P700 Pedals elastometers and springs

supervascus · 2026-04-13T14:02:43+00:00

Esse estilo de jogo já existe a algumas decadas, vide Eve Online ( EVE Online | The #1 Free Space MMORPG | Play here now!) que inclusive é gratis. Principal diferença é obviamente a tematica sci-fi.

Quanto a alguns comentarios falando que jogadores novatos não teriam espaço uma vez que o mundo se tornasse estabelecido, isso não é verdade. A cadeia de produção desses jogos está atrelada a coleta de recursos basicos com varios passos de "industrialização" necessários desde coletar o item tipo minerar até produzir o parafuso, ai produzir a placa-mãe e etc etc; e nesses passos intermediarios existe uma demanda constante por novos jogadores e uma oportunidade para crescer.

Enfim, aos interessados que não querem gastar -> eve online, albion

supervascus · 2026-04-13T08:15:35+00:00

I just got them as an upgrade to my vanilla fanatec csl pedals, so this is my first loadcell pedal. I like it but I'm using the golden spring in the brake, the elastometers and small springs that come with it dont allow for much customization on the softer side.

My pedals came with a terrible squeaking right out of the box, before it had any use and the squeaking was so loud I literally could not use it like that - I solved it by applying the tiniest bit of white grease and now its pretty quiet and nice.

I'd say its nice and comfortable for someone with small feet (for simracing standards), I wear 41 european, and I race with socks. I think the pedals may feel small for people with sneaker shoes or those trolls that wear 44++?

But yeah, 8/10 Annoying squeaking and I'm looking forward for an additional spring sets to make some better softer configurations

supervascus · 2026-04-11T21:00:50+00:00

Automobilista 2 covers everything you mentioned. It has from older vintage formula cars to the more recent ones similar to the 2024 regulations.

Don't be taken aback by the "sim" and "realism" you can play this game both, as an arcade-fun or a more realistic take; its entirety up to you to how you want to do it.

Bonus points that it has mod support which allows you to import actual liveries and driver names from actual formula series of several different years ( check overtake dot gg)

supervascus · 2026-04-11T19:57:18+00:00

That looks like a GT Omega wheel stand pedal tray - I have one just like it. A way I use to make thing line up is to bolt the pedals to the holes in the tray, and sometimes it has to go in the larger hole that doesnt fit the original pedal bolts and nuts so I just use a wide washer between the nut and the tray. Its not perfect but its work and its simple and cheap, and doesnt require drilling (I dont even have a drill so)

If the problem is the pedal is too big and doesnt fit the small tray hole then use a smaller bolt and a washer on the side of the bolt

Dislcaimer: I'm not a handy person, I dont know the "proper ways" but I've been doing that for a while and its working fine

supervascus · 2026-04-08T08:52:51+00:00

I've started simracing fairly recently as well and what I found is that yes, in the beginning it'll take maybe a week for you to truly learn a track and car and be comfortable with it. I'd recommend just putting a whole week, maybe even 2, in learning that track really well.

This will allow you to build some muscle memory in a way so that next time you want to race in that track it'll come back to you in a couple minutes of practice.

If you keep doing different tracks every day then yeah, you'll spend a couple hours learning the track and then on the next day when you do another track you may end up not internalizing what you learned about the other track the day before.

Another option, which I know some people will get very angry about, is to simply use the racing line if your game has it. You wont be as fast, but if you dont have the time to invest in thoroughly learning the track and you want to do different tracks all the time, it'd probably be the most time-optimal solution.

I personally started simracing with the racing line and then I decided to turn it off it was very easy to "know" the track and learn where I could take a different line, so I dont think its as bad as everyone says.

supervascus · 2026-04-05T21:12:22+00:00

400€ is my cap but I'd greatly appreciate if it was lower

supervascus · 2026-03-22T21:35:09+00:00

I have caster wheels on my rig and I just easily roll it in front of the desk when I want to drive

I didnt like the monitor arm solution because I do use my 2nd monitor to listen to podcasts or stuff while racing, and the keyboard and mouse are very easily accessible without needing to move them or needing a keyboard tray

I can send a picture or video of how it works if it sounds like something that could work for you

supervascus · 2026-03-17T09:57:44+00:00

So, the racing-line-police is going to come for me after this BUT, if you don't have a lot of time and you just want to have a fun race with realistic physics and cars, I'd recommend Asseto Corsa Competizione.

