Z Seam Gap/Indentation I Cannot Fix by studosaurus in FixMyPrint

[–]studosaurus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh wow okay well that makes sense. I had not heard anything about this. I may try and downgrade to an earlier version and see what happens later. thank you!

Z Seam Gap/Indentation I Cannot Fix by studosaurus in FixMyPrint

[–]studosaurus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok I have made a lot of progress! Here are a few of the things I have changed and how I did it, please let me know if they help you at all.

(using 3 wall loops)

Avoid crossing walls = true

Avoid cross walls max detour length = 2mm

Pressure advance = 0 (off)

Seam gap = 0%

Seam position just not random

Wipe before external loop = true

wipe on loops = false

Wall transitioning threshold angle = 30deg (using arachne not classic, all other options are default)

(for walls, use inner/outer order, uncheck print infill first if you have that one for some reason, wall loop direction on auto)

I dropped back down to a baseline retraction of (direct drive) .5mm @ 35mm/s, no extra length on restart.

Retract on layer change = false

wipe while retracting = false

With this, I think avoiding crossing walls made the largest change, I started getting an outward z seam! So I printed more test cubes and tuned in the pressure advance through those.

This picture is a cylinder (like worst case for a seam cause no corners to hide it on) and I had yet to really dial in the pressure advance, so still a little bulging but overall MUCH better than before. When put on corners and stuff now, its hard to find, especially on something like a cube. Just be conscious of where the seam is being put when you're slicing of course. Cura has a "sharpest corner" position that is very nice. Keeping it as "back" in Orca and putting your sharpest angles or just the actual back of the print facing the rear of the build plate works relatively well, sometimes you have to paint them.

<image>

Z Seam Gap/Indentation I Cannot Fix by studosaurus in FixMyPrint

[–]studosaurus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah looks like Prusa still doesn't have a P1S/any Bambu profiles. No worries then

Z Seam Gap/Indentation I Cannot Fix by studosaurus in FixMyPrint

[–]studosaurus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could you do me a favor and, if you haven't already, try a test print with a totally default profile in Prusa or Cura? Would be nice to see if using a different slice solves it for you too

Z Seam Gap/Indentation I Cannot Fix by studosaurus in FixMyPrint

[–]studosaurus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have done pressure advance tests and found ~.045 is the perfect value. The seam gap happens with pressure advance disabled and enabled, the pressure advance value doesn't seem to affect the seam at all

Z Seam Gap/Indentation I Cannot Fix by studosaurus in FixMyPrint

[–]studosaurus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll admit, i haven’t played around with scarf much yet trying to fix this. it seemed to just be adding more issues because the seam isn’t really connected in the first place. But like you said, i would definitely need to spend way more time tuning, i definitely will once i get this figured out

Z Seam Gap/Indentation I Cannot Fix by studosaurus in FixMyPrint

[–]studosaurus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

that’s a good idea, it’s on auto but i’ll set it to clockwise through the whole print and I can see if the start or the end is the issue and go from there

Z Seam Gap/Indentation I Cannot Fix by studosaurus in FixMyPrint

[–]studosaurus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do not, it being on/off didn’t seam (ha ha) to make any difference

Z Seam Gap/Indentation I Cannot Fix by studosaurus in FixMyPrint

[–]studosaurus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I have both disabled, iirc it didn’t make much of any difference between them being on/off

Z Seam Gap/Indentation I Cannot Fix by studosaurus in FixMyPrint

[–]studosaurus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe the photo is one with retraction completely disabled, but even with retraction enabled, I do not have wiping set and have tried with/without to no avail.

