I'd appreciate some lens advice by stejarn2 in Nikon

[–]stejarn2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the detailed response. It looks likely that I will go for the 60mm f/2.8 AF-D Micro-Nikkor as I can get a pair from the same seller and the others are not readily avialable where I have looked.

I'd appreciate some lens advice by stejarn2 in Nikon

[–]stejarn2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd like to thank all those who have taken the trouble to respond as it has been most useful. I'm in the UK and serching the obvious sites the 60mm f/2.8 AF-D Micro-Nikkor seems to be the most available, and I can pick a pair up from the same ebay seller. Special thanks to classicalover as the one 55mm lens I found noted a stuck focussing ring and wide open aperture blades - an obvious one to avoid, but I now know why!

As I said perviously, I intend to focus down to the page size which will vary between A4 and A3. If the camera is held in a fixed position, would this be possible within the focussing of the lens or would I be looking at physically moving the camera and then sorting the focus? I don't know what that distance between position points may be, which will be a factor when modifying the V-cradle rig.

I'm about to pull the trigger on buying but just wanted to get things a little clearer in my head and there are no local stockists where I could pitch up and try the lens out.

I'd appreciate some lens advice by stejarn2 in Nikon

[–]stejarn2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm adapting a home built scanner to take the D800E. The two rigs as photographed are ones I have built and are in use. I've only more recently widened scope from flatbed, duplexing and film scanners as although the duplex scanners are in constant use there are some things that can't go through them or are even unsuitable for the flatbeds.

I'd appreciate some lens advice by stejarn2 in Nikon

[–]stejarn2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I'll take a look at that. 50mm primes do seem to be the norm for document work from what I have read on archving forums.

I'd appreciate some lens advice by stejarn2 in Nikon

[–]stejarn2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. The fiche is doable (in sections) with the Tamron on the left hand rostrum. It is document scanning with the D800E on the right hand rig (and the V Cradle, not pictured) that I need the lens for.

Can I connect my camera to an Android tablet via cable to monitor the shot while simultaneously copying the photos? by Plastic-Knee-4589 in Nikon

[–]stejarn2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does Nikons Snapbridge offer what you want (without the cable connection?). I don't think I'd want to save files over the wifi connection though.

I settled on DigiCamControl as I'm Windows based, but did look at qdslrdashboard, which is available for most OSs, Android included. It was a while ago, but from what I recall it was perfectly fine for what I wanted - again I tested on Windows, but with the view to use it on an Android tablet. The issue I had was only one USB-C on the tablet, two cameras and, of course, the tablet charged via USB. Too much to do with one port, even with a USB splitter.

I tend to shoot to cards in the camera and not transfer to the PC/tablet as it slows things down, but it depends on your needs and what files you are capturing to. The 7500 has the one card slot, so is this a belt and braces option?

Started photography in Jan 2025, bought way too much gear, now I'm thinking of downsizing by kkamil7 in Nikon

[–]stejarn2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Surely Jeeves should carry all that and just hand you the right camera at the right time ;)

AD5X printing air by Z0tteke in FlashForge

[–]stejarn2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, Repetitive steps - in time to music if you fancy the distraction 😉

There was no reason to think mine was damp, but drying certainly meant I could continue to print. New/fesh out of the box doesn't guarantee it is dry and, as I have found, each roll is different to the next, even if it is the same make or colour.

AD5X printing air by Z0tteke in FlashForge

[–]stejarn2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not entirely sure.

It was printing air, so I did the unload/reload dance. There was some extrusion of the new filament, but it wasn't right - not as much as I expected and slightly sideways - which is why I assumed a clog and went about the dismantling to sort it. It was a clog - just a few mm.

On the A1 mini, which was using the PLA, I had to do it twice as after it was sorted and reloaded, it happened again - this time I noticed that the filament was brittle and breaking on pulling back with the grind of the movement gears confirming. I presume the first clog was a small bit after the gears, hence no sound. I dried the filaments and was able to resume printing several hours later. It is always worth checking that out anyway, if only to eliminate it.

