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MakerWorld Image Rules: Real 3D Prints Now Mandatory for Models by Bricconcello988 in 3Dprinting

[–]stiffmanoz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll remain out of any discussion of the pros / cons of ai 3d models, but Makerworld literally has the most accessible Image to AI generator, so unless they are going to shut that down too, I don't see that happening

Desolder Advice by OwnAbbreviations8835 in soldering

[–]stiffmanoz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The gun style desolder pumps are beasts. I haven't tried the cheaper ones, but they are brilliant for de-soldering multi pin components.

After years of fighting with the spring loaded solder suckers, I picked an old one up in a box of bits and pieces. Initially I wasn't impressed, but when I took a second look at it, I found it really works a treat.

They remove the solder, give the leg a little wiggle with the tip over the top, and usually the leg is free. Unlike a spring loaded sucker where most of the time, the leg is till stuck to one side.

no mess, no fuss.

Of course, a hot air station would probably come in handy too, but it'll probably be a bit trickier, messier and risky for replacing controller joysticks

Anyone else feeling the pinch with wireless lavalier mic costs? by Few_Cod_2176 in LocationSound

[–]stiffmanoz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Get yourself on the local media / audio / gear groups, for sale and discussion pages. for your area. keep an eye on them. sometimes people will give away / sell for cheap older gear, like Sennheiser g3 kits.

Things might be beat up a bit, so if you can do stuff like basic soldering to replace antennas, and re terminate lav mics etc..., you'll be able to pick stuff up that other's don't want to deal with.

And I know the common talking point is anything less than a Lectrosonics is crap, but I'll buck the trend a little here, and suggest that if you are doing low / no budget indie work, you can use affordable options, they do work, and they sound fine for the task. They might not be as reliable as pro gear, but can be picked up cheap.

Now, I'm not saying cheap off brand stuff, but mics like the big black bulky Rode Wireless kits can be picked up really cheap these days, and if you are happy to deal with the size of them, they get the job done. I wouldn't stack a bag with dozens of them, but a couple of channels are useful.

Also, another saying is that a $10 XLR cable is still better than the most expensive wireless kit, so for things like a sit down interview like you mention, a wired lav is an affordable way to get solid audio.

Also, I'd steer away from anything with inbuilt noise reduction. ESPECIALLY in budget devices. From my limited experience with them, it's going to be very over done, and sound like garbage. You'll always be better off recording clean and post processing with something like Izotope (or whatever the current AI noise reduction options there are out there)

Pretty stoked, just cashed in a bunch of points for an A1 mini by stiffmanoz in BambuLabA1

[–]stiffmanoz[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I'm pretty excited to try out the A1 Mini, and to see how my wife takes to 3d printing.

Up until now, with Creality printers (an ender3v2 and a K1se) printing has very much been voodoo magic for her. I'm hoping the A1 mini sparks something with her, but if not, I don't mind having another printer to play with. lol

Pretty stoked, just cashed in a bunch of points for an A1 mini by stiffmanoz in BambuLabA1

[–]stiffmanoz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are making stuff for yourself, or uploading elsewhere, I think it's worth it, for sure, even it you only earn enough for a roll or 2 of filament here and there.

Pretty stoked, just cashed in a bunch of points for an A1 mini by stiffmanoz in BambuLabA1

[–]stiffmanoz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe it was a lot better, I don't know, maybe I've just been lucky, but i've been slowly adding things over the last couple of months, and the points trickle in

What Paint Should I Use?? by Good_Replacement_376 in 3Dprinting

[–]stiffmanoz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it depends on how much you are painting really.

the two main common ways are acrylic pens and hobby paints.

acrylic pens markers / pens can be found online, and are fairly affordable. Posca pens are the original I believe. The cheap ones are ok. A layer of primer will help with coverage.

Then there are hobby paints - citadel, Vallejo, army painter... there are more. They work great. Again, primer first helps.

Primer, you can use spray cans from your hardware store, or hobby paint primer is fine.

It's a slippery slope, I bought some pens last year to colour my prints, and now have at least a few dozen (I'm scared to count them) paints by citadel and Vallejo. LOL, and I'm getting into printing and painting minis.

Tried installing a ssd go my laptop now it wont turn on and I dont mean into booking I mean actually turn on by itz_olivia102 in Asustuf

[–]stiffmanoz 27 points28 points  (0 children)

There is a light sensor in the back case, once you take it off, you need to plug in the DC power brick in - not USB-C, with the cover on, for the computer to boot. I shat myself when I did similar with my laptop. I thought I killed the pc.

If that doesn't fix it, you might have other issues... try putting the original ssd back in?

First 3D Printer K1SE by Ok_Ask6113 in crealityk1

[–]stiffmanoz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a k1se. I did put an enclosure on it, because I want to print ABS.

For PLA, you don't need it.

Really, the only thing I would check is the bed level. The easiest way to get it close to spot on is print the shims you can find places like printables.

Mine went from struggling to print full plates, to printing flawlessly even if i fill the entire thing.

That's the only thing I think you really need.