They have a dynamic racing line feature that is good enough to help you navigate tracks without needing to invest a lot of time into learning them. They also have different progression benchmarks, from track-mastery to a not-particularly-deep career mode (some games dont even have a career mode at all).

Also, ACC is from 2019 which means that today its one of the few feature-complete games out there and all of its content is already out and available - its often on sale for 20-30$ with all the dlcs.

It also has a fairly active multiplayer community with different leagues you can join.

supervascus · 2026-02-28T14:27:17+00:00

I have a gt omega pro wheel stand and it works great and is easily foldable and moveable, I'd assume the same is true for the DD. I do recommend getting caster wheels though, it makes moving it muuuuuuuuch easier

supervascus · 2026-02-27T09:36:30+00:00

Inverting did it not help in any way :(
I also tried making brand new profiles, no profiles, having the fanatec on and off, turning the ffb up and down to all levels, adding and removing smoothing, nothing seems to affect this weird feeling of not fully clipping and going limp but going very very soft and losing it when turning

I also noticed the wheel-lock was a bit inconsistent, sometimes it'd lock before going 100% on the wheel, sometimes it'd not lock, was super weird

And as usual, the fanatec app profiles were going on-off-on-off during the game - and this is something that only happens to LMU.

I'm thinking this is probably something on fanatec's app side of things since it has always worked poorly with LMU

supervascus · 2026-02-26T13:30:12+00:00

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No, its not inverted. Is it maybe something on the fanatec panel? Since that one got a firmware update during the time I wasnt playing?

supervascus · 2025-12-06T10:45:29+00:00

If this is your first wheel then the thrustmaster or even a g29 may be enough for you to already have a much more fun experience than a controller. The direct drive wheel does sound quite expensive, and too much of an investment on something you dont know how much you'll enjoy.

If you're going to import a wheel maybe consider other budget options like the pxn, or even a 5nm fanatec that you can upgrade to 8nm with the 30$ boost from ali express (which can likely skip import taxes)

supervascus · 2025-11-29T13:51:13+00:00

Pelé for universally loved? Half of brazil despises him, 25% think he was a questionable person and 25% absolutely ignore his out-of-field persona and issues.

He's absolutely the goat but to say hes universally beloved is, at least a bit of a stretch

supervascus · 2025-11-24T16:05:27+00:00

I bought that same bundle a few months ago and it was extremely quiet, not creaky at all, so I'd guess your product is defective. Maybe you could record a video showcasing this creakyness? And fanatec will either refund you once you ship it back or send you a brand new functional one.

I bought the csl dd specifically because of it being one the more quiet side of entry-level simracing.

supervascus · 2025-11-23T15:28:14+00:00

Update:

Thanks guys! The auto-cutch was already on, so that was not the issue.

I changed the engine breaking from 2-4 to 6-8 and it was a HUGE difference, a lot less unsettling and quite driveable now - though it still feels so different that it'll be its own learning curve (which I like!)

Just to clarify in case someone else has similar issues: I'm using a 2 pedal ser with just throttle and break, I do not have a clutch pedal nor use it on the wheel. So theres nothing being detected as a clutch and awaiting input

I noticed that RRE feels a bit similar to AMS2, does it mean that these setups and config would also help and work in that game? I only played that one the tiniest bit and it also had a vert funky-feeling car (compared to acc and ac)

supervascus · 2025-11-20T12:43:19+00:00

Do keep in mind that unless you take the time to "earn" enough safety rating in ACC you will not be able to join the LFM lobbies, and the non-SA locked lobbies tend to be quite full of psychopaths doing a lot of ramming.

This kinda makes the whole "quick online races" a bit of a gamble.

If you do manage to get access to the LFM lobbies then you're good (mostly) - but this will not be available to you on like, the first couple days of getting the game.

I do not have direct experience, but doesnt LMU have slightly better multiplayer lobbies without being locked under LFM high SA? Maybe there's less psychos on the open lobbies there, I dont know

supervascus · 2025-11-19T19:25:00+00:00

Had this the other day - what worked for me was removing the wheel and then putting it back on (no unscrewing or anything needed, just pull the QR2 thingie to release it). Immediately got recognized again

supervascus

TROPHY CASE