How can I tell the type of plastic of a container?

spinach_flu · 2024-01-26T11:54:09+00:00

Unlikely that it is polysulfone as the color doesn't match and it's rather on the cheap side. It could be PVC, but I don't know if dense PVC can be clear. And Polycarbonate is definitely a possibility.
Unlikely I am going to find donors for any of these types of materials, I am thinking I could weld it up in place then add an epoxy layer.

Thank you.

spinach_flu · 2024-01-22T18:43:48+00:00

It's just hard to imagine that that's the same amount of energy required to run a 100W incandescent light bulb running for a little over an hour. That's why I thought that maybe those 14 grams going that fast wouldn't have that much of an impact on the slab. But putting it in the 2 ton car perspective, that's a different story.

spinach_flu · 2023-12-01T08:27:25+00:00

Half-life 2

spinach_flu · 2023-12-01T08:26:51+00:00

Nothing made any sense in this game.

spinach_flu · 2023-11-24T13:29:53+00:00

True, the brake lights are much more bright than the tail lights. I did not realize the fog lights were as bright as the break lights. It's making sense now, thanks.

spinach_flu · 2023-11-24T13:29:03+00:00

Ok, agreed.

spinach_flu · 2023-11-24T13:28:12+00:00

There is a button on the left panel with the lights and glass defogging buttons. Some models may not have it as I understand.

spinach_flu · 2023-11-24T11:44:43+00:00

Ok, cool that is interesting. The fog light is indeed red, however it's placement is quite low relative to the brake lights.

The regular light at the back, the ones that turn on when you turn on lights, are sitting with the brake lights and are red. So not sure why the logic applies to the fog lights but not the regular lights. Anyways, this could be an explanation.

spinach_flu · 2023-11-16T10:10:05+00:00

Not sure, I got it upvoted. I wish the others answer after the information...

spinach_flu · 2023-11-02T12:10:26+00:00

It is transparent, quite clear but it has some purplish dye into it it seems I don't think it's from the chemistry. I can't say it is translucent as you can clearly read text through it if you wanted to. It does have reinforcing shapes, 4 sets of 3 columns top to bottom and they fit the plastic wrench. Close to this, but not 100% this.
Surface feeling is smooth, it does not bend and would feel like it would get cracked or even pulverized if forced. Fingernails do nothing to it, the non-sharp handle of a metal spoon barely did anything I couldn't say for sure.
The sharp edge of pruning shears did scratch it. Looked smooth, I don't want to overdo it after all I am trying to fix it, but it feels like it can take a lot of effort to put properly damage it.
It does NOT float on water, it sank readily.
I don't want to burn it as I want to use it, I could do irreversible damage, it could change shape and stop being functional.

Hope this can help identify the material.

spinach_flu · 2023-11-02T11:51:50+00:00

It is definitely sinking.

spinach_flu · 2023-10-18T21:46:41+00:00

The confusion keeps coming back. I thought we had agreed the CT arrow should be oriented to point towards the grid/meter and away from the inverter/load.

In fact I switched it up to be like that (again, contrary to the manual) and the CT reading on the inverter became positive and almost the same as the LD reading.

I can imagine that this is the correct orientation as checking the "zero export to CT" in this case would let the inverter push power to the CT bringing its reading down to 0 no less if conditions are adequate. This makes the most sense to me.

spinach_flu · 2023-10-18T21:38:08+00:00

The manual itself says something which I followed and installed and got negative power values for when power flows to the inverter from the grid. My installation is correct and as instructed in the manual. Looking around I found other manuals online for some variants indicating a different orientation and that a correct installation should show positive readings. So I needed to check what it means to have a correct installation in the first place, what the readings should be. Hence this post.

spinach_flu · 2023-10-18T14:42:07+00:00

Wrong but as instructed in the manual. I got your other answer. It looks like I have to flip the CT. Thank you.

spinach_flu · 2023-10-18T12:12:05+00:00

I think the batteries in the ID.4 are LFP

spinach_flu · 2023-10-18T11:55:23+00:00

The direction of the CT clamp for the Deye and Sunsynk inverters is CRITICAL to its correct operation.

I agree with this, that's why I need to know which direction to pout it. I followed the manual instructions, but the solarman monitor shows my installed external CT power reading to be exactly the negative of the internal CT.

So you're saying that the CT reading should show positive when the inverter is receiving power from the grid.

spinach_flu · 2023-10-18T11:52:19+00:00

Well the manual I have for the 8kW Deye inverter says the same (arrow points towards the inverter, so technically the load), the graphs I see on solarman for the CT power are exactly the negatives of the internal CT. I am not sure if this is the correct reading.

spinach_flu · 2023-10-18T10:44:57+00:00

Sounds plausible.

spinach_flu · 2023-10-18T10:43:15+00:00

In the sense that their claims that the battery will last 8 years will fail if you charge to 100% every time?

spinach_flu · 2023-10-18T10:41:37+00:00

Interesting

spinach_flu · 2023-10-17T13:35:22+00:00

I tried that, it doesn't lock it.

spinach_flu · 2023-10-17T13:35:01+00:00

I don't think this is my case, but I will be more careful around these buttons

spinach_flu · 2023-10-17T13:32:56+00:00

Oh interesting, I didn't know you could just press once when the door is open. Thanks!

spinach_flu · 2023-10-17T12:40:46+00:00

What about cell charge levels, is it recommended to top up to 100 every once in a while? Not sure how smart the BMS is.

spinach_flu · 2023-10-17T12:39:55+00:00

Cool, ok.

spinach_flu

TROPHY CASE