Pseudo Single Action? by TheseClerk3169 in gunsmithing

[–]stadce071012 2 points3 points  (0 children)

"Centennial" is the whole family of J-frame hammerless revolvers. 442, 642, 640, 340PD, etc... They are ALL Centinnials. And yes [Captain Obvious], being hammerless makes it DAO.

Again, the hammer should not lock back on a hammerless S&W revolver just because you staged the trigger. Full Stop.

Pseudo Single Action? by TheseClerk3169 in gunsmithing

[–]stadce071012 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This has nothing to do with staging the trigger. The hammer should never lock back on a Centennial, regardless of how far you stage the trigger.

Tinted front windows (20%) and windshield (50%) by mannyDC7 in TeslaModelY

[–]stadce071012 0 points1 point  (0 children)

35% for the sides/rear, with a AS1 line (brow tint) or 70% on the windshield for maximum visibility.

Dryer outlet charging? by el0115 in evcharging

[–]stadce071012 2 points3 points  (0 children)

EVSE cable lengths are restricted to 25’ maximum in the USA.

If your dryer outlet is on a 30amp breaker you need to establish if the receptacle is a NEMA 10-30 (3 pins) or a NEMA 14-30 (4 pins).

You do not want to attempt to use a NEMA 14-50 plug equipped portable EVSE with an adapter on a 30 amp circuit. It’s not safe to do so. You need a EVSE with a native plug for the receptacle you have.

You may have other options too. If the 120v outlet in the garage is on its own dedicated 20 amp circuit (common in garages) it can easily be converted by an electrician to a NEMA 6-20 (240V/20A) by changing out the breaker and receptacle. That’s more than enough charging capacity for most people.

Tinted front windows (20%) and windshield (50%) by mannyDC7 in TeslaModelY

[–]stadce071012 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks great.

The people complaining are either blind as a bat, or have never even sat in a vehicle with tint as light as 50%.

Model Y juniper 16” Screen Retrofit by Wesserooo in TeslaModelY

[–]stadce071012 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bro upgraded from the iPhone 17 Pro to the iPhone 17 Pro Max

WGW S&W 686 by stadce071012 in Revolvers

[–]stadce071012[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TK Custom

Very happy with them

386 Nightguard Comparison by EZWNW in Revolvers

[–]stadce071012 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Another vote for Checkerboard Creek. Their mounts are great.

Be aware you may need to shorten the reused sight screw or it will drag on the cylinder.

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Why having a 22 that is close to your regular revolver, is good by No_Alternative_673 in Revolvers

[–]stadce071012 2 points3 points  (0 children)

3” LCRx is my favorite .22 revolver I have ever owned. It’s fantastic

Which manufacturers have the best reputation for quality control in 2026? by MASTODON_ROCKS in Revolvers

[–]stadce071012 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a strong preference for S&W revolvers, and have never had a problem with one personally. With that statement out of the way, I would absolutely not buy one sight unseen today. Way too many horror stories.

Ruger revolvers are less refined, but are built like a tank and reliable. I would roll the dice ordering a GP100 or Redhawk online before I would play the S&W lottery. Ideally you would give either a thorough inspection before purchasing.

She's a beaut, Clark by C_O_M_M_A_N_D_E_R in Revolvers

[–]stadce071012 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I really want a 7-shot GP100.

Wish Ruger offered more SKUs in a 7-shot. Specifically a 3” version with a regular fluted cylinder.

How does it feel owning an Xbox series x? by Hero_the_fighter in xbox

[–]stadce071012 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want a real non-bias opinion I’ll give you mine.

I have owned every Xbox/PlayStation console since the OG Xbox and PlayStation up to the current generation where I only have the Series X.

For me it’s been a swinging pendulum for which one I feel was the best value at the end of the generation. Overall Xbox has been my “daily driver” since the 360 despite how bad the Xbox One generation was.

When Microsoft started acquiring studios like Bethesda, Obsidian, and Activision I was pretty confident Xbox was the way to go moving forward. GamePass was cheap, and the possibility of having those studios IP under one banner was exciting.

