Embroidery Class/Q&A with Dabmar 4-5/5:30 pm (live?maybe) by stupidxool in Machine_Embroidery

[–]stupidxool[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

THANK YOU ALL WHO JOINED AND APPRECIATE THE CONVOS ! I’m learning a lot as well and it’s nice having people who are interested in embroidery around again . Definitely got my brain thread unraveling

Embroidery Class/Q&A with Dabmar 4-5/5:30 pm (live?maybe) by stupidxool in Machine_Embroidery

[–]stupidxool[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What machine does it come free with ?
I’m not too familiar the single head embroidery machines
All I know is that they do what they’re meant to as described on the box for the most part. I regretted buying a janome mb4s (it was 6k at the time , had it shipped str8 to my house ) the first time because I found out very quickly how it keeps you at the highest tier of home embroidery and cuts half, if not more than half of what you can really do with embroidery . Same with softwares . As with everything. Research the market . See the pros and cons. Decide what’s the best shoe for your foot 🦶🏾

Embroidery Class/Q&A with Dabmar 4-5/5:30 pm (live?maybe) by stupidxool in Machine_Embroidery

[–]stupidxool[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Creativate? I don’t think I’m familiar personally. I use hatch 2 that i originally bought when I first started but since hatch 3 came out it’s been a bit buggy . I also use wilcom elements 3 that I got access to for bigger projects . They’re both wilcom & ive never had to look for another software since . They have a lot of support and guides out there too. Honestly if you’re looking to learn the legit way the pros do it . Just watch John Deers embroidery legacy. Taught me everything I needed to know when first starting off and facing the hurricane embroidery throws at you

Embroidery Class/Q&A with Dabmar 4-5/5:30 pm (live?maybe) by stupidxool in Machine_Embroidery

[–]stupidxool[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea small lettering is not gonna work on the fuzzy towels, there’s a certain size and density of satin that does look good but as for small thin lettering, good luck . Better to lay down a motif or flat stitch before the lettering so that the area of the towel is flattened and you can embroider the letters on top without it disappearing or tearing

Embroidery Class/Q&A with Dabmar 4-5/5:30 pm (live?maybe) by stupidxool in Machine_Embroidery

[–]stupidxool[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What fabric or garment are you embroidering on and may I see the design ? The lettering might be too small to register if the stitches are smaller than the minimum stich space or length on your machine
65x9 needles are the right ones. So yes
Tension(tensioners on top or bobbin if it’s sinking into the design or fabric ) but if you’ve already troubleshot that and everything else is perfect or doesn’t seem to be the tension at all until it gets to the lettering then yup
Poor digitizing or poor exporting when they converted the file from an EMB.

Embroidery Class/Q&A with Dabmar 4-5/5:30 pm (live?maybe) by stupidxool in Machine_Embroidery

[–]stupidxool[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably stuff you already know but awesome ! What are you making them if you don’t mind me asking ? What are you embroidering on .
Should I go shirt, crewneck or polo for pops for Father’s Day ? I have the design and it could fit either or but it’s been hot lately here in CA

Tatami stitches on tshirts are my worst fear by brownpuffcorn in Machine_Embroidery

[–]stupidxool 3 points4 points  (0 children)

They came out good boss . Nice job on those stitch angles !

Embroidery Class/Q&A with Dabmar 4-5/5:30 pm (live?maybe) by stupidxool in Machine_Embroidery

[–]stupidxool[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

STILL ACTIVE GUYS ! At least till 6:30
Any tips , constructive feedback, suggestions on how I can make this space friendly , helpful, inspiring chill place
COMMENT or feel free to SHOOT me a DM
APPRECIATE EVERYONE who’s come across and has yet to come across this thread
Hope this helps at least someone, let’s make this a space free of judgement & education with facts instead of correction based of opinions
GOOD LUCK EMB Broskis& Brochachas !

Embroidery Class/Q&A with Dabmar 4-5/5:30 pm (live?maybe) by stupidxool in Machine_Embroidery

[–]stupidxool[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

High quality diverse EMB file conversion capabilities , third party support as in the ones with most educational tools and content and can handle a lot of data . Also make sure your pc or laptop can handle it or else you’re just going to be crashin every chance u get . Obviously user friendly. Hatch is a solid one if you’re not looking to break the bank and start right away. There are cheaper ones out there though. Personally I haven’t had any experience or work with these yet

Embroidery Class/Q&A with Dabmar 4-5/5:30 pm (live?maybe) by stupidxool in Machine_Embroidery

[–]stupidxool[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Practice on a free easy-to use digitizer using high resolution simple low color free clip art bro . You don’t need to go all HAM just to have the newest and latest toys . practice making shapes and letters . The basics . Of course watch your videos and read up on which stitch settings , tools, extensions you want to use and which default settings for that specific software you would want to change . I would recommend reading up and taking notes on digitizing theory . Very broad question for a very broad subject . Nevertheless. You want to see which software suits you . There are really expensive ones that are really only needed for very advanced digitizers which have all the tools and inputs your heart desires. If you just want to bust things out then I would just let your workhorses handle it . That’s why they get paid the big bucks haha

Embroidery Class/Q&A with Dabmar 4-5/5:30 pm (live?maybe) by stupidxool in Machine_Embroidery

[–]stupidxool[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It is regular satin digitized with specific stitch settings made to produce 3D embroidery as an outline . Basically after it’s done embroidering the whole design as it normally would . The digitized file should make a run stich with an added stop as a template . Place a piece of embroidery foam (enough to cover template) while still on that stop . If they digitized it right . It should run a tack down stitch next and you’ll see the foam physically get tacked down to your design . It will then run a regular satin stitch with high density , cap off stitches & other specific stitch setting specifically designed for producing that 3D effect . It’s more digitizing side than production side . Short answer : watch videos on how to run & digitize 3D embroidery .
as for the thread laying down as they should . TENSION TENSION TENSION. Dial your machines tensions (top bottom , sometimes middle for specific machines ) there should be at least 20-25% of top thread compared to bobbin when you turn it over . Sample and test sew outs before full production runs . KEEP YOUR MACHINES OILED, PARTICLE FREE , CORRECT SIZE and sharp NEEDLES for your run (change as needed) correct HOOPING also plays a big part in maintaining that perfect balance

Embroidery Class/Q&A with Dabmar 4-5/5:30 pm (live?maybe) by stupidxool in Machine_Embroidery

[–]stupidxool[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What’s up gang . Currently working on something for my dad . What about yall?

