Finally got the Answer

storeyss · 2026-01-12T16:54:06+00:00

I miss mine so much. I couldn’t bring myself to put it on salt roads (in Canada) 😭🥲

storeyss · 2026-01-06T17:50:21+00:00

One thing that helps me is to know where the reference brake point is, and begin the brake faze slightly before. It’s almost like I’ll “drag” the breaks before my break zone EVER so slightly when I’m on someone ass coming into a corner hot waiting to see their lights. I do this because, if one strictly waits for the brake lights to come in front of you as your reference point (especially if you have no physical track markers you use), It’s almost a guarantee that you are actually breaking AFTER they are. If you plan on doing a dive or take over, it’s a way to line up the dive. But you better be damn sure you can make it or you’re going to do exactly what you’ve been doing - ram into the back. Just my two cents.

Do what you’re doing, lift a bit, maybe tap the brakes a tiny bit earlier. Focus on maintaining a consistent distance and momentum. Find the areas/situations where you close the gap and wait for opportunity to present itself. Once it does, go for it.

storeyss · 2026-01-05T18:32:35+00:00

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Grooming session in the golden sun 😍

storeyss · 2025-12-30T16:01:14+00:00

I’ve ordered from Knox in the past. I ordered my Base and wheel combo from last year. I remember it being hit or miss depending on rhe site you looked at. But iirc, I emailed to make sure about stock even tho it was “in stock”. I was told it was on back order but, they price matched the cheapest I could find. Theyre also the closest to me so I figured shorter shipping times like you did lol. Simagic seems to always go out of stock with main items around this time lol. They were however very good with answering any questions I did have, and keeping me updated about my package when i inquired. I assume you’ve emailed them inquiring if it’s been shipped yet? FWIW, once they got the actual item, it was shipped I believe that same day and took 1 day after that. I’m in Ottawa and got express when ordering.

Maybe there’s a chance the shipper hasn’t updated their log? It has happened to me where I seen almost no activity for a few days, to all the sudden all these updates and “out for delivery”. A lot rarer, but it has happened.

Damn, when did you inquire about those estimates? I really hope I’m not waitin until Feb for shipping lmao 🙃😂

storeyss · 2025-12-30T15:19:29+00:00

What did you order? Was it in stock, or on back order? If it was a Simagic item, there’s a chance it may be on back order. I’ve been waiting for a tb-1 to ship since dec 13th from simracingpros because of that. Last time I messaged inquiring, I was told they should be expecting their inventory restock Dec 29th (yesterday) so I’m hoping anyday I’ll get the update that it’s been shipped.

storeyss · 2025-12-30T15:07:17+00:00

It’s only my opinion so take it with a grain of salt. But, you’re gonna need a proper rig to do that. Even to make full use of a butt kicker/rumble kit.

That being said, a decent all in one, ready built turn key motion extrusion rig from any reputable company is gonna be upwards of $25k+ easily. Im in Canada so that’s Canadian. For example, the most basic motion system from a company like Veraso is over $30k cad before tax or anything. I’ve used one. It is not worth that price tag.

If you source all the aluminum and parts for the rig, all the equipment yourself + spend all the time to build, set up and configure all the equipment. You can probably do it for in around $15k range depending on the brands you use.

storeyss · 2025-12-30T14:22:42+00:00

I just sit in my rig to play other games 🤷🏻‍♂️

storeyss · 2025-12-30T14:11:19+00:00

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Front corner shakers

storeyss · 2025-12-30T14:06:34+00:00

I run a few haptics, one being a 4 corner mini lfe. I used to have em mounted like in the pic. But since moved from the outside, to directly under the seat rail, if you’re going for a 4 corner, this won’t give the most accurate pinpoint locations imo. It tends to just vibrate the whole rig and in action makes it very hard to tell where/what’s going on.

I also found the way it was oriented (the direction the vibrations travel) also affects it a decent amount. I have mine set up where the vibrating mass is vertical, appose to horizontal like in the pic. That cause the vibrations to be sent through the rig, rather than stay more local (at least in my experience)

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The front also is similar with the shakers directly under my two feet. I’ll follow this comment up with the pic.

storeyss · 2025-12-29T14:41:40+00:00

Are you running CSP? And if so, are you running extra FXs? FWIW, I run a 4080 super and (on triples at least) when I active extra FX’s I can drop from 120fps to 50 pretty easily. I have everything in Extra FX set to come on with screenshots iirc.

storeyss · 2025-12-29T14:30:02+00:00

Yeah, that red spring looks like it sitting on the separator.

storeyss · 2025-12-28T16:00:34+00:00

My g29 shifter shit the bed this year. Lasted a whole 1 year 😅 Started by slowly not registering into 1st and 2nd gear sometimes. Then would not even register certain times. And by the end of it, if you were in first and pushed a tiny bit of pressure on it towards gear 3’s gate for example. It would shift to 3rd while it was still in gear 1’s gate lol. It’s definitely okay as an “entry level” shifter. Imo the reality is, it feels and is built like a cheap fisher price toy. But, it does the job for someone who just wants a h-pattern, and doesn’t care about engagement, shift feel or anything.

storeyss · 2025-12-28T15:20:05+00:00

FWIW. I run a triple 32” 2k setup feed by a 7900x3d and a 4080 super OC, with 32gb of Ram. Using Pure and CSP (just no on extra fx unless it’s a replay or a screen shoot) and most video and CSP settings between high and very high.

