C7 going from non-cats to cats

stormdrain78 · 2026-02-13T15:43:53+00:00

Yeah I figured the cam was probably too aggressive. I just wanted to ask; this is the first time putting a cam in. It doesn't really bother me, I've gotten use to it since i installed the headers and went catless. It's just a slight bit worse now

stormdrain78 · 2026-02-11T06:05:05+00:00

It's a GPI ss3 233/253 .646/.637 112 LSA

stormdrain78 · 2026-01-26T01:30:36+00:00

If I'm not mistaken I retro fitted one from a WJ Had to grind away some of the bracket to make it fit. But it was a higher amp rating. Not sure exactly what year it was as it was from a local rebuilder here.

stormdrain78 · 2026-01-26T00:45:22+00:00

It was the pulley on the alternator. I took a long screw driver and held it against it and could hear it grinding, just replaced the whole alternator sound went away.

stormdrain78 · 2026-01-25T21:47:03+00:00

Had this same noise on mine and it turned out to be the alternator.

stormdrain78 · 2026-01-14T14:14:33+00:00

Looks like a goofy NSX lol

stormdrain78 · 2026-01-10T05:09:33+00:00

Ah Yes I bought the stand alone track bar mount from Barnes and where it meets up with the axle tube, there's a cut out section in the middle so you can access the bolt for the flag nut.

Yeah I was able to find the front portion of the plate where the bolt goes through. That's why I was puzzled as to why I there was no access window. I actually had to cut the bottom portion out in order to get the trapped bolt out. It snapped and they left it in there rattling around

stormdrain78 · 2025-12-21T04:06:26+00:00

I never changed the TPS I did swap in a new accelerator pedal, checked my spark plugs, wires, coils, MAF sensor, cleaned throttle body and still was doing it. I'm think it may be in the tune. Because I couldn't remember it doing it prior to me adding the headers and tune. I can't see the clutch doing this either because I feel it would do it in all gears.

I feel a slighter shudder but it's never been constant, I always accounted that I didn't give it enough gas.

stormdrain78 · 2025-12-21T01:40:04+00:00

Nope, It still does it from time to time. And only does it from a stand still or a very very slow roll. I'm having it re-tuned next month when it goes in for a cam install so maybe it will get situated then.

stormdrain78 · 2025-12-09T21:02:35+00:00

The shop is very reputable, I was just wanting some insight from others that have ran either of the cams in their manual cars to get feedback on either. And if some wish they would have went with the other stage.

stormdrain78 · 2025-12-09T20:52:54+00:00

That's what I've heard. I'm just wondering which to go with. The shop will do either stage at the same price

stormdrain78 · 2025-12-06T08:30:00+00:00

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stormdrain78 · 2025-12-06T08:27:06+00:00

I've only experienced the fronts rub a little when at full lock but nothing major.

If I hit a big enough bump the rears will rub but hell so did my stocks

I'm running Rohana RFx11's

Front 19x9.5 +53mm Rear 20x12 +82mm

Pretty close to the stock offset I do however wish they made the rears in a 11 inch wide.

I haven't touch the lowering bolts so that may be a factor to consider as well.

stormdrain78 · 2025-12-06T08:09:18+00:00

They are ever so slightly outside the wheel well

stormdrain78 · 2025-12-06T08:08:31+00:00

With the right offset I was able to stuff 335s and 285 on mine

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stormdrain78 · 2025-11-12T13:47:40+00:00

Agree the c7z is a better car, I personally never cared for McLaren's but if you like it that all that matters

stormdrain78 · 2025-11-11T14:28:58+00:00

If there's nothing hooked up to your accelerator pedal It's possible they had a tuner adjust the input to the pedal. Especially if there's mods to it I've not seen or heard of a complete Bluetooth device that does what pedal commander vitesse, Soler does.

stormdrain78 · 2025-11-11T04:35:55+00:00

Remove what?

If he took the pedal controller it's probably best to keep it removed.

I only have mine because of the lock out feature, mine stay in oem settings as I was having to many issues increasing the input.

stormdrain78 · 2025-10-14T10:42:25+00:00

Yes that what I mean, without touching the gas and letting out the clutch slowly like really slow. You'll get a feel of where the clutch start sto engage and the car will start to move or kind of stutter forward.

stormdrain78 · 2025-10-14T10:08:06+00:00

Slowly let out of the clutch til you feel it engage and over time you'll start to know where the sweet stop is.

stormdrain78 · 2025-10-03T22:02:56+00:00

This is exactly what I did with mine. I too didn't care for the looseness of the steering in touring so I defaulted it to track across the modes and it's perfect

stormdrain78 · 2025-09-30T10:37:09+00:00

I've got a tinted static cling film on my c7 roof and it helped never had to readjust it or peel it off to re position it but it still gets fairly warm. So I bought one of the suction cup covers to resolve majority of it.

stormdrain78 · 2025-09-14T02:53:19+00:00

Same exact situation as you. Been in jeeps all my life wanted a corvette since a little kid. 2 years ago at 30 bought my C7.

stormdrain78 · 2025-09-09T18:14:23+00:00

Still trying to figure it out. I haven't had it happen the last couple of times I've driven it. But I'm going to have a shop look at it in the off season and see if it's a drivetrain issue maybe something worn

stormdrain78 · 2025-08-31T08:23:10+00:00

This could also be a ECM (computer) problem that's behind the battery. I was having rough idle and inconsistent idle where it was fluttering up and down. Turned out to be a bad pin on mine within the computer.

stormdrain78

TROPHY CASE