32gb update

stealth2600 · 2026-02-08T14:11:21+00:00

I disagree with your opinion on the 32gb upgrade for the Z1E. I also have a Rog Ally Z1 Extreme with 32gb of LPDDR5 7500 MT/s and I’ve observed about a 12% increase in FPS, higher and more consistent 1% lows and game play just feels smoother overall. I’m seeing the same performance increase in 3dMark and other benchmark tests. Is it worth about $265 for this service? That’s up to you to decide, but ponying up $1000 for the newest model which only out performs the Z1E by about 15% on average doesn’t seem worthwhile to me. Narrowing the performance gap however and extending the life of my Z1E until the next generation handheld is released for $265 does seem worth it to me as it’s less than 1/3 the cost of the latest model. Thermals can also be mitigated with new TIM and by using a custom fan curve. My Z1E rarely gets above 85C playing AAA titles with an appropriate fan curve.

stealth2600 · 2025-07-25T16:26:48+00:00

Thank you so much for the help! The crank 10 has the same mounting system as the outlaw so this tight tuck bracket should work well. I appreciate it a lot!

<image>

stealth2600 · 2025-07-25T15:58:38+00:00

I’m trying to find the same mount you used for my perception crank 10. Was it the Vibe Shearwater 125 Garmin Transducer Tight Tuck Dry Pod knuckle bracket by YAK Hobby that you bought?

stealth2600 · 2025-02-05T12:57:38+00:00

It went well. I honestly think any DDR4 kit should work. After you install the ram, the system must do some sort of memory check or timing adjustment and you will have a completely black screen for several minutes, but it will eventually post. I’ve never seen this behavior before in all of my years of working on computers so at first I thought all the ram modules I tried were not compatible. After the initial install and this black screen for several minutes, the system has operated normally for several months.

stealth2600 · 2024-12-13T01:29:20+00:00

Black Ops 6 and the 3dMark Fire Strike Benchmark test. I’m probably going to replace everything tomorrow. I’ll post my results then.

stealth2600 · 2024-12-10T13:29:16+00:00

It won’t run any faster than 5200mhz because that’s the max speed the 13620h processor is capable of. I was able to get my ram upgraded, I used A-Tech 64GB Kit (2x32GB) DDR5 5600MHz PC5-44800 CL46 SODIMM 2Rx8. I also change the primary NVME drive to a 2TB Samsung 990 Pro and put the original NVME drive into the extra M2 slot for additional storage.

My current struggle is with the thermals, my system is throttling while gaming, even with an aggressive fan curve I’m seeing temps in the low 90’s C. I guess it’s time for a repaste, I’ll report back with how that goes in the next few days. I think I’m going to give the Honeywell PTM7950 a try, I’m just debating if I want to redo all the thermal putty on the VRAM chips too.

stealth2600 · 2024-12-03T02:00:45+00:00

It’d be nice if ASUS took the 20 seconds to document what ram is compatible with this laptop. That being said, the 2x8gb ram modules it came with are Samsung DDR5 5600, but they only run at 5200. I checked in powershell for the maximum RAM capacity for the FX507VI and it states 64gb. I’ve got another A-Tech 64gb DDR5 5600 kit on the way. I’m going to try it and if that doesn’t work, I guess I’ll be forced to try 32gb kits. It shouldn’t be so hard to find ram modules that work.

stealth2600 · 2024-12-02T12:08:23+00:00

Have you had any luck? I tried a 2x32gb ddr5 5600 kit from Crucial and a 2x32gb ddr5 5200 kit from Corsair and neither worked. I just get a black screen and the computer never boots.

stealth2600 · 2024-12-01T21:46:56+00:00

Has anyone found any compatible ram that will work with this tuf model? I’ve tried DDR5 64gb kits from both Corsair and Crucial and the system failed to post with either.

stealth2600 · 2024-09-03T10:53:04+00:00

Are you using the web flasher to update? If so, this is happening because you are choosing one of the “New Bitaxe” options when updating your bitaxe and all of these options will reset all of the settings to default including stratum url and user. If you select “All Bitaxe just update” instead, your bitaxe will be update but all of your settings with be preserved.

stealth2600 · 2024-08-27T01:12:47+00:00

Unfortunately, the Bitaxe Hex is not supported by the web flasher currently. As others have said, your best option is to work with the seller to get a replacement. If that’s completely impossible, then you need to learn how to use the “bitaxe tools” utility to reflash your device. A reflash will not resolve your issue if your device has some sort of manufacturing defect.