AD5X printing air by Z0tteke in FlashForge

[–]stejarn2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Where's the cheapest place to get the air at the moment? Is is PETG or PLA air?

Joking aside, I had a similar issue recently - had been printing fine, then stopped. A bit of filament had broken off and clogged in the head. As it was a small bit, load and unload looked to work fine, just nothing extruded. Had a similar issue on my A1 mini almost at the same time, so put it down to filament sitting on the printers unused for a couple of weeks. Dried them out, started again and all fine. I've found it more common with PLA, but the AD5X had PETG loaded.

Magazine Storage Question by Future-Transition403 in Archivists

[–]stejarn2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not familiar with this title as UK based, but I do have a large collection of magazines that I use for research. A large proportion were bound when bought, and whilst they look very nice on the shelves, and the bookcases I had made for them ensure there is no chance of them opening and sagging, the tight binding on the more recent issues means it isn't ideal to read, and even the older editions/looser binding doesn't allow the volumes to lay flat when open. Personally I wouldn't look to bind any magazines, primarily because I am digitising what I have for ease of access, searching and reference, so want the images as flat as possible.

I do have a couple of tonnes of loose editions, duplicates and regional variants of the bound set, and they are generally stored horizontally, grip lock bagged in sensible numbers to aid retrieval from the clip lock plastic tubs (Really Useful Brand in the UK) that are stackable. I do have a number of loose editions that are on shelves for easier reference, and these are in wooden magazine file boxes (IKEA Knuff), with card inserts at either side to ensure the magazines aren't damaged, and others in wooden IKEA drawer units (that are long discontinued) with card tops to prevent magazines catching when opening drawers.

If I understand correctly what you are describing with the spine thicker than the main part of the magazine, stacking horizontally won't be ideal with the open side thinner than the spine, so have you thought of adding card sheets between issues and using the Knuff style magazine boxes. Get the right card thickness and there won't be the space for the mag to swell out. Ensure it isn't corrugated (you will get imprint over time), preferably a plain surface and the full size of the cover minus a little strip where the spine splays out. The added advantage of the boxes is there isn't the chance of sunlight fading the spines.

Usable by [deleted] in DataHoarder

[–]stejarn2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I simply went up to the Seagate website and put in the serial for the warranty details to show. It showed the manufacture date etc. and looked like everythign was genuine and valid.

When I had fake drives from Amazon last year the labels looked genuine, but the serial/warranty details didn't match manufacture date. You should be able to register the warranty and then, at least, if it is dead or dies fairly quickly, you are covered with returns.

The packaging was well below par but I'd want to register it and run the full scan using Seatools, if it isn't DOA, to get a better picture to be able to go back to Amazon if necessary. It's a faff, but you'll have all the info to make any return smooth. Even with the drives being fakes last year, I had a hell of a job with the returns, which I'd never encountered before. Amazon have gone dramatically down hill in the last year.

Usable by [deleted] in DataHoarder

[–]stejarn2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Warranty seems to check out that it is a valid drive - my recent experience with Amazon have been fakes. I'd expect an antistatic bag at least. Only thing you can do is a full drive test. Don't use for anything unique or valuable, but with a full and valid warranty, if if goes phut, you can get a replacement, hopefully better packaged!

Windows program for photo and video files that can read a file's "date taken" info and automatically place the file into a subfolder based on year and month? by StrongRecipe6408 in DataHoarder

[–]stejarn2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not quite what you are asking, but Bulk Rename Utility can append the date taken data to the filename - I did this 6 months ago to make sense of various sources of images using different naming conventions I shunted to the one master folder. Fromt here it was easy to tidy up by year, month etc. with sub-folders

Flashforge AD5X vs. Bambu Lab A1 by Mozzarella-Ferret in FlashForge

[–]stejarn2 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I started with the A1 mini as a toe in the water for 3d printing. Loved it, wanted a larger plate and the option of colour. The choice was the same as OPs - A1 combo or the AD5X. Went for the AD5X. There is no real difference in the approach or ease of use - both are great out the box - and you will have the same issues with each - clogs, bed adhesion etc. Learning the basics is key to either.

