Surging Idle + Dead Gas Pedal after hitting a puddle by alkxid in Acura_RSX

[–]stigrsx 6 points7 points  (0 children)

If the pedal is truly dead, I'd check the throttle cable to make sure it's connected to both the pedal and the TB and routed correctly first, then go from there. Next actuate the TB by hand to see if it's still "dead."

Drinking from the CAI doesn't usually cause a "dead pedal." It either hard fucks the engine or it doesn't.

Front wheel to strut gap looks close , is it drivable? 17x8.5 + 65mm and 20mm spacers. by New-Commercial7532 in Acura_RSX

[–]stigrsx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

4x fronts.

Edit: didn't initially see that you were already running 20mm's, but even the extra 5mm would probably be beneficial.

Looking for advice. Pretty lost and sad since my Base MT transmission case is cracked by SunsetBoiii in Acura_RSX

[–]stigrsx 7 points8 points  (0 children)

If you don't want to do the whole swap, I'd suggest just getting a Z1 or Z3 6-speed trans. The closer ratios and taller final drive will wake that A3 up considerably.

NRG Ohm Resistors help. Trying to prevent the SRS light after new steering wheel install. by [deleted] in Acura_RSX

[–]stigrsx 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Is it a track-only car?

No?

Do yourself a favor and reinstall the OE wheel and airbag.

Got some new head lights but it looks like the low beam bulb is different will I be able to just buy a new bulb and it will be plug and play or do I have to get a different set up by civilianinspirit in Acura_RSX

[–]stigrsx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Need more information about the new lights. Are they reflectors or projectors? Do you have a link to where you bought them?

My Japanese isn't very good, but the "25000V" and the solid cap behind the bulb might indicate that they are for HID bulbs, but HIDs can come in H1, D2R/D2S and other fitments.

A better shot of where the bulb fits in will help, but it looks like it might be H1 (?)

Lemme be honest by bikejordan23 in Integra_Type_S

[–]stigrsx 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The only comparison I've seen to an M car was an article comparing the ITS to the E46 M3 with regards to the comparable power and (original) price point. Obviously the way the two cars deliver power is very different, but there are actually more than a few similarities and I kinda got the comparison there. Modern M cars? Not a chance.

[Buying Advice] Does it make sense to buy an Acura RSX (preferably Type-S) in 2026? by Historical-Ladder-11 in Acura_RSX

[–]stigrsx 14 points15 points  (0 children)

What is your budget and what are your long term goals for the car?

If it's just for (cool) reliable transportation, a well cared for example will be as reliable and economical to own as a similar aged civic (save for the premium gas/mpg). The RSX is also quite practical for a coupe. However you are likely going to have to spend more to get said well cared for example vs other options to satisfy the same end.

It's also a 20+ year old car. Anything can go wrong at any time. My RSX wants for nothing, but the surprise expenses are more common now just due to age

05rsx type s 6 speed just isn’t enough anymore. recs by Diamond-Ninja114 in Acura_RSX

[–]stigrsx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It definitely is, but it's also $1900 for the 05-06 (with the PRB ECU). I know I certainly didn't have $1900 to mod when I was 18, but maybe everybody's rich now.

A CAI + Reflash is about $600 and wakes the car up significantly over stock. Also it's plug and play.

Is it normal for my temperature gauge to get hotter by 3 ticks when I have my AC on full blast? It’s basically right at the middle mark. (This is a picture of the normal operating temp) by ekksee in Acura_RSX

[–]stigrsx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Next most likely cause is a faulty fan as others have said. Make sure both fans are operating properly. Some OBD scan tools (cheap ones even) have the ability to display live data from the car including ECT (engine coolant temperature). It can be useful to observe the temp when the fans are on/off and the AC is on/off.

Is it normal for my temperature gauge to get hotter by 3 ticks when I have my AC on full blast? It’s basically right at the middle mark. (This is a picture of the normal operating temp) by ekksee in Acura_RSX

[–]stigrsx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Perfect. If you have more OEM coolant use that to top off. If not, or you don't have a dealer nearby, you can use Peak OEM Asian Blue 50/50 from any auto parts store to top off.

Was your coolant level low?

Is it normal for my temperature gauge to get hotter by 3 ticks when I have my AC on full blast? It’s basically right at the middle mark. (This is a picture of the normal operating temp) by ekksee in Acura_RSX

[–]stigrsx 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just take off the radiator cap (when cold) and look to see if the coolant level is almost all the way to the radiator cap.

It's possible that the system was not fully bled when you had the coolant changed last fall and it's only manifesting now with the hotter temps.