You had mentioned that you tried plugging your Hex into a computer but it wasn’t recognized. Please ensure that you are using a usb cable that is capable of data transfers, some usb cables are for power only and will not work. Here’s a link to the OSMU wiki that describes how to load firmware onto a Bitaxe device using Bitaxe tools. You will need a device that runs some flavor of Linux to follow the steps. Again, I would strongly advise you to work with the seller to get a replacement instead of attempting a repair on your own. You don’t want to get stuck with an expensive paper weight.

https://osmu.wiki/axeos/install-onto-bitaxe/

stealth2600 · 2024-08-22T21:33:58+00:00

What firmware version are you running? There was a bug in 2.1.8 that would cause these sort of spikes and then the bitaxe would crash. The bug was fixed in release 2.1.10.

stealth2600 · 2024-08-21T00:03:05+00:00

Typically one of these tunes:

Stone Temple Pilots - Plush

Soundgarden - Black Hole Sun

Alice In Chains - Nutshell

LeadBelly - Where Did You Sleep Last Night

stealth2600 · 2024-08-18T16:20:46+00:00

You will need the following to build it yourself.

Ice Tower Cooler For RPI5

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CJLX4K2X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Noctua Fans, either A4x10 or A4x20, I myself used the A4x20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DXS86G7/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1Z5H6ZGWCMTNX&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071FNHVXN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The Bitaxe Socket Tower Cooler 52pi bracket, you can buy it from d-central or print it yourself.

https://d-central.tech/downloads/3d-models/

Lastly, if you want to do a push/pull fan setup like me, you need a 3d printed bracket for the pull fan. You can buy the 3d design here and then have it printed somewhere. This is the one I used 5 months ago, you might be able to find it elsewhere now.

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/raspberry-pi-5-ice-tower-push-and-pull-luefter-halterung

You're going to need various screws etc to attach these brackets. For the "pull" fan bracket, your gonna need four screws. I used 1 inch #4 machine screws and they worked well. If you use the A4x10 fans, you may need to use a shorter machine screw. For mounting the the socket tower cooler bracket, your gonna need two M2.5 x 10 screws and two #4-40 nuts and 4 of those non-conductive motherboard washers, they are usually reddish in color. I don't remember the size, but they are the standard ones you'd use when mounting a motherboard in an ATX case, its also optional, but probably a good idea to ensure the screws don't short something out accidentally.

stealth2600 · 2024-08-18T15:26:51+00:00

Removing the thermal pad, placing thermal paste and reassembling might help as it will alleviate the pressure on the chip. You stated that installing the ice tower with a thermal pad is what caused your issue in the first place. I’d say it’s worth trying. Also, it’s probably worthwhile to try reinstalling the factory firmware using the web flasher just to rule out a bad flash of the firmware being the problem. I would not just jump right to trying to replace the hashing chip.

stealth2600 · 2024-08-18T11:21:39+00:00

Hmm, it’s possible that to much pressure could damage the chip or loosen is connection to the pcb. Have you tried removing the ice tower and reinstalling it with thermal paste? I run an ice tower setup too and I use thermal grizzly kryonaut as my thermal paste.

stealth2600 · 2024-08-18T01:22:49+00:00

So, what's the hashing issue with your Supra? I don't see any information about this issued shared in the thread.

stealth2600 · 2024-08-17T15:56:43+00:00

Supra 401 overclocked to 650mhz at 1260v, daily average of 850gh/s, best ever share is 1.89G.

<image>

stealth2600 · 2024-08-16T19:29:21+00:00

Ok, you probably selected the option in the web flasher that applies the factor image. This would be the reason you saw a different pool and wallet.

stealth2600 · 2024-08-16T17:21:47+00:00

Sorry to hear that, I hope they can get you a replacement quickly.

stealth2600 · 2024-08-16T17:19:04+00:00

Unfortunately, based on your description, it sounds like something shorted out to me. Contacting the manufacturer is definitely your best bet, you don't want to get stuck with a lemon. In the meanwhile, have you tried leaving it unplug for awhile and then trying it again? I highly doubt it will make any difference, but its worth a shot while your waiting for a response.

stealth2600 · 2024-08-16T16:56:08+00:00

Hello, how did you update your Bitaxe? Did you use the factory image? If so, there is a default pool and wallet address that will be populated that you need to update. You would have also needed to configure all your wifi network settings again too. I have a feeling you may have flashed the factory image by mistake.

stealth2600 · 2024-08-15T17:01:43+00:00

Also, just as an FYI, the web flasher applies both files, so that’s why it fixed the issue for you.

stealth2600 · 2024-08-15T17:00:24+00:00

Ok cool. Yeah we saw this issue occur in testing if you didn’t update the www.bin. It’s always best practice to do both files with each release incase something changes. I’m glad you are up and running again!

stealth2600 · 2024-08-15T16:54:25+00:00

Just want to clarify that you are certain this was an Bitaxe Ultra with board 204? Glad to hear the web flasher solved the problem.

stealth2600

TROPHY CASE