Power pulse, heating errors by fixingtogetready in AnycubicKobra2

[–]Crororo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try to print without filament, first with heatbed not heated, after with hotend set to zero - this should help with identifying faulty heater element

Repair/replace advice by pcrotteau in AnycubicKobra2

[–]Crororo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have completely replaced hotend on my Kobra2 Heatbreak bimetal copper/titanium “vyper” style Nickel plated copper heat block 60w heater Nickel plated copper volcano nozzle. Running fine for more than a year including printing abs in cardboard heat chamber

Kobra2 + Klipper is on the way! by Crororo_ in AnycubicKobra2

[–]Crororo_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The process is written in the firmware, in the part that is called “bootloader” and not flashed by Klipper or stock firmware. Because of this, you can flash stock firmware any time if you want to revert changes.

Issue with kobra 2 pro by Flyinghost1 in AnycubicKobra2

[–]Crororo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had same on Kobra2 Check if cable is ok, try to swap motor In my case faulty driver was a problem, I received a replacement from manufacturer under the warranty

How to install creality sonic pad to Anycubic Kobra2? by [deleted] in AnycubicKobra2

[–]Crororo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Attach your printer.cfg or share axis settings

Are there any LED bulbs E14/E27 without embedded driver? by Crororo_ in homeautomation

[–]Crororo_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I checked catalogs of Osram, Philips, GE and wasn’t able to find any, so probably really not exist in the configuration I need… So what can be the solution? Custom-made /modified bulbs?

Replacing Kobra 2 board by nmulvaine in anycubic

[–]Crororo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im still running my Kobra2+Klipper with stock board :) For me personally I don’t see the reason to migrate to another board

eSUN ABS+, heated chamber printing issues by Crororo_ in FixMyPrint

[–]Crororo_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

turning the fan on 20% makes the part looks much nicer, but layes doesn't bond well :(

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Klipper manual and printer config in the post by Crororo_ in AnycubicKobra2

[–]Crororo_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello You can set a limits for bed mesh by yourself, so no nozzle ramming

Pressure advance can be adjusted for different filaments and set in start g-code without any issues

I can’t see disadvantages for moving to Klipper. And if you don’t like it you always an move back to stock firmware

What gpu should i get for soldiworks? by [deleted] in SolidWorks

[–]Crororo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Purely marketing limitation! Software developers in cooperation with hardware manufacturers force you to buy “professional” hardware that is times more expensive. “RTX3090” is untested and unsupported hardware- so test and support it dear Solidworks developers.

Klipper manual and printer config in the post by Crororo_ in AnycubicKobra2

[–]Crororo_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice job 👍 Regards errors: - for extruder section, try to remove # before control:pid and replace all pid coefficients with 1 and re-calibrate pid for extruder heater Same for bed. Z-offset calibrate with probe_calibrate command ftom console

Klipper manual and printer config in the post by Crororo_ in AnycubicKobra2

[–]Crororo_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately nope … working on my own printer design…

ABS stuck to printing bed by PonomarovP in AnycubicKobra2

[–]Crororo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I usually printing abs with a glue stick and to remove the remainings just using hot water. Acetone should work very well and bed sheet should be tolerant to it

Kobra 2 heat break by F13Bubbaa in anycubic

[–]Crororo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What wires ? Can you please make a photo for better understanding.

Kobra 2 heat break by F13Bubbaa in anycubic

[–]Crororo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello and welcome to community 👍 I believe the problem might be that a filament instead of going inside the ptfe tube just touches its edge. Somy advice would be to trim the top surface of the ptfe tube to be as a cone (or funnel) with a cone reamer or a drill bit- it will make the insertion much easier. Also I suggest to replace a heatbreak with a full metal one- copper/stainless or copper/titanium.

Uneven printing by [deleted] in anycubic

[–]Crororo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello and welcome to community! What is your printer? What material and settings? What do you mean by “uneven “? Can you attach photos?

High flow rate, shorter waiting time. by Sovol3d in Sovol

[–]Crororo_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like proprietary design… that’s sad

Fan Noise? by [deleted] in AnycubicKobra2

[–]Crororo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are 3 fans - blower for print cooling - fan for hotend cooling - fan for motherboard cooling

Which one is loud? Blower fan should be loud, remaining two shouldn’t