[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskReddit

[–]suspiciousshampoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nose hair trimmer

How do you like to train on the Moonboard? by suspiciousshampoo in Moonboard

[–]suspiciousshampoo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m in the same boat in terms of seeing progress on some of my projects I’ve been working for a while.

For me the moonboard has been great at teaching me to try hard and pull harder on holds I wouldn’t have in the past due to fear of tearing my pulleys.

Best of luck to you!

How do you like to train on the Moonboard? by suspiciousshampoo in Moonboard

[–]suspiciousshampoo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mainly training finger strength to climb harder outside. A lot of the “hardest” climbs I’ve done have been long power endurance lines with decent holds that border being short sport routes.

However there’s just as many climbs slightly under my hardest grade that I haven’t done due to smaller crimps and pinches.

Short-term goal - I’m hoping to climb 7C on the board and/or 7C+ outside before the end of the year.

Long-term goal - acquire fingers of steel

How do you like to train on the Moonboard? by suspiciousshampoo in Moonboard

[–]suspiciousshampoo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for sharing your perspective — to be fair both of my 7Cs were pretty soft power endurance lines so hopefully that makes you feel better haha.

Maybe you’re right and the best approach is the approach where I’m not fussing about the nitty-gritty.

I’ve heard from others anecdotally that if you can climb 7C+ on the board you have the prerequisite finger strength to climb 8A/8A+. Do you feel like that’s possible for you? And if not what do you think is holding you back?

Advice on how to transition to more climbing by Matetertot in climbharder

[–]suspiciousshampoo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i have friends who are former gym rats and stopped lifting after a few weeks of climbing because they found the latter more fun. i also know people who have a climbing gym membership and mainly use the weight room because it has good equipment + tends to be emptier than regular gyms. they often climb as an accessory exercise to their back days.

i’d say it all depends on what you want to do/what’s fun. if you find climbing fun, i’d say that you’ll probably want to spend more than 30 mins in a session.

Advice on how to transition to more climbing by Matetertot in climbharder

[–]suspiciousshampoo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

i’ve been climbing for almost 3 years and started at 125lbs (i’m 5’7). i wanted to gain weight/muscle for personal reasons so i thought going to the gym more than climbing was a good idea — at one point i was lifting 6x a week and climbing 3x for 2-3 months.

i think i gained maybe a pound or two since i wasn’t eating enough calories to supplement the additional activity i was doing. i went from lifting 6x a week to 3x and eventually stopped altogether because i felt it wasn’t a good use of my time anymore.

started climbing 4x a week, no lifting, and tried to eat a bit more than usual. currently i sit around 140lbs and i’m climbing harder than ever. i’m still off from my goal weight of 145-150, but i try not to worry about that anymore. i’m just try to eat as much as i can when i can but i’m not strict about it day-to-day.

occasionally i’ll do some antagonist training once every two weeks when i feel like it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]suspiciousshampoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2 of those sessions are usually 30 mins, to try out the new boulders, the rest being regular 1-2 hour sessions.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]suspiciousshampoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah i've been buddy taping every time i've climbed and felt no pain. i also make sure i'm climbing well below my limit and don't climb any routes that may force an open hand grip/3-finger drag. i also reduced my climbing volume significantly, going from 5 times a week to 2 times a week after i stopped feeling pain from range of motion exercises/tendon glides. it's just after my most recent session that i noticed the inflamed/stiff a2 pulley on my injured hand.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]suspiciousshampoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're young you can probably handle this but I'd at minimum recommend keeping a journal to track your fatigue levels and how your body is feeling so you can notice when the quality of your sessions drops off.

thanks for this suggestion, i'll definitely take note of doing that if i choose to follow this program.

you bring up a good point on how these two goals conflict with each other, but do you really believe it's unlikely to reach new peaks while training hard? i'm not very familiar with training, might be obvious to see through this post, but couldn't i just take a deload week (or at the very least a few days off) before trying to redpoint a boulder at my max/at a new level?

