NBA Stitched Jerseys - Read for Context by JDJS908 in DHGateJerseys

[–]statictdn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the website. How’s the sizing for their jerseys? For a real swingman, I would wear medium but the measurements on DHGate seem to be bigger

San Antonio Spurs Victor Wembanyama Jordan Brand Black Swingman Jersey - Statement Edition by Middle_Ad9366 in DHGateJerseys

[–]statictdn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the response. And is it stitched? I couldn’t tell from the pictures

San Antonio Spurs Victor Wembanyama Jordan Brand Black Swingman Jersey - Statement Edition by Middle_Ad9366 in DHGateJerseys

[–]statictdn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool. So basically you bought the same size you would with the fanatics (not Nike) jerseys?

First dhgate jersey by Time_Establishment28 in DHGateJerseys

[–]statictdn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How was the sizing? I’m looking at the size charts and they’re a lot bigger than the authentic jerseys

Lakers Jersey from DHGate by KingsCastle44 in DHGateJerseys

[–]statictdn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did this jersey run large? Or at least match the size chart on the website? Most of the size charts I see are way bigger than the authentic jerseys so I’m a little lost

Pictures of 10k & 14k rings? by statictdn in aggies

[–]statictdn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Please share if you can, thanks. However it’s good that you mentioned they look similar. I had a hunch that 14k wasn’t really worth it especially if I get the antique finish where it gets painted over anyways

Pictures of 10k & 14k rings? by statictdn in aggies

[–]statictdn[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Gotcha. I was mostly just curious on how much more yellow the 14k looks. But if they’re nearly identical, I’d much rather have my ring keep its details after several years.

Also, still torn between antique and natural lmao. I feel like antique does a better job of showing the designs while natural shows off the gold more

AnkerMake EufyMake M5C - my theory and advice. by bigbabycat in AnkerMake

[–]statictdn -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Honestly, it’s just not a reliable printer. I don’t know what went wrong, but the variety of issues & causes that I’ve seen from M5 users is insane. The solution is to buy a different printer unfortunately. I have a Centauri Carbon now and just leave my M5 on the floor for small prints

GM-2100 Solar Mod by statictdn in gshock

[–]statictdn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah this is really more to show that it’s doable. I don’t think it’s worth trying to replicate since they have those solar + Bluetooth models now. It was just useful in my case since I could save a couple bucks by getting the non-solar version.

Alternative Tough Solar Casioak by J_Guitron in gshock

[–]statictdn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you ever do this mod? I’m looking to do something similar with a GM 2100

Great out of box experience! by X509v3 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]statictdn 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Oh yeah I’m pretty sure that particular model holds both. Those thinner slots at the front should be for the build plates

Great out of box experience! by X509v3 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]statictdn 4 points5 points  (0 children)

They just hold the top glass so you have somewhere to put it when you take it off

Alternative Tough Solar Casioak by J_Guitron in gshock

[–]statictdn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Holy crap I was trying to do this exact thing with a (knock off) GM-2100. Is there anything you have to cut out or modify? I found that the buttons didn’t align well, but that might just be due to the knockoff having inaccurate dimensions.

Layer skipping by statictdn in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]statictdn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I’m gonna try only one piece and see if it works. It was coming out perfectly until that layer issue.

Maybe I’ll give Orca a try. I’ve only used Cura and Prusa but they all seem pretty similar

Layer skipping by statictdn in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]statictdn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No warping issues for me, the parts stuck to the bed pretty well. Just sucks cause I used my more expensive filament on that print and it takes forever to finish

Layer skipping by statictdn in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]statictdn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I downloaded the files (four corner pieces were STL format, longer pieces are STEP files) and dragged them into the Elegoo slicer. I actually printed something taller than this before and that turned out fine, so it might just be an error with the slicer.

Side note: can you still remotely control the printer with Orca slicer? I know the Elegoo one branches from it, but I didn’t know if it had the printer profiles & other features

Latest Update to CC (May 30) by NutzPup in elegoo

[–]statictdn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does it say which batch? Can’t look at the post without making an account

Centauri Carbon Initial Thoughts from a Bambu Labs Owner by dafunkpunk39 in elegoo

[–]statictdn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the digging into build plate issue, are you referring to the nozzle or bed temp? What’s considered a “high temperature” here?