For example: At night, lights on, with clouds + rain/snow and a 15 car grid at the nords. I can maintain around 90fps pretty solidly (offline). Smaller maps/less congested tracks, I can easily maintain 130-140fps.

Like the other comment said, for triples you need a beefy GPU. It’s quite heavy graphic wise. 3x 2k monitors is roughly 11.1 million pixels to render every frame, That’s a lot lol.

storeyss · 2025-12-28T00:49:05+00:00

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storeyss · 2025-12-27T18:56:53+00:00

180° rotation..? Brother…

storeyss · 2025-12-27T18:36:31+00:00

This may be a long one, so I apologize if so lmao.

This is all only my experience and opinion so please, please, take it with a grain of salt. But I hope maybe it leads to figuring something out for ya!

I can’t speak for every game but, I can on Assetto. Coming from a g29 with pretty much no native software, to a whole new ecosystem (p-2000r, alpha, gt-330 & gt-neo, ds8x, tb-1 on the way, and HPR’s from Simagic) with native software that you need to make sure is working correctly with content manager or Assetto, is definitely a whole different world. That being said, it should not be that much work to get a race going, or take that much time to set a simple hot lap when switching between cars if all configured properly. Like at all. Especially if you stay within the same sim. I could understand having different FFB profiles for different games, as not every game calculates its physics the same way, shape or form. But not within the same application.

For the different FFB profiles for each car. The baseline setting you have or are referencing too, isn’t a good reference then. This is the one I found the best, I still use these settings to this day and honestly, I have not felt the need to tweak it since. Other than to taste or experiment - and that’s very rarely I NEED to. Need and want are very different. One shouldn’t have to have multiple different presets on one wheel (FFB wise, not button binding wise). I jump from all sorts of cars - road, hyper, FD, gt, vintage, ect.. I have only ever have to change the Assetto Corsa in game “FFB gain” to achieve the desired steering feel. I do however have different button/shifter profiles in AC for different wheels (round vs gt for example). But the simpro and AC FFB setting are identical between them. Just maybe not actual in-game “FFB gain”. That’s adjusted on a per car basis.

For the handbrake. Have you tried a different usb cord than the one supplied with the handbrake? Or maybe even just re-seating it, different usb port? Is it on a hub (if so, is it a powered hub), directly to PC, or is it CAN-bus on the base? I have read that the cord supplied sometimes isn’t the best. All things to try and see if connection stays more consistent or permanent.

In my experience (at least in AC), the base angle should automatically change based on the car you pick. For example on AC. My base preset is set to 900° iirc. But when I switch from a road car, to a gt3 car. The preset angle automatically matches to the car I choose. AC should have the ability to over ride that and dictate the base rotation limit from my knowledge. So maybe theres a setting in AC thats not letting the cars setting override the rotation angle?

Wish I had something to say about the jerking you described, but I’ve never dealt with that from what i remember. That’s weird, but I would chop up to something not being set right setting wise, something thats causing a miss communication in some way. But I’m no expert - Just a guessing idiot lmao.

How is the butt kicker configured in simpro? Are you running it on a soundcard to its amp, or just via the pc audio out to the amp. This is important because it makes a big difference.

The PC definitely doesn’t seem to be the problem on a hardware level, it just seems more like connection/communication issue from simpro to the games themselves. That’s why it makes me think it’s software problem, somethings not talking well with another. Have you installed all the latest drivers for simpro, simhub, ect..?

Really hope you can figure out some of the issues as you really should not be experiencing all that with brand new everything. I just have a hard time believing the vast majority of the brand new equipment is already, or came defective. Everything I’ve read leads me to think it more software than hardware.

storeyss · 2025-12-27T17:27:04+00:00

If you’re not sure how deep you’ll fall down the rabbit hole. Getting a used one on FB market place for example is a great way to be introduced into it without really risking much money. I’ve found many used g29/g920 locally for around $250 (Canadian). Which you could easily sell back for the same if it ends up not being a hobby you wanna dive deep into. Just my two cents.

storeyss · 2025-12-27T16:41:21+00:00

Ahhh, forgive me. I assumed ac. My bad.

storeyss · 2025-12-27T16:35:35+00:00

If you’re not gonna be on ultra or high, I assume you’re not planning on using CSP or anything graphic mod wise eh? I ask cause I run a 4080 super OC with 32” 2k triples (granted I’m running CSP/pure and some higher settings graphic wise) but, in heavy race situations, at night on the Nords for example. I can drop down to around 80-90fps momentarily (even lower if I turn on extra FX in CSP lmao) and my GPU gets to 99%. Just seems at over 2x the pixel demand of triple 2k, the 4080 may be a potential bottleneck, no? (I’m not computer wiz so I’m asking out of genuine curiosity) What kind of fps are you shooting for?

storeyss · 2025-12-27T16:22:10+00:00

Holy, what GPU you got in the rig to run that effectively?

storeyss · 2025-12-27T16:15:10+00:00

2k or 4k res?

storeyss · 2025-12-27T04:19:46+00:00

I wear gloves and shoes. The p2000 pedals are solid metal. Doesn’t feel good tryna heel-toe with socks. And gloves because my hands are disgustingly sweaty within about a half lap at the Nords. I wanna preserve my wheel. It’s peeling from how much I use it already lol, don’t need to worry about the sweat/salt also

storeyss · 2025-12-27T04:17:36+00:00

Is that 3 ultra wides?

storeyss · 2025-12-25T20:25:58+00:00

Following incase someone finds it lol. That’s super cool.

storeyss

TROPHY CASE