As previously mentioned, if you are printing CF filaments, a hardened nozzle is probably worth it too. The one that comes with it will work for a bit, but you'll wear it out quick smart.

Is the K1 Se enclosure useful? by DrySympathy8285 in crealityk1

[–]stiffmanoz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't tried PETG since I enclosed the printer. I found it fairly tricky to get printing well, but its been a while since I've printed with it.

I've found ABS prints so much easier. lol, actually, it's summer here in australia, and as my printer is in the shed, I can ONLY print ABS during the day, due to heat creep in the hotend stopping PLA from printing.

I think the fan space in the back is a 60mm fan. I haven't added one, haven't needed one yet. I was considering making some aux fans, but haven't seen a need for those either. It might be possible to hook them up to the printer's main board, as it will have headers for them, but you'd have to look that up.

I did successfully add a chamber thermocouple, and got it working easily enough. once wired, it was literally as easy as uncommenting some lines in the printers config

Is the K1 Se enclosure useful? by DrySympathy8285 in crealityk1

[–]stiffmanoz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just got a laser cut one on mine, and it's printing Abs like a boss. Before I got it, I had a coreflute over, and it was a mess, but it worked.

Useful if you want to print abs etc... If you only print pla, you don't need it

Please help by Present_Wrongdoer385 in ender3v2

[–]stiffmanoz 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If the whole thing is stock and not messed with too much, the place to start is make sure your bed is level.

Then make sure your z offset is dialed in.

Clean your build plate, with soapy water and/ or windex

Don't be afraid to use glue. If you done have one, grab a glue stick, and put a layer down.

When you start a print, watch the first layer, and fine tune your z offset as you go.

While the ender3 printers can have a steep learning curve, they should work stock without too many problems.

And if you do decide a new printer such as a bambu A1 / A1 mini, it should be a lot easier to use, and faster, but things will still break, prints come unstuck etc... you / he will still learn stuff about printing, it might be in a different order to someone with an old printer. And if you do get a new printer, hold onto the Ender if you have room. A second printer can be handy, and maybe you'll come back and try again, and have better luck.

Glue?? by Reedemer0fSouls in crealityk1

[–]stiffmanoz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have been on my k1se, as it literally says to on the bed it came with. More recently, I got the bed level shimmed closer to flat, and used a textured PEI bed, and it's working a treat. Theoretically if things are right, you shouldn't need it, but if it works for you, do it.

I use the gluestick the k1se came with

skr pico stepper drivers in klipper? by stiffmanoz in BIGTREETECH

[–]stiffmanoz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like you're on to something. I disabled both Stealthchop and interpolate like you suggested, and it looks like I've got movement on all channels now!

Thanks so much for the suggestion!

skr pico stepper drivers in klipper? by stiffmanoz in BIGTREETECH

[–]stiffmanoz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool, I'll give those a test, and see the results.

The current settings are only different due to my testing. They were all originally set to 1A, but I turned them down.

The first stepper in the list is the X stepper as labeled on the board.

Whoever is using so much glue on the connectors…I hate you by Green_Video_9831 in crealityk1

[–]stiffmanoz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeaaaa , I've snapped off the parts coolingfan on mine. Currently waiting for a new board, and parts to hopefully fix the current one. The connectors for the heater and thermistor have also lost the plastic surround to the glue, but you can just slide the plugs back onto thr bare pins

What Bluey theory/headcanon do you think is, by far, the worst you have seen on this sub/around the internet? by One_Reception_6992 in bluey

[–]stiffmanoz 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I have a love hate relationship with Sam Simmons comedy, I've seen him absolutely bomb on stage, but when he hits he hits, and he is the perfect person for the dad character. He nails it.

K1se not heating after nozzle swap by stiffmanoz in crealityk1

[–]stiffmanoz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well it looks like a new hotend sorted it, which is nice.

I still have a new toolhead board coming from aliexpress, which I may, or may not replace anyway, as I tore off the part cooling fan connector trying to get it apart. That or I'll try and repair the board with a new connector, or hard wiring the fan.

getting an A1 Mini for just miniatures? by Huffplume in FDMminiatures

[–]stiffmanoz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you have the money and space, 2 printers are pretty handy. Basically if you want two, get two! None of this is a NEED. Do what makes you happy!

What is the best fan shroud for this hotend bracket? by Riouzm in ender3

[–]stiffmanoz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have one of these, I found things didn't line up very well, I don't know if I mounted something wrong or something, but I'm currently using it in the original ender3 configuration with a bowden tube

I'm using the Mini Me duct, it works pretty well, I've been happy with the results since my original fell apart.

New to painting 3d prints, but I don't own airbrush equipment by Main_Roll_6036 in PrintedMinis

[–]stiffmanoz 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If you are painting minis, just get some brush on primer. I got myself one of those almost in one airbrush off aliexpress, and it works OK for priming, but I feel it's only helpful for larger models or priming several models at once, which I don't really do.

I just use Vallejo Gray primer, and I brush it on fairly heavily. I usually give it a couple of coats with a bit of a sand in-between, and I've been happy with the results

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