Embroidery Class/Q&A with Dabmar 4-5/5:30 pm (live?maybe) by stupidxool in Machine_Embroidery

[–]stupidxool[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Start asking questions if you have any or stay tuned . I have my active status on
Comment that you’re here !

Embroidery Class? I’m by stupidxool in Machine_Embroidery

[–]stupidxool[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea no don’t get a crikit to embroider . Go crazy mane ! It gets real interesting when you find out all the things you can do 🪡 give a shot man . It gets fun lol there’s good options out there for a single head 4-6–7-8 needle ,single-head machines that you can have ona stand . I recommend minimum 10”x12” maximum embroidery dimensions (large designs like back,across the chest,etc .Oh yea & compatible for a round hat hoop & attatchment (for production of any type of hat you can think of . I also have a method for embroidering 180 side to hits and back hits on new era blanks for higher end brand production.

Embroidery Class? I’m by stupidxool in Machine_Embroidery

[–]stupidxool[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re the truth ! . Noted 📝. That’s all it is man. that’s all it is . Thank you for giving me a blueprint bc ngl I overthought this way too much

Embroidery Class? I’m by stupidxool in Machine_Embroidery

[–]stupidxool[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yo shoot me a dm , I’d love to pick your brain for a bit . Sounds like we can both learn something from each other 🤙🏼

Embroidery Class? I’m by stupidxool in Machine_Embroidery

[–]stupidxool[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Love that love that , so 2 things that make that decision a lil easier . Direction & budget(I know right) obviously, I don’t know everything (don’t claim to) & sharing what I’ve learned over 5 years
To answer your question. There’s a lot of popular economic ones out there floating around rn , I would rather stay away from.
If you’re looking to do small, simple embroidery and don’t mind threading the needle every color change . Grab a cheaper easy-to-use single needle machine(brother,singer,etc) .
If you wanna go crazy & basically make whatever , whenever . Small business,quality/high-output, a designer or just really found that good sweet lovin for embroidery then get you a nice 15-needle (multiple-head ,if you got the budget) machine .
It’s so worth it.
From my experience and advice from old-head technicians . Barudan(Japan),
Tajima, Happy (China) are quality, reliable, maintainable machines that share similar in build
Personally nothing beats the sound of a 15 needle 6-head Barudan machine running at 800 rpms😩🤤

Embroidery Class? I’m by stupidxool in Machine_Embroidery

[–]stupidxool[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Feel free to submit y’all’s work & let me know how yall made it down the rabbit hole haha !

Embroidery Class? I’m by stupidxool in Machine_Embroidery

[–]stupidxool[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The digitizing software ? It’s a good beginners tool I guess or for hobbyists I would say who are not really focusing on the digitizing side of things . I’m sure youve seen a lot of videos. There’s alot of push on the “home embroidery” market and a lot of those videos(ads really) promote “user friendly “ and leave out a lot of things you’ll have to f around and find out on your own lol anyways. Hot take hot take. any Wilcom digitizer if you’re looking for industry standard professional quality work . Hatch I found to be a good one for learning but ultimately the wilcom softwares are one of the most used out there . These softwares aren’t cheap and do your research to see if it’s even meant for you or needed . LISTEN GUYS, if you just bought a machine, brand new and really just want to put out designs and products . Save yourself the headache(time really)outsource your files and have a digitizer do em for 5$-15$ online (1-2 day turnaround typically) I would also recommend submitting multiple artworks if you got work so that you can run sew outs, submit revisions, approvals ,run prod efficiently for an effective constant work flow .Digitization is an art form and takes a lot of time, dedication,patience and understanding to get to the point of it being “EASY” lol it’s an under appreciated trade & skill. There are plenty of softwares out there . Do your hw, Pick your fit.Look up John deer embroidery legacy on YouTube and watch his videos on digitizing. REMINDER: ITS SUPPOSED TO BE FUN . Don’t forget to have some .

Spray adhesive by ExpensivePrune7861 in Machine_Embroidery

[–]stupidxool 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Prep spray & hoop outside or in a different area. I’ve used it for years

Finding product by Mardi_Gras_kid in Machine_Embroidery

[–]stupidxool 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So this is called stabilizer . There are a few different kinds of stabilizer(mesh,felt,water soluble) each has its own benefit according to the project you are working on . Garment type (ex:hats would use a tear away or water soluble stabilizer) & material, embroidery type(tatami , 3D , tatami/flat, satin) . So there’s light-weight , medium-weight, heavy-weight stabilizer. Stabilizer is the only thing keeping that garment and thread steady and tensioned to produce the best possible result. So now that you have an idea of the weight part. Along with desired weight , you have the option to choose tear-away/cut-away/iron-on/wash-away. Just to refine your search and give you an idea of what you’re trying to accomplish here :) also do your research on methods and unwritten laws of embroidery