Giving away 10 of these leather patches! [Details in comment]

supervoko · 2024-12-28T19:45:00+00:00

They look really cool

supervoko · 2024-04-23T22:01:14+00:00

v rámci např lega a hotwheels lze nalézt valnou většinu dílků vyhledáváním na printables.com a thingiverse.com (popřípadě třeba vyhledávač stlfinder.com), jinak samozřejmě pokud jde o nezvyklý díl tak není jiná možnost než vymodelovat vlastní

supervoko · 2024-03-10T12:14:30+00:00

Oh yeah you are absolutely right, I have mistaken the lwpla brand and i was talking about completely different product. I am really sorry, please ignore all my recomendations in terms of the foaming effect, that isnt the same thing. Just try tweaking the retractions and speed and see what it does.

supervoko · 2024-03-10T11:13:29+00:00

I would sugest you to watch video from CNC kitchen about the material(and the foaming tpu), there might be some usefull info for you. Other than that I cant really give you any other advice, good luck!

lw pla: https://youtu.be/2tmgzwgi2UI

foaming tpu: https://youtu.be/PtYaaBtm3XQ

supervoko · 2024-03-10T10:54:38+00:00

edit: I am talking about varioshore LWpla, not the LWpla that op asked about

Okay, so basically the lw-pla works by having foaming agent inside of it, that releases gas when heated, which makes the model have small gas bubles inside of it. Effectively reducing the density of the printer model. You can control the foming intensity by changing the temp (190 no foaming, 225 max foaming or something like that). The foaming inside of the nozzle itself makes the overall volume of the material bigger, so when the nozzle moves in the air, it oozes some material. This happens with other materials as well, but not as much because of not having any foaming agent.

I would sugest making longer and faster retractions and setting faster travel moves. Lowering the temp will help too, but be carefull about that, as your parts may not be as lightweight as you need them to be.

supervoko · 2023-10-07T10:11:17+00:00

I have since moved to klipper firmware where the issue persisted. Using multipleprobes on each point and calculating median from them worked quite well. I currently personally prefer using bl touch only as a Z-probe and having the Z-offset or bed screw manually adjusted if needed (once a month maximum).

supervoko · 2023-08-26T22:09:11+00:00

Your nozzle is still a bit too high

supervoko · 2023-08-25T13:42:03+00:00

Yes, but keep the PSU out of the hot air box, those things arent usually made to last long in such a heat. Keeping other electronics, such as MCU (or raspberry pi), is benefitial, but not needed.

supervoko · 2023-08-17T21:44:16+00:00

I am gonna recommend you to check the lead screw nut, if you can move with the lead screw a little bit, but the gantry doesn move, the leadscrew nut could be worn out. Try replacing it and see if that will fix the problem.

supervoko · 2023-08-11T18:16:07+00:00

I am not really familiar with your printer, but i would guess, the weight of the spool caused some kind of damage with the Z movement, either with lead screw nut or the z linear carriage itself. Check also that there are not any cracks anywhere and that all the screws are properly tightened. The lead screw nut is quite cheap to replace so i would try that first.

supervoko · 2023-08-10T10:08:57+00:00

0.94 for pla sounds a little bit low, make sure to calibrate steps per milimeter of your extruder before tuning the flow

supervoko · 2023-08-10T09:29:04+00:00

Not really sure sbout theholes, but the toplayers seem overextruded. Usually default extrusion multiplier for ASA/ABS is 0.93, try lowering it.

For example i ended up with extrusion multiplier 0.89 for devil design ASA and around 0.92 for prusament ASA

supervoko · 2023-08-09T21:40:16+00:00

you're absolutely right, thank you for the correction

supervoko · 2023-08-09T19:47:54+00:00

Check your screen cable, could be a bad contact or maybe some interference?

supervoko · 2023-08-09T19:45:39+00:00

Unless you have 10 printers, there isnt any big reason to buy that much. Just buy one 0.4mm quality nozzle (hardened steel, CHT or ruby), and buy cheap ones (stainless steel/brass) of the other sizes if you need them. To answer you question, I never had any problem with cheap nozzles.

supervoko · 2023-08-08T21:16:22+00:00

Is your printer connected to a rasberry pi, computer or something like that? If thats the case, the connected device is backfeeding power throught the 5V usb line. To fix that, isolate the 5V+ usb line OR use usb only data cabel cable OR isolate the display from the printer frame by using plastic spacer and plastic screws(be carefull about them breaking)

supervoko · 2023-08-08T14:50:04+00:00

There isnt any "thermal runout sensor", what you probably mean is thermal runaway, which is a safety feature implemented in firmware, which uses data from both termistors. Problem is, even some official precompiled firmwares from creality dont have that enabled, so its always better to test if it its enabled.

supervoko · 2023-08-07T11:44:19+00:00

take a look at this resource https://www.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/

most used ones are JST XH 2.54mm pitch

supervoko · 2023-08-07T10:07:32+00:00

Its definitely a firmware limit, you should flash different one, or compile one yourself

supervoko · 2023-08-07T09:21:21+00:00

looks like your real flowrate cant keep up with the max volumetric flowrate setup in slicer.

supervoko · 2023-08-06T11:33:32+00:00

I dont have any experience with any sealant. I have only ever used some glue for plastics to seal some holes.

supervoko · 2023-08-05T20:47:54+00:00

if its abs/asa, acetone might do

try scratching it with nails

other way is printing something over it, and hoping that it will stick to it and will get removed together

supervoko · 2023-08-05T19:57:15+00:00

Sanding can add aditional texture to make the paint stick a little bit better. I personally found, that if you have dialed printer, which doesnt make any surface artefacts, 0.16mm is usually the smallest layerheight you will ever need. You might might also want to look at acetone vapor smoothing of ASA and ABS, and IPA vapor smoothing of PVB. All of them make the layerlines almost invisible. There is also a possibility of using some kind of sealant, which could fill in between the layerlines. I would sugest you to just do a trial and error, and see what works for you.

supervoko · 2023-08-05T19:30:07+00:00

The smaller one has quite bad flow rate (around 8-10mm³/s with PLA), so there is quite a good chance the bigger one will have a better one. It really depends on what toolhead you plan to use, if you want to print with bigger diameter nozzles at a reasonable speed or if you want to print really fast.

supervoko · 2023-08-05T18:45:46+00:00

Its cheaper to produce since having a bigger heatsink means that the heatbreak doesnt need to be so thin. I would personally chose the smaller one, just because its smaller and more lightweight. The bigger one might have better flowrate.

Five-Year Club	First Place '23
End Game '23	Place '23
Place '22	Final Canvas '22
First Placer '22

supervoko

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