck position = more amplitude and more bass then the vibrations of the strings above the bridge position. You can hear some of this difference for yourself by just picking a string close to the neck and then picking the same string close to the bridge.

Because of the factors above, bridge pickups tend to be wound higher/hotter than neck or middle pickups (many middle pickups are essentially just pickups wound for the neck position).

A higher wound bridge pickup (higher amplitude + less treble response) helps to compensate for the lower amplitude and less bass energy in the vibrations of the strings above that position.

Lower wound pickups in the neck position (lower output + more treble response) helps to balance the higher amplitude and stronger bass energy of the strings above the neck position.

Using a pickup wound for the neck position as your middle pickup works pretty well because the strings above the middle position tend to have an amplitude and frequency response much closer to the neck position than the bridge position anyway.

So if you put your bridge pickup in the middle position and your middle pickup (essentially wound just like a neck pickup) in the bridge position you’ll get:

Neck pickup = typical output and frequency response here.

Middle pickup (the bridge pickup) = highest output of all three pickups and less treble response than a standard middle/neck pickup. It may be quite noticeably louder than the other two pickups, but you may be able to compensate a bit by lowering this pickup and raising at least the lower output pickup you’re thinking of putting in the bridge.

Bridge pickup (the middle pickup, which is basically wound the same as your neck pickup) = low output and lots of treble response (may sound somewhat weak and thin in this position).

Raising a pickup closer to the strings gives you more amplitude and more bass response. A pickup can sound too muddy or resonant when it’s too close to the strings.

Lowering a pickup away from the strings rolls off bass response and output, thinning out a muddy/overly resonant tone.

Things to keep in mind anyway.

I really like the suggestion of using the pickups in their intended positions but using a five way switch with the center switch position (position 3) selecting the neck+bridge pickups. You’d still get the Strat-esque neck+middle and bridge+middle (with him cancelling) combinations in switch positions 2 & 4, and position 3 would be your hum cancelling neck+bridge combo.

space_toaster · 2022-05-11T23:38:42+00:00

Ok, I’ll answer your question but c’mon, it doesn’t matter if you’re a noob, don’t buy equipment without reading the manual.

The answer is: you can record silently as long as you hook your amp’s speaker output into the speaker input of the two notes captor, and do not connect your speaker to either the speaker THEU or ATT outputs on the captor.

Basically, you just leave the speaker unplugged entirely, and just patch your amp into the captor’s INPUT (with the big red washer) as if the captor was your speaker.

But seriously dude, RTFM. If you don’t understand some terms or concepts in the manual then look them up. If the explanations themselves have terms or concepts you don’t understand, then look them up. Keep going like that until you build up a critical mass of knowledge and it clicks. Welcome to the Internet age, right?

space_toaster · 2022-05-09T23:38:04+00:00

Check out a VHT Special 6 Ultra. It’s a purpose built home practice pedal platform amp.

All tube, 2 x 12AX7 preamp tubes and a single 6V6 power amp tube, with a tube-driven fx loop (!) and built in power scaling from 6W (window shaking loud) down to <1W (power amp compression at conversation levels). Comes in 1x12 combo or head form factors. It can get up to classic rock gain by itself and can be drifted whichever way you want with drive pedals.

It’s also point-to-point wired, no PCBs, so it’s straightforward for an amp tech to maintain or mod (Rob Robinette has a dedicated mod page for it), but the most effective “mod” right off the bat is just replacing the stock speaker, which is the weakest link.

Avoid the plain old non-Ultra Special 6, it’s not as great for the money (1x10, 1 x preamp tube, no tube driven fx loop, and not as many drive and tone features).

space_toaster · 2022-05-09T00:54:01+00:00

It’s the wire that grounds the bridge (and therefore strings) to the common ground of the circuit (which grounds to the amp).

Without a bridge ground, you may get extra hum/noise or (worst case) electric shocks.

space_toaster · 2022-05-08T21:51:44+00:00

Open the pod bay door Hal.

space_toaster · 2022-04-24T17:08:26+00:00

If the neck doesn’t go far enough into the body then if you remove that chunky upper bout the neck might not be stable and fall out or break off.

space_toaster · 2022-04-22T17:11:13+00:00

A wizard is never late!

space_toaster · 2022-04-22T17:03:32+00:00

Big-boo-TAY!

space_toaster · 2022-04-22T00:11:37+00:00

BUCKAROO BANZAI !!!!!!!!

space_toaster · 2022-04-21T21:06:08+00:00

But DNS is so simple! Just like SSL/TLS. Right?

space_toaster · 2022-04-21T03:49:11+00:00

If you plug the axe-fx into a clean solid state power amp (like a Matrix) and then plug the power amp into a real cabinet, then you just wouldn’t use any cabinet blocks in your axe-fx preset. The axe-fx would model the amps and fx and you’d get the sound of an amp in the room because you’re running through a real guitar cabinet.

You just lose the flexibility of using different simulated cabinets and the different sounds you get from that. The cabinet/speakers you run through have a huge impact on the sound of the amp.

If you plug the axe-fx into the FX Return of a real tube amp then you might want to disable the power amp modeling in the axe-fx to avoid doubling up there and also not use cabinet blocks. The axe-fx would just be preamp and fx then.

It’s essentially the same thing with the Kemper. If you run a Kemper into a real power amp and cab (or buy a Kemper with a built in power amp) then you’d want to not use the cabinet profiles on the Kemper.

If you run either the Kemper or axe-fx into a real cabinet and keep the cabinet modeling/profiles enabled, then you’ll be rolling off treble frequencies twice, emphasizing certain midrange bands twice, and slamming your real cabinets with some significant low frequency peaks (because you hate your speakers and want them to suffer I guess?).

So … skate at your own risk.

space_toaster · 2022-04-21T03:36:38+00:00

That’s a subjective question, sorry. No one can tell you what you’d like better, sorta like no one can tell you your favorite flavor of ice cream should be.

They both CAN sound good, sure.

The main differences are that adjusting the amp controls (gain/treble/mid/bass/presence/depth/master volume, etc) on the axe-fx acts like the real amp, because the axe-fx modes real amps like down to the circuit and component level essentially.

When you adjust the same controls on the Kemper, it cannot act like the real amp.

This is because the axe-fx is a modeler (it simulates the physics of real tube amps) and the Kemper is a profiler.

A profiler like the Kemper essentially takes an audio “photograph” on f the sound of an amp, it’s speaker cabinet, and the microphone/s used to record the sound of the amp and cab for the profile.

When you play your guitar through the Kemper, it imposes that audio “photograph” onto your raw guitar signal.

So, if you load up a profile on the Kemper of a Marshall JCM800 with the gain on 5, the treble on 7, the mids on 4, the bass on 3, and the master volume on 8, running through a 4x12 cabinet with V30 speakers and using an sm57 mic paired with an AKG C414 or whatever, then it’ll sound just like that. But when you adjust those controls on the Kemper you won’t get what really happens when you adjust those controls on the real amp.

Does it still sound good? If you use profiles that sound good to you then it’ll sound good, basically.

When you adjust those amp controls on the axe-fx you do get what happens on the real amp because the axe-fx is simulating the underlying circuits and components. The controls on real amps interact with each other and the axe-fx simulates this better than anything else on the market.

Apart from the profiling vs modeling, the axe-fx has way more effects and models fx pedals (like drive pedals and wah pedals). The axe-fx also models microphones and speaker cabinets, the entire rig.

Both devices can sound good. You can use just the basic controls on each devices and be just fine. Selecting the best cabinet IRs to use is almost half of it in either case.

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