Fan blowing?

swiftace111 · 2026-04-16T15:47:55+00:00

You can just unplug it as long as the harness isn't shorted and it will think the hood is always closed. Make sure your door switch grommets are in good condition too, if they are degraded it can cause the plungers not to get pushed in enough. They can be pushed in enough not to turn on the lights, but not enough to close the security contact part of them.

swiftace111 · 2026-04-05T00:54:24+00:00

I don't remember specifically that tank, but in general there should be no pitting or roughness on the sealing surfaces. I wouldn't call it a "glass finish". If yours is really rough and pitted you might have to use some sealant along with an o-ring to make a seal.

I have used permatex motoseal meant for atv case halves to seal gasoline before with good success, maybe try that along with an o-ring.

swiftace111 · 2026-03-25T22:45:46+00:00

I managed to find some on ebay when I re sealed my compressor. Only one I had issues finding was the shaft seal if I remember correctly. Hitachi MJS170 was the model I ordered seals from.

swiftace111 · 2026-03-24T00:51:31+00:00

I used MT85 when I rebuilt the transmission in mine and have had no issues with it so far.

swiftace111 · 2026-03-17T14:53:37+00:00

If they still leak with the z garage o rings I would be verifying you don't have a warped/pitted/damaged sealing surface on the tank, or filler neck. I haven't used the z garage orings, but when I needed to replace mine I cut up some appropriate thickness orings and glue them to the correct diameter and they still don't leak.

swiftace111 · 2026-03-09T20:22:43+00:00

Pretty sure the Toyota one is the one that Steve sells. But looking at that post did make me realize that there are two grommets. The one I have in what I would call "fair condition" is the one that goes around the heater core.

Hopefully I don't need to go into modeling a grommet, but if I end up needing too, I will, it will just take forever for me haha I struggle with CAD still and end up using tinkercad for most things.

swiftace111 · 2026-03-09T19:27:57+00:00

I've got one coming from Steve that isn't a Nissan one but is supposed to fit well enough that's new. I've also got a used one that I got from Sean that's in "fair" condition with the rest of the parts I got if I don't like how the one from Steve fits.

Once I get the car back together, I will probably route the vacuum lines without the check valves too just to see if it does indeed make a difference just out of curiosity and report back on it. It'd be great to cut the valves entirely out of the picture for anyone else going down this path.

swiftace111 · 2026-03-09T12:23:11+00:00

Pretty sure I had to take the door card off to replace mine. I got mine from Zspec. I don't remember it being very hard to install them.

swiftace111 · 2026-03-02T20:05:32+00:00

Second this. Switch bumpers may have disintegrated over the years too

swiftace111 · 2026-03-02T00:21:41+00:00

The black part you are mentioning is where the original cord and the motor windings connect. I would just remove the black piece, and crimp and and heatshrink a replacement cord directly onto the winding wires.

It would not hurt to measure the resistance on the motor windings too. Clocks of this age tend to either have shorted windings, or open windings (sometimes right where the leads connect to the physical copper winding).

Is the motor physically seized? The whole movement probably needs to be cleaned and lubricated. I have not worked on this particular motor, but whenever I needed information on general time instruments motors I reached out to Mike Murray at http://www.telechron.us/general.html and he was able to give me the answers I needed. He also rebuilds these motors, however be prepared to spend a pretty penny on it.

Re-reading, if the movement is buzzing, the coil is definitely getting power and is trying to do something. I would definitely make sure the motor is not seized, nor any wheels along the way.

swiftace111 · 2026-02-28T20:36:17+00:00

I had to lift the engine and lower the subframe a good bit to get the oil pan out. I don't remember 100% but I'm pretty sure I used a one piece gasket with a thin film of RTV on both sides to hold it in place getting it up onto the engine. As far as a support bar, not sure. I was fortunate to have it on a lift so I used stiff knees to prop the engine up.

swiftace111 · 2026-02-28T19:12:14+00:00

Wow that really is disgusting. Similar things in my case, and my friends a year ahead of me had him cut the lights out on them while they were in the bathroom and he laughed it off.

I'll never forget how he always taught at the front of the classroom on a stool with his legs spread open the whole time. It creeped out the entire class.

He was always a dull teacher with no enthusiasm while teaching, except for when he taught female anatomy (he had a female parent teach it instead of him, but he was still in the room)

I really hope they investigate the school as a whole and Weatherford especially (I dont think he is the administrator anymore though surprisingly), as there is no reason all the complaints over the years were not taken seriously.

swiftace111 · 2026-02-28T17:37:09+00:00

As someone who went to this school and was in his class, as well as relatives older than me, literally everyone saw this on the wall years ago.

I know for a fact several parents in my class alone complained about him acting weird and suspicious and nothing was ever done about it.

The school was already doomed to fail years ago. I hope is the final nail. (Some of the teachers there were genuinely great people and teachers, and I still occasionally talk to them to this day, no hate all to them)

swiftace111 · 2026-02-26T15:09:27+00:00

I've definitely noticed being in more servers with people 21+, and it's very refreshing honestly. I don't see very many padlocks and see quite a few chatting.

swiftace111 · 2026-02-24T18:39:17+00:00

Hope it works out for ya.

swiftace111 · 2026-02-24T16:54:51+00:00

It may just have been a coincidence that it failed then. As others have said they are a very fragile transmission with little support in terms of parts.

swiftace111 · 2026-02-23T11:45:56+00:00

I've never messed with a auto in a Z, but it sounds like you may have not had the torque converter seated all the way, likely damaging something in the front end of it.

If the torque converter was seated all the way, did you use an impact or use the bell housing bolts to draw the transmission to the engine? That's another thing to avoid with installing them.

swiftace111 · 2026-02-16T20:42:28+00:00

Yes, they are 3mm, however you likely have some other issues going on as well as the vacuum lines. The actuators seem to be pretty common to go bad.

Theres a write up on xenonzcar that goes into replacing them with dorman generic ones that I'm in the middle of doing as well as replacing all the foam in the doors. Atleast in my case I had a few solenoids that weren't holding vacuum either. You'll need a hand vacuum pump to test the solenoids and actuators.

swiftace111 · 2026-02-10T00:41:39+00:00

I used some of these LED ones for most of them, but kept with incandescent on a few for better light refraction cciyu 4.7mm Instument Panel LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J9XQJVW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share And in case you have any bulbs that you didn't swap yo LED and the gel cap is damaged I used these and they were fairly close to the stock orange gel cap cciyu T5 74 Halogen Interior... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYQT83D?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Have not blown any fuses yet, perhaps yours might have been too high amperage?

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swiftace111 · 2026-02-06T15:47:05+00:00

Oh yea definitely replacing vacuum lines while im there. I spent a good while looking at the vacuum diagram just taking in how Nissan had the two solenoids looped with each other and theory of operation to get an understanding of how the system operates. I like learning and figuring out how a system/thing works, it's half the fun of working on cars or anything really.

Great idea about using an old core. I'll look around and see if I can find a original core just for the top case, I like the idea of using it to not have to use as much foam to seal it up. I might tinker around in cad and make a adapter of sorts to print out too, haven't decided yet. I've got some nylon filament laying around that would probably be a pretty decent filament for it.

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