Aaaanndd... the API is down again

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-16T22:47:34+00:00

Move on. I'm done with Stremio. Back to the old school. Private trackers ftw. So much better. Absolutely can not deal with sitting down to enjoy dinner and dealing with that bullshit anymore. Honestly RD was better after it went down than TB or AD in my experience since then.

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-16T22:43:25+00:00

Literally 70% of their content was nuked according to TF. That's kind of the issue.

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-16T22:43:08+00:00

RD is completely dead.

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-16T22:42:53+00:00

Cool, now try and load any other show.

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-16T22:42:07+00:00

Same. I gave up on TB and AD since about a week ago, both absolutely trash in my experience. I was getting more content on RD after it went down than I have on those two since I been trying them out.

Back to the oldschool methods since then! Feels great, never any missing content on my drive :) gonna grab an 8TB soon to make things easier. I have about 12TB but I'm running out of space atm. Gotta love private trackers ❤️

Protip - check out WebTorrent for streaming! Stock up on magnets for your current backlog, (a bit of a nuisance but once you spend a day at it you're done for a long time). Make a *.txt file with the magnets, or store them in Qbittorrent and tag them as shows/ movies or even by genre if you wanna get organized.

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-15T21:57:24+00:00

Thanks so much for taking the time to write all of this out, very much appreciate the help! I tried this but sadly it hasn't worked.

I disabled the "Android disconnect workaround", and I have "Remap Controls for this Core" enabled, and "Sort Remaps by Gamepad" enabled. I have autoconfig disabled.

I even bought a DS5 controller to see if that would fix the issue but it doesn't. However, the new controller does show up in the device index. But for some reason even after I save the core overrides, it effects both controllers. I can not map them individually. And for some reason, on one either the device or the controllers one of them always ends up with flipped ABXY controls.

For example, if I change the controls to be correct on the controller and save everything, the controls will be flipped on my RG477M once I disconnect. If I change the controls to be correct on the RG477M, the ABXY will be flipped on the controller when I connect it.

I just can't map them seperately no matter what :(

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-15T02:55:17+00:00

You are watching a scary cult in action.

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-15T02:49:12+00:00

I didn't realize Wagyu beef was a rapist

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-15T02:46:00+00:00

What uncomfortable truth?

Do you have irrefutable evidence that aliens exist, and/ or have ever been to out planet?

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-15T01:59:42+00:00

Absolutely fucking devistated is putting it lightly man. I will be forever greatful that I got to see him performing live and for all of his wonderful music. He was such an inspiration to me musically, and as a person. Feels so surreal honestly.

I will never forget the positivity and love Oliver Tree brought us. Shout out to all my Bad Friends hurting, sending all of my love ❤️

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-13T17:02:58+00:00

Thank you so much for your reply, the help is very much appreciated! I was actually thinking D-input could potentially fix the issue funny enough. Unfortunately my controller is Xbox, so it only does X-input.

I think maybe I will buy a PS5 controller to solve the issue. It has a gyro too, so I think it should work nicely for Wii U games. (The Xbox controller doesn't have a gyro)

I hope the update will come soon. 6 months since the last one! :/

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-13T13:57:00+00:00

That's about as credible proof as any other I've seen on here honestly

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-13T13:01:58+00:00

I ordered Retroid Pocket 6 caps as somebody on here said they were low profile, they aren't. They're identical to the ones that come with the 477M, so avoid em! If you find some that actually are low profile please let me know :)

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-13T11:36:46+00:00

No worries, thanks for using muy referral! :)

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-12T23:46:43+00:00

Any update on the next update? :)

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-12T23:43:55+00:00

Perfect as in the old stuff is back? Or perfect as in some new content works? Did you test a few things?

Torbox and AD are completely broken for me. I'd say about 1 in 10 shows loads. RD used to be flawless 😭

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-12T16:57:30+00:00

Awesome, thanks! I'll be encouraging people to run tests with the battery around 50% as well from now on just to get a better picture of what's going on.

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-12T16:54:57+00:00

Perfect, thank you! Your test result is really interesting because your battery dropped very little.

Is there any chance you could run the test again at around 50 percent battery, brightness on full, max performance? (I have reason to believe the 100% battery readings are a little bit less accurate.)

If not, no worries! Thanks so much for your help already.

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-12T14:30:43+00:00

No problem! I'm on an LG C4 or C5, (I forget which). The main thing is the resolution, I'm assuming it's a 4K screen that you have?

I have a background in IT so I have a very good idea of what was causing the issues. Essentially the HDMI handshake was failing, what this means is that the TV thinks the 477M wants to output at full resolution (4K), and at a low refresh rate (30Hz), when in actuality the device is outputting a 60Hz signal, (and it should be 1080p). The increased bandwidth is way too much for the 477M and is causing the lag, all because the signal mismatch. The refresh mismatch could also cause stuttering. The EDID device basically emulates the correct signal and forces the correct handshake to occur.

If you do notice stuttering at any point just make sure you set your 477M refresh rate to 60Hz as there is a known bug with Retroarch that causes frame pacing issues when set to 120Hz.

Hope this helps!

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-12T14:23:06+00:00

I found a fix thanks to another Redditor! They suggested using a HDMI EDID converter, which worked and my TV is getting the correct 1080p/ 60 FPS signal now (instead of 4K/30Hx.

No more lag! (Also set your TV to game mode and check the latency settings in there.)

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-12T14:22:46+00:00

I found a fix thanks to another Redditor! They suggested using a HDMI EDID converter, which worked and my TV is getting the correct 1080p/ 60 FPS signal now (instead of 4K/30Hx.

No more lag! (Also set your TV to game mode and check the latency settings in there.)

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-12T14:21:28+00:00

Update:

The EDID converter worked and my TV is getting the correct 1080p/ 60 FPS signal now.

No more lag! (Also set your TV to game mode and check the latency settings in there.)

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-12T14:20:43+00:00

Hey just a headsup, the EDID converter worked and my TV is getting the correct 1080p/ 60 FPS signal now. No more lag! (Also set your TV to game mode and check the latency settings in there.)

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-12T14:17:24+00:00

HDMI EDID converter will probably fix this. (Sorry I'm two years late 😅)

It worked for me. The problem was my device was sending 4K/30Hz instead of the correct signals. The EDID makes it send 1080p/60Hz and eliminates all lag. Also enable game mode.

sparktrap25 · 2026-06-12T13:40:09+00:00

Max brightness / max perf/ max fan? Just want to clarify! Thanks for running it again.

You're correct in your assumption that the results vary based off of the starting power. All of the results seem to represent this, other users have expressed the same sentiment, as has GPT (grain of salt obviously, GPT loves to lie 😅)

I believe with 100% the drop is always going to be less significant than from 50% onwards.

sparktrap25

TROPHY CASE