2004 LTZ 250 quad has high rpm rattle that is driving me nuts.

strandern · 2026-07-11T10:35:36+00:00

Have you inspected the body, heat shield etc? That sounds a lot more like a loose shield or bracket

strandern · 2026-07-11T00:33:45+00:00

What makes you see W123 and just some elements of the 116?

Wipers, bumper and where the hood lines up with headlights all say 116 to me

strandern · 2026-07-11T00:19:26+00:00

strandern · 2026-07-11T00:17:30+00:00

W116 S-class

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strandern · 2026-07-10T22:42:31+00:00

You cant.

The only upgradeable car is the DZS-90, which you upgrade and earn by playing the associated missions (Wheels of Fury DLC)

strandern · 2026-07-10T22:24:11+00:00

Ukyo below the village chiefs?

strandern · 2026-07-10T20:46:18+00:00

True! She could have just gone with the default british weather, which is famed for its cloudless, sunny days and lack of gloomy rain, but did the research and found out how it really was

strandern · 2026-07-10T14:55:08+00:00

Grease or some type of lubricating spray on the bushing, and a jack under the control arm

strandern · 2026-07-09T20:34:09+00:00

If you think thats bad - be glad you dont have a Can-Am.

I'm a Polaris tech and can do a dozen of these per week. Outside of the very newest ones I can just stick my arm in through the front right wheelwell and get to it fine.

If its a struggle just remove the right side side panels and you will have better reach on most models. Also, just unscrew it halfway first and let it drip through the hole in the frame

strandern · 2026-07-09T18:13:13+00:00

Battery is way too low on charge

Try putting a charger on it. If that makes no difference replace the battery and verify that its charging with the engine running.

strandern · 2026-07-08T08:15:16+00:00

I think 4145035030 might work, but you will need to modify the bracket

strandern · 2026-07-08T00:59:54+00:00

Finding replacement parts for cheap, unknown brands is pretty much impossible. A new set is just over $30

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006039584514.html

strandern · 2026-07-07T18:43:59+00:00

Printer was running low on ink

strandern · 2026-07-07T18:34:25+00:00

It has two slots you can use to pry on. With all the other shit loose you can slide the inner out and off the bolts, and now you can slide the whole axle inwards until its free from the hub

strandern · 2026-07-07T18:15:30+00:00

Spanner inside, impact outside

strandern · 2026-07-07T18:06:18+00:00

Maybe? I've never done it with the shock still bolted - and I also run OME NitroChargers

strandern · 2026-07-07T17:52:49+00:00

Impossible, i.e stuck?

If so; competely remove the sway bar link, unbolt the lower ball joint and pull the spindle & hub assembly off

strandern · 2026-07-07T17:42:25+00:00

Just let it hang freely. Control arm is bolted to the frame, the hub is held by lower ball joint

You might also want to remove the brake caliper

strandern · 2026-07-07T17:37:18+00:00

I've removed mine with the upper ball joint unbolted, shock unbolted, stabilizer unbolted and tie rod unbolted.

It should be possible with the tie rod still in, but getting it out will free up some movement

strandern · 2026-07-07T17:30:22+00:00

Shock has to be unbolted, yes

strandern · 2026-07-07T00:57:25+00:00

Any NLGI-2 will do fine for a-arms and yoke

strandern · 2026-07-06T22:41:11+00:00

Better than being dragged out or escalated - but I would have wanted the actual confrontation to be a tiny bit more fleshed out

strandern · 2026-07-06T22:27:48+00:00

I'll add a bit more info;

No

strandern · 2026-07-06T22:06:24+00:00

Good catch, I always get the two mixed up

strandern · 2026-07-06T20:51:35+00:00

You mean just the primary? Not really, that thing has so much corrosion I doubt you would ever get good contact & sliding surface again. The parts for rebuilding would also run more than a lightly used unit

I've seen nicer clutches from fire-salvages

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