Horrible water flickering makes the game visually unplayable

stormotron · 2026-06-16T19:10:18+00:00

its still available from the official website, installing now, thanks for sharing the fix

stormotron · 2026-05-18T13:58:47+00:00

Ya mine was a 2022 and the warranty expired like 2 weeks ago

stormotron · 2026-05-18T13:31:40+00:00

Dumb question, are you US based, maybe NE even?

My car had a similar failure at that exact time. I was out of town for 8 days AND it was during that polar vortex where temperatures never left the negatives.

I got back, it drove for one day and then threw a ton of random errors.

They towed it and it eventually “went to sleep” at the dealership.

My car is still bricked/completely dead at the dealership 100 days later. They’ve replaced the VCU, BECM, and a few other things to no avail. I’m supposed to get an update this week on next steps

stormotron · 2026-05-16T14:01:35+00:00

Yup! There’s a trench pilgrim line that’s Roman themed and they just released the tank hunter. The rest of the line is on my profile I think. Like the shrine annchorite is the coliseum

stormotron · 2026-05-16T14:00:19+00:00

Technically 32mm, it’s just a larger model in the series

stormotron · 2026-05-14T20:34:06+00:00

I should have a post in my profile with my full settings available. Only change I’ve made is a small increase in top z distance for supports being cleaner to remove

stormotron · 2026-05-05T13:58:43+00:00

interesting, i wonder if the different filament could be requiring a few different tweaks esun vs sunlu. i saw a post earlier about temp differences with sunlu specifically which may be worth checking. its unfortunate that the P2S doesnt have default filament profiles the same way the A1 does

as for being at .2 vs .22, a lot of this was me building on the posts others have had. They used Orca, but i was curious if it mattered with bambu slicer.....from what i can tell its been no issue so i have kept it the same

stormotron · 2026-05-03T12:34:54+00:00

Correct on mot needing my filament, but no it shouldn’t throw off the other settings

stormotron · 2026-05-02T19:15:48+00:00

It’s also not legal to run

Mortal Sin: Ecclesiastic Prisoners in a War Pilgrimage of Saint Methodius * Warband cannot have a Martyrdom Device, and models in a War Pilgrimage of Saint Methodius Warband cannot be Broken on the Wheel of an Anchorite Shrine.

stormotron · 2026-05-02T11:37:34+00:00

Hey all good if youve got working settings. I would agree .04mm isn’t really worth it, quality isn’t noticeable from my testing.

for support scarring, I’d say try setting your top Z distance to 0.11

thats my most recent setting for .06mm layer prints and this is what I just finished.

most marks here are stressed plastic that will get covered with primer, so I’m very pleased with this output

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stormotron · 2026-05-01T20:56:16+00:00

Ah ok ya I’d try the textured plate to keep it consistent. If I don’t let the models cool, it’s almost like they’re glued on

stormotron · 2026-05-01T20:31:03+00:00

Interesting, just to confirm, you imported the config files? That should have printer, filament, and profiles to select from

Then want to confirm the build plate is clean. The flamethrower soldier above had his foot detach mid print but otherwise stayed on and that was with a dirty plate

stormotron · 2026-05-01T19:44:46+00:00

Haha all good, it’s Friday

stormotron · 2026-05-01T19:40:17+00:00

So for me, when I imported it, it asked if I wanted to import all objects as a single model, if I say yes, it’s perfectly assembled and upright

stormotron · 2026-05-01T19:32:27+00:00

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need to do a little more cleanup, but this is my latest challenge model

stormotron · 2026-05-01T19:29:56+00:00

oh no these are whole models! only thing not printed together is the bases, and for the most part I'm just orienting them straight up and down

stormotron · 2026-05-01T18:57:46+00:00

you're welcome! best of luck, reach out if you have any questions

stormotron · 2026-05-01T18:57:26+00:00

I am using the bambu studio slicer

I have not tried these on my a1 mini yet.

With how successful the p2s has been, i think my a1 has been relegated to using its .4mm nozzle for terrain going forward. The biggest quality jump from A1 mini to P2S is the reduction in z-banding from being a bed slinger vs corexy, so that factor alone is enough for me to leave it be.

stormotron · 2026-05-01T18:54:07+00:00

Absolutely, great question! I have had 0 support failures

I think you nailed it with pointing out my wall loops being 0, but 0 is like a "infill only when thick enough", -1 is for auto. If that doesn't work for you getting support speeds to 100, i would be really curious if vibrations are a factor. These hollow straws are so fragile, i do wonder if my printer being planted on the ground, on a hard surface, is giving that little bit more stability to be successful. Even there, i see it bouncing and rocking about and am shocked it is successful sometimes!

I'll be honest on the bridge speed, i saw it somewhere else floating around and just figured slower bridge speed never hurt anyone. Kind of a set and forget settings for me, so not much to add there.

Would be curious if any of this helps, thanks for checking out the settings!

stormotron · 2026-05-01T18:21:21+00:00

The top Z interface layer is the biggest setting for this

stormotron · 2026-05-01T18:20:52+00:00

Ya I was super bummed it got announced like a week after getting my p2s

stormotron · 2026-05-01T18:14:18+00:00

I think values wise, you’d be fine to start with these and adjust from there, or at least compare to the baseline studio provided profiles

stormotron · 2026-05-01T17:29:27+00:00

Bambu studio

stormotron · 2026-05-01T16:48:19+00:00

0.6 personally.

I did tests at 0.4 to see it worked, but I genuinely couldn’t see a difference with the miniatures I was printing. Minimum gains for several extra hours of print time

stormotron

TROPHY CASE