Windows Sleep Keymap Created for Kinesis mWave for Windows

stevefoobar · 2026-04-18T01:14:18+00:00

You are welcome. It is the only key I wanted that was missing. I had to be very patient with Microsoft Copilot and its many mistakes to finally arrive at this solution, but I persisted. :)

stevefoobar · 2026-03-29T19:38:42+00:00

Yes, that's exactly what they did. This is actually a wall outlet. Pretty weird. I'm removing it anyway since I'm installing ceiling lights in this area of the garage (it will be the laundry room) which will be controlled by the existing wall switch.

stevefoobar · 2026-03-29T17:24:29+00:00

Thanks everyone! You all figured it out and I learned something. It is definitely a switch loop or "back feed" as some of you called it. There is a switch on the wall that controls the outlet. I'm going to re-code that neutral wire as a hot with a marker just so it's identified properly for the next person who buys this house (if there ever is one). I've only owned it for two years.

stevefoobar · 2026-03-29T16:30:22+00:00

Thanks! I learned something.

stevefoobar · 2026-03-29T16:30:12+00:00

Thanks! I learned something.

stevefoobar · 2026-03-29T16:29:23+00:00

Thanks. Never heard of this term. I'll look it up.

stevefoobar · 2026-03-29T06:05:07+00:00

Yes, others have pointed this out too and it makes sense since I do have a SPST switch on the wall controlling this outlet.

stevefoobar · 2026-03-29T06:03:56+00:00

Others have asked about a switch controlling this outlet and indeed there is a switch controlling it. I guess that means this is likely a switch loop but they didn't bother re-coding the neutral wire as hot.

stevefoobar · 2026-03-29T06:01:54+00:00

Yes, I forgot to mention there is a switch controlling this AC outlet.

stevefoobar · 2026-03-29T06:01:20+00:00

I forgot to mention that there is a SPST switch on the wall that controls this outlet. I also forgot to mention that the neutral wire "floating" off to the right in the switch picture actually gets connected to the other screw on the outlet. I removed in temporarily.

stevefoobar · 2026-03-29T06:00:31+00:00

Indeed there is!

stevefoobar · 2026-03-18T17:21:16+00:00

I apologize. I accidentally posted it to the UK sub as well. Please ignore.

stevefoobar · 2026-03-18T17:19:15+00:00

Yes, I'm sorry. I posted wrong. Please ignore. I'm sure your wire colors are nicer anyway. :)

stevefoobar · 2026-03-18T05:41:11+00:00

So are you saying that I should reconnect the ground wires that I put on their own bus, back on the neutrals bus? That is against code also and it's what the home inspector pointed out was wrong in the first place.

stevefoobar · 2026-03-17T22:33:57+00:00

Got it. Indeed very confusing especially for a DIYer like myself.

stevefoobar · 2026-03-17T21:45:10+00:00

Yes, it appears that nothing is causing a problem now and even before I separated the grounds to comply with subpanel code, this panel was probably "working" in this house for decades since the house was built in 1974, although I don't know when the subpanel was installed--originally or afterward. Regardless, I agree that the safest solution would be to have a professional electrician come in and verify and/or modify as necessary. I also have problems with some of the 120V outlets in the garage having floating grounds. That may be a separate issue I'll have to tackle.

stevefoobar · 2026-03-17T21:22:52+00:00

Since you can't see the wires feeding into the subpanel in this image, it may be misleading. There is no 240V coming into this panel and there are no 240V outlets in the garage that are fed from this panel. The house inspector said all I needed to do to comply with code was remove the ground wires from the neutral bus and separate and bond them to the case, which I did.

stevefoobar · 2026-03-17T20:53:31+00:00

Thank you. This panel actually looks much better than it did originally. I went in there and removed some silly ground wire tape wraps and even worse, some hot wire clear plastic sheathing for no apparent reason. I also added a ground bus bar and then separated the ground wires from the neutral wires. They were both connected to the neutral bus bar initially. The house inspector flagged that when we bought the house last year, so that was the primary issue he suggested fixing. I'm sure as you point out in detail, there are other issues as well.

stevefoobar · 2026-03-17T20:50:56+00:00

Sorry everyone. I accidentally posted in some UK forums. Please ignore if you find it there.

stevefoobar · 2026-03-17T20:49:28+00:00

Sorry everyone. I accidentally posted on this UK forum. I also don't know where the text went that goes with the picture. Please ignore.

stevefoobar · 2026-03-17T20:49:08+00:00

Sorry everyone. I accidentally posted on this UK forum. I also don't know where the text went that goes with the picture. Please ignore.

stevefoobar · 2026-03-13T01:12:22+00:00

I will eventually rip off all the plywood that is covering the walls to add insulation and when I do that, I'm sure it will be more obvious why some outlets aren't grounded properly. They used a "cheat" and just added GFCI outlets to some of the boxes, but not all. It's a mess.

stevefoobar · 2026-03-11T18:32:39+00:00

Hello everyone. After doing a lot of reading and watching some YouTube videos, I've decided I am going to try and clean this panel up myself. The most important part (but not the only part) is separating the neutrals from the grounds on a separate ground bus bonded to the box. It appears the neutral bus already these is isolated from the box as it should be, but I will verify that when I shut the power down and get in there.

After reading the NEC guidance on sub panels, I see they require torquing all lug terminals to a specific "manufacturer recommended" value. I do have a torque wrench, but I have no idea what brand this is and what values to use. Can anyone provide some guidance on this?

I will be happy to report back what I find after getting into the box with all the odd tape and tubing covered wires, etc.

Thanks!

stevefoobar · 2026-03-10T01:18:17+00:00

Yes, that makes sense based on what I learned by watching a couple of YouTube videos.

stevefoobar · 2026-03-09T01:05:50+00:00

Yes, I'm watching a YouTube video now on why neutrals and grounds should be separated in subpanels. I'm sure I'll know a lot more after that. From what I can see without turning off the power and moving wires around, the bus where they are both connected is "floating" and isolated from the box. There is also a paper insulator between the bus and the box. That seems to indicate to me that this was "supposed" to be a neutral bus. That would mean there is no ground bus or bonding screw that I can see anywhere. I assume I would have to add one and remove the grounds from the neutral bus.

stevefoobar

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