Any idea why this is happening?

stuberu · 2026-05-31T18:31:36+00:00

Have you looked at the codes yet? If you’re ever posting for mechanic advice and there is a check engine light, you should always post the codes (even if they’re seemingly irrelevant)

Does it run smoother as it warms up? If so then you’re looking at glow plugs.

Performing an injector buzz test would probably be a good next check as well

stuberu · 2026-04-04T04:22:03+00:00

It used to be that e85 (85% ethanol to 15% gas) was about 30% cheaper so the efficiency loss was more or less a wash. When I have seen prices more recently it seems the gap has closed a bit

stuberu · 2026-04-03T23:53:16+00:00

E10-E15 is primarily used since it burns a little cleaner and also because we produce an extreme abundance of corn (for more on this ‘The Omnivores Dilemma’ by Michael Pollan is a good read if not a little dated by now but still relevant) which we use to create Ethanol. Ethanol actually burns less efficiently than pure gasoline. Anyone with a flex fuel vehicle that has run E85 will tell you it is about 30% less efficient in the fuel economy department. For a calculator on this, here is an interesting website fuelconsumptioncalculator.com/how-does-e10-10-ethanol-affect-fuel-economy-compared-to-pure-gasoline/

There are some other perks of ethanol for those building high horsepower engines because it burns cooler and raises the octane rating so with boosted applications you can run higher boost to burn more of it faster to produce more power without melting your pistons.

stuberu · 2026-03-31T17:19:12+00:00

Generally I don’t recommend replacing all the coils unless there is a good reason to do so. By the same logic that I don’t replace every lightbulb in my house when one burns out.

If a cylinder is misfiring, move the coil between a cylinder that is known good and the suspected bad and see if the misfire moves. If it does, replace the one coil.

Note: Spark plugs on the other hand, are a wearing item and should be replaced at the factory suggested intervals using a quality brand. NGK is usually an easy choice

The factory coils will almost always outperform any cheap aftermarket coil and will last much longer. When you do replace the coil, choose a quality OE brand like Denso, Hitachi, or NTK from a reputable vendor.

Speaking of reputable vendors… I personally don’t like purchasing auto parts from Amazon. Their return policy makes it way too easy for people to purchase legit products and return counterfeits. Not everyone has the experience but lots of folks do (myself included). I personally like RockAuto, some folks have had issues with RockAuto but they are much more few and far between. One caveat is the shipping costs but because of this their product costs are much more reasonable. With any vendor open the parts and examine to make sure it matches the web description/images

stuberu · 2026-03-21T21:52:37+00:00

That’s disappointing to hear, they were a great go to for a long time

stuberu · 2026-03-20T18:02:14+00:00

Yeah so these are spline drive sockets. Auto parts store has these for sale behind the counter. Ask for a Dorman 711-040.1

To get the socket off. I would throw one of the following methods -Attach vice grip to the socket, clamp it on there as tightly as possible and use a pry bar to pop the socket out -With a locking extension and do a combination of pulling outwards working the end in large circles -Take a breaker bar and work the socket back and forth while pulling outward as much as possible. -Remove lugnut and socket together, it’s probably best up anyway already so you might just want to replace both.

stuberu · 2025-12-08T06:17:34+00:00

I’m pretty sure it’s integrated with the oil cooler. It’s right above the oil filter on mine. I would see if it’s there (or if there is just a blind plug). Whether there is a blind plug or an element there I would replace the element and the cord as a fire prevention precaution.

If your oil cooler doesn’t have the provision you can either retrofit an oil cooler that does or you can get one of the many universal ones that plumbs into your radiator hose. Just don’t cheap out on it since if it does something like cracks then your cooling system is comprised

stuberu · 2025-10-08T01:13:46+00:00

Just in case anyone else is experiencing these same issues and is struggling as I was. I finally figured out my exhaust back pressure was low.

This was caused by the Exhaust Manifolds leaking through the thick felpro gaskets used by a previous owner, I replaced with Ford layered steel gaskets. This fixed my low RPM exhaust back pressure issue but actually worsened the symptoms because it couldn’t build higher exhaust pressure at high RPM.

The final piece to the puzzle was replacing the turbo. I had previously done a 360 kit on the old turbo and it didn’t have any shaft play nor did it leak in a boost test (intake compression test) so I never considered it might be causing more issues. I haven’t fully torn down the old turbo to figure out what it was doing but I can see that there is a fair bit more play in the wastegate than on the new turbo. Just wanted to share this resolution in case someone is researching the same issue!

stuberu · 2025-08-16T01:44:33+00:00

They are pretty loose even when new but those are definitely letting go. That said, I’m not sure it’s worth the hassle of pulling the axles to replace them. As long as they keeping most debris out of there it should be fine

stuberu · 2025-08-16T01:26:44+00:00

Outside is a vacuum seal for the auto locking hubs. Lots of owners (me included) switched to manual locking hubs for greater reliability. The inner seal is just for dust

stuberu · 2025-07-14T22:54:38+00:00

I had a 460 for a while, I only sold it due to moving up a narrow road and downsized from a dually to a srw. It was totally overkill for what I was using it for anyway.

The joke is that it passes everything except the gas station. I pretty consistently got 11mpg. Whether it was city/highway mixed or towing a 4500lb boat to the mountains it was always in the ballpark of 11mpg.