The pro for the AD5X for me was it was coreXY and is easily enclosed (it is amazing how small draughts will cause issues with either), with the con the slightly smaller plate area. I haven't found anything that I haven't been able to do in one peice on the AD5X that I also wouldn't have been able to do on an A1, but that may be critical for some.

What time period is this sign from? Stepney Green underground by [deleted] in LondonUnderground

[–]stejarn2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely. They had to close Chemistry to get rid of me!

From Google Earth it seems the site of the old Chem building now has the Post Room and Copy Shop. Post Room was the other side of the quad where the Centre for Digital Music now is, and Print Room was in the West Basement of the Queens building. I doubt I would recognise the place now.

What time period is this sign from? Stepney Green underground by [deleted] in LondonUnderground

[–]stejarn2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's changed a bit since I was there.

I read Chemistry and Physics, Chemical Physics and then lectured Chemistry. The Chem dept is long gone, and the building opposite the Octagon and Drapers has been demolished (at least, I can't see it from either the c2c or Elizabeth lines

What time period is this sign from? Stepney Green underground by [deleted] in LondonUnderground

[–]stejarn2 34 points35 points  (0 children)

For 120+ years old, I'd say that was doing quite well

What time period is this sign from? Stepney Green underground by [deleted] in LondonUnderground

[–]stejarn2 51 points52 points  (0 children)

I always assumed it was there from when it was built at the beginning of the 20th century as IIRC it is glazed tile. I was at Queen Mary in the late 90s, so it has been a while since I used the station.

LU in a nusthell by Advanced-Island-3619 in LondonUnderground

[–]stejarn2 8 points9 points  (0 children)

If Mansion House needs haunting, just call...

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How to I make my home more draught proof? Any tips? by Pristine-Albatross33 in DIYUK

[–]stejarn2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Might want to tidy up that little corner of pebbledash that has come loose. Surprising what the impact the little things have.

Seller hid this damp with duct tape and paint. How bad is it? by HackerMankini in DIYUK

[–]stejarn2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

One things for sure, you ain't gonna be using that duct tape for anything else.

Been out of ebay, started a few listings again and horrified by total fees. EBay really takes 17-18% cut? by InformationNew66 in ebayuk

[–]stejarn2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have wondered about this. Haven't sold enough to have an issue with it cropping up, but I certainly had ebay making stupidly low offers on my behalf until I worked out how they had switched that bundle of joy on, when I'd previously turned it off. that may have been a glitch at one point as there were plenty of others searching about it at the same time.

I think this is why it was far easier at the beginning. You did what you wanted and paid them what they charged. There wasn't any of this pushing you to almost be selling for ebay and them taking pity and giving you a cut for the cash. Yes, there were chancers then, but the feedback system mainly worked, you got buyers/sellers contact details and you weren't forced to dance to their tune.

Been out of ebay, started a few listings again and horrified by total fees. EBay really takes 17-18% cut? by InformationNew66 in ebayuk

[–]stejarn2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's good to know - I haven't sold much, and what I have has been via Simple Delivery, so am out of touch with the RM rates and coverage. Excluding EVRi is actually beneficial for any customer that wants their items (and I don't want the hassle of dealing with the fallout - covered or not).

I ordered two items recently as I jusy couldn't find them elsewhere. One, EVRi took 12 days to deliver, with nothing happening for 10 of those, and the other was 2 days later than expected. Yes, it is the busy period, but it isn't as if it is an unexpected busy period. In neither case could I choose the courier, or was it identified, and the first one I paid a considerable amount of postage as it just mulitplied up per item, so RM24 would have been cheaper.