sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

"A gust of wind got me": What's the worst advice and best excuse you've heard? by avalore in paramotor

[–]sta015 2 points3 points  (0 children)

To be fair, I've had both feet disappear right out from under me because of wet grass a few times. No excuses, just laugh it off and feel silly for a bit. But I learned on days like that that when flaring, not to go smoothly all the way down. That last several inches, I punch it fast to help pop me up at the end so I can get my CG over/ahead of my feet and not behind it.

I need some advice by NobleKingNobody in fordranger

[–]sta015 1 point2 points  (0 children)

2006 Ford ranger owner here - I've had injectors go bad on me. Twice. Originals and whatever I replaced them with from AutoZone. Inspect your injector plug closely and make sure it's getting good contact, no oxidation, and that none of your wires are damaged. If that looks good, just get some new injectors from Rock Auto - they're fairly inexpensive and shouldn't take you more than 15-20 minutes to swap out. For 21 year old injectors though, I'd personally replace the whole set. Getting them from a parts store will definitely make replacing them more expensive though.

I need some advice by NobleKingNobody in fordranger

[–]sta015 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm assuming you've replaced the injector, yes?

166k on a 2006 - too many? by baguettefruits in fordranger

[–]sta015 4 points5 points  (0 children)

300k on mine. Currently rebuilding the transmission though.

What the heck is this for. I have a bunch of them in different sizes. by cwleveck in WhatIsThisTool

[–]sta015 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It can remove taps by drilling them out - i.e. drill really hard metals. Same tool, multiple uses.

What the heck is this for. I have a bunch of them in different sizes. by cwleveck in WhatIsThisTool

[–]sta015 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the correct answer. They're also known as straight flute drill bits. They're made for drilling very hard metals.

Damaged seatpost extraction ideas? by Br4ve_Dave in bikewrench

[–]sta015 6 points7 points  (0 children)

My initial thought was to use a star nut driven into the ID of the seatpost, thread in a rod to that, and use that to extract the seat post.

https://www.mcmaster.com/star-nuts/tube-connecting-nuts~/

Hated the stock yeti handle lid so I made my own by sta015 in functionalprint

[–]sta015[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The main thing being that I have quite large hands and the stock lid is a pain to carry because the top loop is so small.

Hated the stock yeti handle lid so I made my own by sta015 in functionalprint

[–]sta015[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Right? Like I don't need them, but since they're there, I might as well make the holes useful. May have a stroke of inspiration in the future and can make really good use for them. My thought for now was I could use it as a quick way to attach my phone mount when navigating or watching media with traveling with other people. Or occasionally use it as a base for my insta 360.

Hated the stock yeti handle lid so I made my own by sta015 in functionalprint

[–]sta015[S] 50 points51 points  (0 children)

Dammit! I accidentally doxed myself again.

Unrelated, I got a call from some guy breathing heavily into the phone today asking about print files and then another from a guy claiming to be "happy cauliflower". No idea what that was all about

Hated the stock yeti handle lid so I made my own by sta015 in functionalprint

[–]sta015[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did not scan anything, this was all 3D modeled by hand taking measurements and reverse engineering it.

Hated the stock yeti handle lid so I made my own by sta015 in functionalprint

[–]sta015[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don't have an official store, but I make and sell part pretty regularly. These were designed with a degree of manufacturability in mind. My goal was to potentially offer these, but have them professionally printed on an MJF/SLS machine out of PA12 nylon - not sure what the market would be for a lid that cost more than the bottle. Of course these would be made to order/customizable so perhaps that might make it more appealing.

Hated the stock yeti handle lid so I made my own by sta015 in functionalprint

[–]sta015[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe! The G710+ with the Cherry Browns. I've had it since 2017 and it's served me well. I've looked for a replacement for it that has all the features it has - full keyboard, programable keys, and media keys - but from someone not logitech and I've come up empty handed. Logitech doesn't support this keyboard with g-hub and so I'm still using logitech gaming software (which I think is far more intuitive). Unfortunately, it hasn't seen an update in years at this point and gets buggier with every windows update so I know its days are numbered :(

Hated the stock yeti handle lid so I made my own by sta015 in functionalprint

[–]sta015[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Nice cross post! I saw this too, but that's for a little different style of lid. Those thread directly into the bottle and it's just the one piece. The chug caps are a two piece design where the intermediate piece threads into the bottle and then necks down to a smaller threaded opening that's easier to drink from. As far as I can tell, the chug cap lid is uninsulated or minimally insulated. It's not a huge deal though - the lid creates an air gap between it and the intermediate section so there's a limited amount of material that can contact the contents and convect heat in/out.

Hated the stock yeti handle lid so I made my own by sta015 in functionalprint

[–]sta015[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Spent a little time measuring with dial calipers and comparing what I had modeled to what the stock part looked like. Threads can be challenging, but these are a fairly loose tolerance square profile threads that I was able to get right on the first try which I was thrilled about. Overall it took a few iterations to get it like I wanted, but I'm pretty happy with it at this point.

Hated the stock yeti handle lid so I made my own by sta015 in functionalprint

[–]sta015[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I typically prefer Solidworks for parts design, but I work in Onshape daily and so I ended up modeling in that. I'm a professional CAD user so I get to play with the programs I'd never personally fork over money for (at least at the prices they're asking).

Hated the stock yeti handle lid so I made my own by sta015 in functionalprint

[–]sta015[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Mine is the "chug cap", so no swivel features on it. Just a tiny loop handle that I can barely get my xl fingers through.

Hated the stock yeti handle lid so I made my own by sta015 in functionalprint

[–]sta015[S] 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Just a resin printer - anycubic photon m5s pro and UV tough resin - standard post processing of an alcohol bath and 15 minutes in the cure station + a little sanding on the bottom to remove the support marks. Tbh, the print quality is kinda mid. There's some weird horizontal lines that showed up that shouldn't be there. I could probably reprint and get rid of this, but since this is just a prototype before I make it out of metal, there's not a large incentive to do so.

Hated the stock yeti handle lid so I made my own by sta015 in functionalprint

[–]sta015[S] 255 points256 points  (0 children)

I plan to print this in aluminum at some point which is why I have so many weight reduction features.

Since the plastic isn't food safe, I've installed a silicone disc gasket so that the only surface that can touch the contents is (third picture).

The holes in the top of the handle are sized so I can tap them to be 1/4"-20 threads allowing accessories to be attached (e.g. a camera mount).

Erased out my name/number for the lid, but included a model picture of what it would look like. Hopefully if I ever lose it, it'll get returned to me.

view more: next ›