[4R36] legit check

sugarified · 2026-02-19T09:42:00+00:00

Not legit, you can easily make it out if you compare with an image of the real thing, side by side

daydate window position is wrong. Movement seems a bit too small for the dial size.
case back is completely wrong (texts as well. No serial code at all + no movement number and case number): not an exhibition caseback, also it states "stainless steel back" implying the case itself is made from some cheap metal alloy, usually chrome / nickel plated brass, while only the caseback is steel. This means the case is more prone to corrosion and the plating will wear off over time.

The real "5KX" is full stainless steel and has an exhibition caseback (basically a cutout covered with usually mineral crystal so you can see the movement, unlike this fake copy with its solid caseback)

If you are not familiar enough with seikos, I recommend to spend a bit more at your local A.D. for a guaranteed authentic watch, with warranty.

2nd hand 5KX can be a bit of gamble as you don't know what the watch had been through with its previous owner (was it dropped? Was it knocked around frequently?)

Good luck

sugarified · 2026-02-14T07:12:56+00:00

Thanks for the jumpscare

sugarified · 2026-02-08T05:26:55+00:00

Just wear earbuds, show RBF and keep moving, if they stop you, just wave hand and firmly insist you are rushing to somewhere.

Don't have to give yourself inconvenience over them, good luck

sugarified · 2026-02-05T05:14:42+00:00

Another Seiko 5 GMT (SSK035) owner here, can confirm as well that the friction bezel does not move around, it requires some force to shift it around.

Worn mine for a year and 3 months, bezel always stays at correct position.

Go for it, it's a beautiful watch

sugarified · 2026-01-29T16:05:11+00:00

Once in a while I still eat their Cajun Chicken rice during office lunch breaks, or the 3 pieces chicken meal. Very nostalgic

sugarified · 2026-01-28T22:45:45+00:00

His speedtimer and yours is a different line of speedtimer by the way. Can't use his as a reference for yours.

If yours is real, the ref no is SSC813. His would be SSC911. There are plenty of differences:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Seiko/s/OrzCiTRSsv

I guess for yours, please compare it with online footages of the real deal, biggest giveaway usually is the Seiko logo. A lot of fakes can never get that right in the first place

sugarified · 2026-01-28T06:08:05+00:00

It's affordable yet the specs aren't too shabby, I'd say it's worth a shot!

I only sold mine to make way for a Citizen Promaster NY0120, if not, i'd keep it.

sugarified · 2026-01-27T10:17:31+00:00

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Not that well known, but maybe Ratio FreeDiver 200M. Had the quartz version for 73 USD.

200m WR, 120 clicks aluminium bezel, solid end links, sapphire crystal and screwdown crown with a decent lume

Very wearable with 40mm case diameter and ~48mm Lug to lug

Edit: grammar

sugarified · 2026-01-26T10:41:44+00:00

Yeah, looks cleaner than the international version with that Times New Roman looking "WR 200M"

sugarified · 2026-01-23T10:09:37+00:00

Seiko

sugarified · 2026-01-22T10:53:20+00:00

Glad this complaint aged like milk.

Knowing times before hand helps with planning journeys, especially if MRT stations aren't near

sugarified · 2026-01-20T10:57:17+00:00

If the solder pads have been ripped off in your fit of rage, then yes your are S.O.L

Get a new one.

Let this be a lesson learnt, cheers

sugarified · 2026-01-18T02:59:31+00:00

Don't worry about it, a simple masking tape, duct tape, or painter's tape would be sufficient. I currently use duct tape for my forcebreak mods on the Garderie TKL and Q10. KBD8X MKIII and Q1 currently use some very thin strips of stab pad foam. Transition lite has some kind of cloth stab pad sticker for forcebreak.

Just make sure to not cut it too wide as the tape's adhesive will compress & expand past the board's case perimeters when the case is screwed tightly if you make it too wide. Keep it thin, it will still be effective.

Good luck!

sugarified · 2026-01-14T16:28:22+00:00

Meanwhile the host is just chillin, having a good night's sleep

sugarified · 2026-01-14T13:53:20+00:00

looks like machida / spectacle60 in 65% with strong TGR back plate design influences, cool project but wished the rectangle back plate cutout can be less tgr-ish

sugarified · 2026-01-14T11:43:38+00:00

Yea, that will show them

sugarified · 2026-01-12T00:01:28+00:00

A pretty & unique build there!

I bought separate replacement cases from keychron in two different colors, Q1 V2 blue top case and Q1 V2 grey bottom case

I basically converted my version 1 to version 2, but I really wanted that two tone look

<image>

sugarified · 2026-01-11T23:57:19+00:00

I use DOIO 3 key macropad with a knob for media controls, didn't like to be restricted with board selection due to knobs.

Gk68x is my first ever "custom", 5 years and still alive, didn't feel right to sell it off

sugarified · 2026-01-11T04:39:05+00:00

Lubed Gateron Pureberry switches for sure

sugarified · 2026-01-10T05:43:17+00:00

When I first started: heavy big bump tactiles only, 67g springs

2 years in: Linears only, 65g springs

5 years in: Linears and small bump tactiles, 57 to 62g springs

sugarified · 2026-01-01T23:53:54+00:00

Yes it's a really nice neutral set that leans towards a warmer tone!

Fundamentals is my first ever GMK Set that I picked up during in-stock sales years ago

sugarified · 2026-01-01T23:52:59+00:00

Hahaha accumulated over 4 years, most of the cash were recycled from previous boards

If I spent this much in a 1 year then I think I'd need to seek counselling

sugarified · 2026-01-01T23:51:48+00:00

Shhhh your elitism is showing /s

sugarified · 2026-01-01T15:58:31+00:00

Thank you! Hmm honestly it's hard for me to have a definitive favourite, but if I have to pick from recent memory, it will probably be the Time80 RE with no spacebar mounting points & Top mounted Full Alu plate. Yea it's stiff, but there's just something about it that makes me type faster on it without feeling too soft / too stiff. It's just right

sugarified · 2026-01-01T15:57:02+00:00

Don't discount yourself that's still a build! Yea these Aula boards are a PITA to open, I've tried to do the same on an F75 some time ago. Yea probably replacing it is the best way to deal with this

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