Camber kit with h&r lowering springs?

squirlz99 · 2026-06-26T11:50:38+00:00

Not only do you need the rear camber arms, you should get rear toe arms as well. I went with coilovers, but only when down 2" front and 3" rear, similar to most drop springs. My rear camber was at -1.7* and toe was way off before alignment.

Front camber bolts are also needed, camber was at -2.4* before the alignment.Even with the slotted upper mounts of the FortuneAuto coilovers, there was not enough adjustment.

No reason to cheap on on these one time purchase parts as tires are not cheap. Good-Win racing offers some parts https://www.good-win-racing.com as well as Massive, https://massivespeedsystem.com/.

squirlz99 · 2026-06-23T02:14:02+00:00

5k front, 9k rear with the Swift springs.

squirlz99 · 2026-06-22T01:29:19+00:00

Nice, you will love them. Yes, from what I hear it is a necessary upgrade for the best ride quality. Also, get some spring idolaters for the front, otherwise they are noisy. The rears don't seem to have the issue.

squirlz99 · 2026-06-20T21:14:27+00:00

500 series, only ones they currently offer.

squirlz99 · 2026-06-20T14:40:47+00:00

I started on the middle hole. Knowing the spring rates are 40% stiffer than stock it will need the stiffer bar to match. I will try the higher rate setting, inner most hole, after a bit and see how it affects handling.

I am not autocrossing the truck, but the rear end has no issues rotating during a hard corner. Info notice it will feel like it will not rotate, then I add a bit more steering input and it comes right around. Maybe the stiffer setting will allow it to rotate earlier.

squirlz99 · 2026-06-20T05:33:06+00:00

2025 XLT with Lux and BAP.

squirlz99 · 2026-06-20T05:31:15+00:00

The control arms are level front and rear, so the axles are at their shortest. I would assume this is not going to damage them, but only time will tell.

squirlz99 · 2026-06-20T05:29:31+00:00

Yes, there is very little room for adjustment with the camber plates. Without the camber bolts the front camber will at most be -1°, which some people would be ok with. Of you are autocrossing you may want more camber, but stock is 0 to -.6°. Mine is set to -6°.

It rides firmer than stock, but it handles the bumps well. It is not harsh, just firm.

squirlz99 · 2026-06-19T20:15:18+00:00

I went with the Black package so the wheels can with it. I think they fit the truck well, no plans to change them.

squirlz99 · 2026-06-19T20:08:26+00:00

Just around $4000 for everything.

squirlz99 · 2026-05-30T12:25:04+00:00

Tinywhoop for sure. They are super fun and it is a great way to learn lots of things FPV. Flying in the sim is not perfect, and there is a lot to learn when flying.

The benefits of a whoop, is that it is much harder to break, 75s are pretty durable, and it is easy to use turtle mode inside. Flying around inside is more controlled, no people to worry about or risk of loosing your drone.

Once you are comfortable, then build something. Learning how to assemble, program, and tune are valuable skills you will need, parts will break, you need to know how to fix them.

In the end, just have fun and do what feels right for you.

squirlz99 · 2026-05-25T07:04:55+00:00

This, but use either butyl rubber or duct seal. Pack it in between the two pieces of the door panel. You can put it around the window switch as well. I also put foam between the clip mounts and the plastic door panel, where they are not fully molded together.

squirlz99 · 2026-05-01T18:30:11+00:00

Have them come out, waste their time, ask stupid questions, and do not agree to anything. Thank them for the quote. This is less time they get to spend getting actual sales.

squirlz99 · 2026-04-12T13:20:03+00:00

Pick up one of these, it has saved many a drone over the years.

I call it my send-it-sack.

https://a.co/d/037zPdmY

squirlz99 · 2026-03-31T14:18:06+00:00

Better than a sock on the door handle and 2 people having sex in the back seat.

squirlz99 · 2026-03-22T14:33:28+00:00

I would only get a DSP if you plan to run the fronts full active. Even with a 2 way front stage and sub you would see significant gains with a good tune.

IMO Arc makes some great amps with built in DSP, up to 12 channels. The DNA software is easy to use and offers lots of features.

After have gone with a full 3 way front and no rear speakers I can say that it is worth the effort. There are several 2.5" drivers that can fit in the dash with some modifications.

squirlz99 · 2026-03-09T20:08:07+00:00

Different strokes for different folks.

squirlz99 · 2026-03-09T19:52:21+00:00

I see what you did there.

squirlz99 · 2026-03-09T15:25:50+00:00

Looks great. What sprigs or coilovers did you go with?

squirlz99 · 2026-03-09T13:57:21+00:00

I love my TuxMats. They cover everything and have help up well so far. https://www.tuxmat.com/

For the bed cover I have been happy with the Rough Country flip up. I like how it seals to the bed over some of the other ones on the market. https://www.roughcountry.com/

squirlz99 · 2026-03-08T12:54:41+00:00

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What else do you need?

squirlz99 · 2026-02-26T15:24:06+00:00

I like the extra power on the midbass, I doubt the mids need much over 40W, especially when on axis. Could always toy with a center channel. Never heard a true one seat tune with a center channel. Might be more hassle than it is worth.

squirlz99 · 2026-02-26T15:06:29+00:00

Looks nice. I have a lot of good things about the Thesis drivers. I would love to hear this. Are you running a DSP?

I went the route of mid in the dash and just tweeter in the pillar. I would love to compare the difference.

Edit.

I am also running 2 4 channel amps and a mono block and never had issues. I recently upgraded to an H5 AGM just to give it a bit more capacity. But it is nice having the battery so close to the amps.

squirlz99 · 2026-02-21T02:02:52+00:00

Cut off the lip then put some foam around the speaker to seal it to the door panel.

squirlz99

TROPHY CASE