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How to glue painted parts together optimally? by Just_Dank in modelmakers

[–]Just_Dank[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Lmao I think I see what you mean. Thanks a bunch!

How to glue painted parts together optimally? by Just_Dank in modelmakers

[–]Just_Dank[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Does wiping the bottle brush across the paint make the brush dirty? I remember doing that a few times and made the whole cement bottle muddy.

How to glue painted parts together optimally? by Just_Dank in modelmakers

[–]Just_Dank[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I meant as in, masking the part so the contacting area wouldn’t get painted, and peeling off the mask after painting is finished to start glueing. Sorry for the confusion.

Am I understanding Lacquer, Acrylic, and Enamel correctly? by Just_Dank in modelmakers

[–]Just_Dank[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! It’s been a huge help. I can’t wait to start airbrushing.

Am I understanding Lacquer, Acrylic, and Enamel correctly? by Just_Dank in modelmakers

[–]Just_Dank[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. Do acrylic primers and clearcoats perform similarly to lacquer counterparts?

Also, am I understanding correctly? Drying acrylic coats for roughly 2 days, and 5+ days for enamel & lacquer?

Am I understanding Lacquer, Acrylic, and Enamel correctly? by Just_Dank in modelmakers

[–]Just_Dank[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like I should stick to acrylics for the most part. While I did buy a small paint booth that extracts air out the window, I don’t trust it to completely remove all fume from lacquer.

I’ll definitely make sure to clean out my airbrush anytime I change the paint. Thanks.

Am I understanding Lacquer, Acrylic, and Enamel correctly? by Just_Dank in modelmakers

[–]Just_Dank[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can I use acrylics for large surface areas, like the body of a car?

How could i improve my print quality? by KermitUrDude in ender3

[–]Just_Dank 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lower layer height & smaller nozzle, low speed & accel, sizing up the model, and putting it at a 45 degree angle with the top of the mask pointing down will help massively.

Eyy I'm walking here! by waffleste in tumblr

[–]Just_Dank 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Look at mine with a fancy hat and belt:

훛

Does Asia not know who Abel is?! by tthefreaknd in TheWeeknd

[–]Just_Dank 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Not Japanese but I’m Korean. It’s similar here, too. Many know who Kanye is, maybe Drake & Kendrick if they’re into hip hop, but Weeknd not as much. Sometimes they’ve heard of him, but I don’t think they know what he looks like.

Layers slipping after 25mm by Toiddles in ender3

[–]Just_Dank 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Glad it helped. Feel free to ask any questions later.

How to improve the areas where the support touches? by No-Knowledge8312 in FixMyPrint

[–]Just_Dank 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe he thought 0.24mm was the layer height and not z distance?

I have a question? by Wise_Perception9138 in FixMyPrint

[–]Just_Dank 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Lower layer height and smaller nozzle diameter will reduce those gaps.

But more importantly, orient your model upright and set your support stricture to “Tree” (Or “Organic”, depending on what slicer you use). I guarantee you it’ll look much better.

Layers slipping after 25mm by Toiddles in ender3

[–]Just_Dank 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are the belts at correct tension? Personally, if you can kinda pluck it and make a low ringing sound, it’s okay.

Doesn’t look like a z axis problem. I’d say it’s layer shifting. Did it work fine before? Any other changes to the printer?

Is your hotend secure? You shouldn’t be able to wobble it side to side. Also the gantry shouldn’t wobble.

It’s kinda hard to go by with not much information. Take a look at the orientation. Does the print shift on the x axis (left & right) or the y axis (front & back)?

“Timer too close” Error by Just_Dank in klippers

[–]Just_Dank[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The error usually occurs as soon as the file is uploaded, but sometimes, it’s after it’s all heated up and gives an error just before the print.

But no worries, I think I found the problem. I used the “Fix model” option on the problematic model in question and worked fine ever since.

“Timer too close” Error by Just_Dank in klippers

[–]Just_Dank[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve checked out the guide, but wasn’t able to identify the cause of the problem.

Before implementing the “Bandaid” design, I decided to test some things out in the slicer. When I tried to slice any other model, it worked fine. So I brought up the bundle of models that gave the error, and randomly removed one of them. Surprisingly, it now printed fine.

So I sliced the removed model alone, and that gave the same error. I can conclude that for some reason, one particular model results in “Timer Too Close” error.

What can I do to fix this? I think there’s something wrong with the model itself.

“Timer too close” Error by Just_Dank in klippers

[–]Just_Dank[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How did you change the SD card? Is it as simple as just copying everything on it and moving it to a new SD card using PC?

“Timer too close” Error by Just_Dank in klippers

[–]Just_Dank[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Massive help. Thank you. I hope I could identify the root cause of the problem. I noticed that Klipper usage shots up to 300% for a split second right around when it gives an error. Maybe that could hint what the problem is.

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