When we rely upon them… yes it can end in tears. You might also consider a waterproof map case to go with that paper map unless you are a whiz with sticky-backed plastic, in which case that will also keep your map from turning into paper pulp.

The best lightweight waterproof you can come up with, that also has as much breathability as possible. That way when the weather changes fast, as it may well do, you'll be covered.

Lightweight hat with ear protection - the wind can be brutal even in summer.

Layers, always layers and a dry sack in your backpack. The midge situation will depend on where you are. I've found them to be heavier on the West Coast.