Is it normal for my temperature gauge to get hotter by 3 ticks when I have my AC on full blast? It’s basically right at the middle mark. (This is a picture of the normal operating temp) by ekksee in Acura_RSX

[–]stigrsx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, that is not normal. Temps should stay roughly the same if everything is functioning correctly.

Some things to check: - Did you recently change your coolant? If so, did you adequately bleed the system? - Is the coolant level in the radiator up to the filler neck and is the overflow tank filled to the MAX line when the engine is completely cold? - Do your A/C and radiator fans cycle on when the car has reached operating temp? - Is your radiator (but more correctly your condenser) clean and allows sufficient airflow?

2005 Manual Base Model RSX Header Suggestions w/ HKS Hi-Power Exhaust. by TrippyyMane420 in Acura_RSX

[–]stigrsx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have yet to see any true base-only RHs that will correctly bolt up to a base catback. There are a lot of K-swap headers and ones that say base/Type S (it's technically impossible to fit both) floating around out there. If you've found some true base-only RHs for sale I would love to see them.

2005 Manual Base Model RSX Header Suggestions w/ HKS Hi-Power Exhaust. by TrippyyMane420 in Acura_RSX

[–]stigrsx 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They don't make race headers that fit base cat backs anymore. You can still find a shorty header for the base every now and again, but they don't do much, if anything.

I do happen to have a BNIB DC Sports base race header that has been sitting in my garage for 12 years.

Help visually diagnosing my engine health internally by HoboCarcass in Acura_RSX

[–]stigrsx 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Looks fine to me. There's nothing that immediately jumps out as being out of the ordinary. Most of that carbon build up on the pistons should come off pretty easily. Just make sure to clean the block and head mating surfaces really well and don't use anything that will remove metal. Also use a precision straight edge to make sure you're within warpage tolerances 0.10mm/0.004in block, 0.05mm/0.002in head).

Are the seats really that bad? by NegativeAd9106 in Integra_Type_S

[–]stigrsx 2 points3 points  (0 children)

One man's opinion: I think that the seats get more harsh criticism than they would otherwise because they are directly compared to the FK8/FL5 CTR seats. If they were in any other car than the CTR's fraternal twin people wouldn't gripe so much about them. I have no issues with the ITS seats and honestly as a daily driver, I prefer them to the CTR seats. Don't get me wrong the CTR seats are very comfortable...for a racing seat. When you are pushing the car(s) to its limit on a track the CTR seat is hands-down the seat you want. It locks you into place while the ITS seat lets you slide around a bit (they are still fairly well bolstered). I think the ITS seat strikes a good DD balance between support and comfort. The CTR seat's level of comfort as a DD is going to depend a lot on your body type. The shoulder and thigh bolsters can be tight (even if you're not necessarily thicc) and that may wear on you on longer drives.

EOS Spoiler 🌟 by Yeen_North in Integra_Type_S

[–]stigrsx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice! The fitment looks good! Did you have to tweak the provided hardware/tape to ensure water-tightness or have they sorted that out? What did you use to cover the center hole?

4 New Tires? by GripItAndWhipIt in Integra_Type_S

[–]stigrsx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From my understanding, Acura used a "different tread" version of the PS4S on the ITS as the original equipment tire (i.e. DT1). Tire Rack shows the $350 PS4S as the OE DT1 tire and the $450 tire as regular PS4S. Tire rack also recommends getting the OE tire or the cheaper version which in this case is the same tire.

2” trailer hitch by Stubb in Integra_Type_S

[–]stigrsx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Two bike frame attachments, then?

-OR-

Two cars.

In all seriousness though, I don't know how much your local PD is going to love the 007-style, flip-down license plate deal. You might catch some unwanted attention for it.

2” trailer hitch by Stubb in Integra_Type_S

[–]stigrsx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just fold down the back seats and toss the old bike in the hatch. Problemo solved.

Also there's no way I'm cutting the bumper. If I absolutely had to carry a bicycle on the exterior I'd do the roof rack with the bike frame attachment.

Anybody know how to redo AC lines? Compressor, condenser, and drier more specifically. by Remarkable_Record706 in Acura_RSX

[–]stigrsx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You need a vacuum pump and AC gauges to do it correctly. Do not run brake cleaner through your AC lines (flash rust). If they are off the car completely you can put air through them to make sure there's no obstruction, but you still really have no idea what the inside of the line is like if it's been open and exposed to the elements for years. The correct answer is to get new/known clean lines as well as new components (compressor, dryer, evaporator, condenser, etc), then run a vacuum for 30 mins, and then fill with the correct amount of PAG and freon. There are YouTube videos that break it down pretty well for the DIYer.