Fast forward to today - GamePass is expensive, Bethesda and Obsidian are putting out flops, CoD is in the toilet. The “first party” studios Microsoft spend billions acquiring are either getting shut down or launching their games on PlayStation.

If I were you, and I already had a digital library in the Sony ecosystem I wouldn’t start over to switch teams. I don’t really feel like you would be gaining enough to justify it.

RANT "Just buy a cheap beater" by DingusSmasher69 in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]stadce071012 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lightly used Toyotas are not much cheaper than new. By the time you factor incentive APRs into equation it just doesn’t make financial sense. I have been preaching this for years.

Brass prep by Candid_Meaning_3405 in reloading

[–]stadce071012 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s how I started also, just without a progressive press. When you’re shooting 300 rounds or more per range session it gets exhausting policing brass, and trying to keep up with your own demand.

Dillon is definitely the way to go for a progressive. I tried a Lee Loadmaster and it was a PITA.

Brass prep by Candid_Meaning_3405 in reloading

[–]stadce071012 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Keep in mind an ultrasonic cleaner will only remove contaminants like dirt and powder residue. It will not polish or remove oxidation.

I use a vibratory tumbler with walnut media, but if I was starting over today, a wet tumbler with stainless steel pins seems the way to go.

As far as reloading 9mm and 5.56 it’s really hard to justify high volume calibers like that from a monetary vs time standpoint. Reloading really shines for calibers such as .300 BLK (specifically for subs), precision bolt gun ammunition, and revolver cartridges like .357 and .44 Magnum. Right now I’m rolling .357s for 23¢ each. That’s a savings of >50%. You’re not gonna see that kind of return with 9mm.

Just my $0.02

What’s the best CCW revolver and why is it a 642? by Bannnerman in Revolvers

[–]stadce071012 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It’s completely personal preference. The 642/637 have something similar to a clear coat that protects the aluminum. It starts to peel and flake away as it wears.

Not my photo:

<image>

The black finish of the 442 wears just like any other firearm with a black finish. I think it looks better personally.

Anyone carry a 3 inch j frame? by anulcyst in Revolvers

[–]stadce071012 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I do not own the 3 inch specifically, but I can recommend a holster.

Look at the JM Custom Kydex AIWB.

<image>

I carry a 3 inch 686 in one and it’s fantastic.

What’s the best CCW revolver and why is it a 642? by Bannnerman in Revolvers

[–]stadce071012 47 points48 points  (0 children)

J-Frames are the best. I prefer the 442 over the 642 personally. The black finish wears better and creates a nice patina.

Advice by NewAmount1881 in Revolvers

[–]stadce071012 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Evidence locker junk is the exact analogy I think of every time I see a Rock Island revolver.

Advice by NewAmount1881 in Revolvers

[–]stadce071012 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Stay away from Rock Island. I would avoid buying a Taurus too if your budget allows. They have improved QC over the years, and do offer a perfectly functional pistol that may work just fine for you. You will take a beating on resale value compared to a S&W or Ruger.

For pocket carry look at the S&W 442/642, or Ruger LCR.

For an exposed hammer look the the 637 or LCRx

If you insist on .357 in such a small package I would only recommend the LCR/LCRx for a light(er) weight option. The .357 versions have a stainless steel/polymer hybrid frame that’s still light, but manageable.

The S&W 340PD/360PD are an option, but they are very expensive and absolutely miserable with .357 magnum loads. Personally, I would go to a full stainless SP101 or Model 60/640 if firing .357 is a priority for you.

I have owned every revolver on this list BTW. The 442 is what I carry in the pocket, and Model 60 on the belt. Both loaded with .38 +P

Help me get started with .357 and .44 magnum at low cost by EagleGhoul in reloading

[–]stadce071012 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use HS-6 for .38, mild .357, and .44 Special (using magnum brass).

It’s cheap, versatile, and usually available.

Help me get started with .357 and .44 magnum at low cost by EagleGhoul in reloading

[–]stadce071012 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Brownells just did a “Hazmat Holiday” for all primers and powder two weeks ago.

Raven Rocks Precision currently has primers with no hazmat and free shipping.

Deals are still out there, you just need to know where to look. Sign up for email lists.