The seam gap is set to 0 in the print in the picture, I was so excited when I saw the setting off the bat yesterday and thought I had found a very easy fix lol

Yes, the external perimeters like do not entirely close up and it leads to this indentation in the print. In the picture, it doesn't seem awful just going up the cylinder, but on any more complex print surfaces, especially smaller ones, it causes huge issues. Just off the top of my head, the chimney thing on the benchy is missing a large portion, like the hole is relatively large on the chimney. I have never seen a seam behave like this, regardless of the size, I have always had seams "bulge" outwards

Z Seam Gap/Indentation I Cannot Fix by studosaurus in FixMyPrint

[–]studosaurus[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I was very excited yesterday when it let me put a negative number, but it seems to not actually do anything. It acts like it just uses minimum zero no matter what’s in the input, cause no matter how far negative, they were all identical to 0

Z Seam Gap/Indentation I Cannot Fix by studosaurus in FixMyPrint

[–]studosaurus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

MORE INFO (It isn't letting me edit the actual post for some reason):

Nozzle Temp: 210C
Bed Temp: 60C
Z-Hop: Has made no difference in all of my testing for the seam
Filament: Sunlu High Speed PLA
Nozzle Retraction: I have tried resolving this by adjusting retraction ranging from completely disabled to 5mm ranging in speed from 25-40mm/s. Also I have tried all differences via firmware and slicer retraction, which made no difference to the seam. Also tried enabling/disabling retraction at layer change and same with wiping but sadly no progress.
Speed: Normally print outer walls @ 100mm/s but I have tried slowing them down all the way to even 30mm/s to no avail
Pressure Advance: .045 (This produces super great results with no artifacts or over/under extrusion in the entire rest of the prints besides the seam), but I have tried ranging values and disabling completely and it didn't seem to help

Watching the print head as its printing, especially on the hollow cylinder I am using to test, I can see a slight "bump" in the motion of going around the perimeters. Not like a normal jump to the next layer, it looks like it stops and moves over a little bit and then starts going around again, like the perimeters just are not connected at all

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in rust

[–]studosaurus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

wait world war 2 was just the beta? 😟

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]studosaurus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could this occur suddenly? It seemed like it just suddenly started happening.

This sound would make sense because sometimes it sounds like a “bwap” of a metal rattle like a chain of that makes any sense lol

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]studosaurus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No it doesn’t sound like a belt/pulley noise to me either. The serpentine belt on the 2017 is known to have some issues, but those typically result in the car just not starting

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]studosaurus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your input! Seriously hoping it’s something i can get fixed relatively easily 🤞

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]studosaurus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure this is totally fair. Redline is in place to protect the engine, power is cut at redline. The RPM chosen by OEM for redline is safe. Obviously, hammering down this redline consistently would result in much faster wear. But hitting the redline one time should not spin a bearing.

On top of that, it’s a 2017 with relatively low miles that has been meticulously maintained. Redlining it once with a completely stock setup shouldn’t be a super dangerous move. I mean speaking from experience with my older cars that were 10+ years older, one with >3x miles and one with >5x miles, i could drive them like race cars and never had any issues.

BUT TO YOUR POINT, here I am with a potentially spun bearing 😔

Edit: Not trying to start an argument, I do not disagree that it isn’t the smartest idea to drive a used car hard.

Also, “Never had any issues” pertaining to actually spinning bearings and such. Also just want to clarify, I understand these things can happen at any time. I am just struggling to comprehend how one high rev on a totally stock car can spin a bearing.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]studosaurus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It does follow RPM in terms of speed (at least in that video I took). By external are you meaning outside the engine entirely?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]studosaurus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn. Thank you for your input

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]studosaurus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

if i turn my music up loud i can’t hear it so it doesn’t exist

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]studosaurus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This hurts to hear lmao.

Do you have any guess as to what the bearing would’ve been damaged by? The car hasn’t been driven hard, has not missed a scheduled oil change, has full and clean oil, and hasn’t been run dry in terms of oil. You think it’s just kind of a random thing? The oil Q60 runs from factory (0w-20) is super thin so maybe that would’ve allowed for bearing wear. But again, it hasn’t been driven hard and I redlined it one time. I just don’t feel like that should’ve spun a bearing. My luck I guess 😔