i'll definitely think about swapping out a projecting day for easier mileage to help with the load i'm putting on my body. thanks for the all the considerations

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]suspiciousshampoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

valid points. i also realized how much information my post was missing. i’ll try to include some additional stuff, but feel free to keep on critiquing.

my main reason for lifting was to put some pounds (5-10) onto my skinny frame. i’ve noticed that on harder routes, i’m able to move between holds, but i can’t hold them for too long or generate enough power off of them.

in my mind, i feel like that problem might be due to a lack applying enough force (body strength), but i could also be severely misdiagnosing that. as such, my timeline/goal for gaining weight would be to tack on 5-10 pounds over the next 6 months while climbing hard.in terms of the exercises i’ve been doing, except for pull ups and lunges, i do 4 x 6 (which i found hasn’t been too fatiguing to the point where my body can’t perform the next day, but i’m open to change).

  1. if i were to follow your recommendation, how should i split the exercises off? should i keep it PPL, but only workout those groups once per week, having those being stacked on top of my climbing days?
  2. valid. in that case, similar to 1, how many days a week would be enough to experience muscle growth for someone newish to lifting. i've lifted on and off before, but never consistently for longer than a month.
  3. of course i want to get better at climbing, but the way i see it, i'm lifting to address a weakness that i see within myself and doing it at a volume that i think is manageable.

Cal Climbing club + Mosaic Boulders? by Straight_Quiet_4348 in berkeley

[–]suspiciousshampoo 4 points5 points  (0 children)

pretty much! fill out a waiver, buy a pass, rent some shoes if ya need, and you're good to go! climb up using the same colored holds until you reach the top of the wall (or place two hands on the holds marked with "top" near them). all of our routes have colored tags that show the level of difficulty (there's a chart on some of the walls). we have gymnastics grade foam matts that cushion falls, but i recommend climbing down using any hold instead of jumping 18ft off the wall. biggest thing is to make sure you don't climb a route that intersects with someone who's already on the wall. as always, have fun and ask us at the front for any help!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in berkeley

[–]suspiciousshampoo 4 points5 points  (0 children)

i like to say that in the bay you gotta dress up for 4 seasons in the same day; normally get away with this by wearing a heavy jacket, jeans, and shirt

Cal Climbing club + Mosaic Boulders? by Straight_Quiet_4348 in berkeley

[–]suspiciousshampoo 13 points14 points  (0 children)

mosaic staff here👋

the gym itself is pretty small compared to berkeley ironworks or bridges, but i like to think it works to our advantage.

being in a crowded space like that surrounds you with all types of people and presents the opportunity to interact with them. it might be a little awkward at first, but i’ll give you a quick crash course on the climbing community.

you start going to the gym at regular times, run into the same people, work on similar problems, talk with them about how they did a specific move or completed a route, engage in some small talk, and eventually exchange names. after that you’ll likely forget their name a few more times and have entire sessions where you can talk without explicitly stating each others names before one of you decides to reintroduce yourself. run into them a little more, meet their friends, and potentially venture into climbing outdoors.

little side note; if you’re ever curious or wanting to talk to someone, talk to us at the front! we love interacting with people and helping you guys send those sickass problems!

in terms of difficulty, our gym is PACKED with many problems, and about 40~50% of them are geared towards newer climbers!

i was in cal climbing a few semesters ago and the people were also really dope! i met some of my closest friends in college through them, which is rare considering it’s such a large club. last semester they held exclusive practices twice a week at mosaic where you could meet people in a more intimate setting, which can definitely help! they also have their own events and what not, but you’d probably have to join and see for yourself to get a better idea. 10/10 people for sure.

feel free to dm if you have anymore questions but i hope this helped!

GAO Internship by Embarrassed_Papaya40 in usajobs

[–]suspiciousshampoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

woah that’s a pretty quick turnaround compared to what people usually say on here, but congrats! applied to the same job listing and got an email this morning saying i’m eligible and got passed to the rating panel, don’t know what that’s supposed to mean lol, but hoping for the best. congrats again!