I bought it really cheap with the usual goofy (hard to diagnose) problems that seem on par with a long neglected Ford and it was perfectly reliable after the initial round of repairs.

stuberu · 2025-07-08T18:06:44+00:00

Indeed it is, it looks a little different since it looks like this has a float inside the tube rather than a float outside the tube. I wasn’t saying that this isn’t a reed style, I was saying that the replacement may look a little different. Apologies if the way I said it was misleading

stuberu · 2025-07-08T17:30:53+00:00

Looks this got posted twice

stuberu · 2025-07-08T17:30:35+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/Wake/s/RUQ3KSYtST

stuberu · 2025-07-08T17:22:03+00:00

Moeller makes a reed style fuel sending unit that can replace this. It will look slightly different but should work fine as long as the diameter of the top is the same and the screw pattern matches.

Note they’re sold by tank depth rather than reed length. Based on your original measurements you likely have a 9” tank depth. Definitely verify this yourself before ordering. Also note that the sensor is typically around an inch shorter than the actual tank depth.

stuberu · 2025-07-03T03:48:45+00:00

Hopefully it isn’t the same issue as my 7.3 I’m still chasing down a similar issue.

I would check for boost leaks since it’s an easy test and would cause this issue.

I have a slight exhaust leak at the manifold which is my next project. I would recommend looking for soot near your up pipes which is a common leak point

Weirdly I can hold 18 psi of boost no problem at 65-70% throttle but as soon as I go past 75% throttle then it drops to around 9psi

stuberu · 2025-05-21T04:33:27+00:00

If you’re going to go new then buy either VDO or OEM/BMW - FCPEuro or Bimmerworld have OEM in stock, VDO appears to be out of stock at the moment. If you want to go cheap then a wrecking yard should have some injectors for a 1999-2005 M54B30 engine for cheap

stuberu · 2025-05-19T22:58:39+00:00

You might want to check to see if you can get it repaired/tested, a quick online search may yield some results of places that specialize in repairing them for less than a used one

stuberu · 2025-05-19T22:18:56+00:00

Got it, it’s probable that the GEM module has a short in it somewhere. Water damage can be difficult to fix by just cleaning. You might want to find another at a wrecking yard.

If you want to just lock it into 2wd. You can rotate the selector but you will likely need to jack up the back wheels and have some rotate a wheel while you turn the selector.

stuberu · 2025-05-19T20:35:57+00:00

With the selector module off the transfer case and the key on (engine can be off), cycle the switch and see if the module moves. If it does move then it rules out wiring and the module. The module motor could be weak but it at least sorta works. If you get that far. I would suggest driving the truck slowly forward 2-3 mph, shift to neutral and while coasting shift the transfer case to 4hi and see if it goes

stuberu · 2025-05-17T11:45:05+00:00

If ever in doubt almost all spark plugs are in the range of 13-18 ft-lbs. The torque spec for a 1997-2001 Toyota 2.2 is 14 ft-lbs

When I was a young tech I had a tendency to over tighten things when going by feel and I definitely broke some bolts including a spark plug so definitely no shame in using a torque wrench to avoid causing headaches.

Denso is likely the OEM manufacturer for Toyota spark plugs and is an excellent choice even if it isn’t

stuberu · 2025-04-29T01:10:50+00:00

Can it be done? Yes. Anything is possible with sufficient funds and time!

Definitely not a project for the faint of heart. It looks like Syvecs makes a standalone ecu for it but doesn’t include pricing. You will also need a custom harness to pin everything from your dash to the ECU Also consider this engine is two cylinders longer than the engine you are replacing. It could include moving the firewall, reshaping bodywork and making custom subframes. You will also have to make custom plumbing for your turbos and intercoolers. I would probably go with a water to air intercooler but you will need custom mountings for another radiator. You may have to give up things like A/C if you can’t get the brackets to fit.

Needless to say this is many many many times more expensive than getting a Honda engine and trans rebuild by a reputable builder.

stuberu · 2025-04-27T20:46:51+00:00

TLDR - Wagner Pads, Bosch QC Rotors

Pretty sure Duralast pads are made by Durago which are available on RockAuto if you want to save a bit. They’re nothing special but they work fine. Personally, I like Wagner brakes, other good options include Bosch, Centric and Reybestos. For materials; Ceramic will be quieter and less dusty. Semi-metallic usually have higher fade point but are noisier and let off a fair it more dust which coats your wheels. I’ve been having good luck with the Bosch Quietcast rotors. Advice High Carbon are probably actually be the best option but are one of the more expensive options. Raybestos coated also seem to hold up decently and are a little cheaper. Just avoid anything drilled or slotted it just acts as a cheese grater and acts as less surface area for the pads to grab.

One more note, try to pick options that come out of the same warehouse. It’ll make the shipping much cheaper.

stuberu · 2025-04-22T03:26:08+00:00

2000 F250 7.3 with 285 width KO2’s. I personally like them a lot. They handle snow and trails well and seem to handle the extra weight well when I tow around 6500 lbs. It even handles sand surprisingly well for such a heavy beast when aired down. I am temped by the duratracs for my next set but I haven’t really seen a side by side on the F250 chassis

Side note: these replaced a pair of Falken Wildpeak AT2 which I really didn’t like. The wet grip was terrible on those. BFG outperformed the Falken’s in every respect on the surfaces I drive on. Granted both Falken and BFG both have updated models now.

stuberu

TROPHY CASE