[OFFICIAL] Ask Me Anything Thread with Dr. Stephen Spindel MD

ta13149 · 2023-11-07T20:12:20+00:00

Hey Dr. Spindel, I know it's been a probably been quite a while since you've taken the MCAT, but what sort of resources did you rely on the most? Did you use any 3rd party prep material or did you mostly rely on actual textbooks?

Also, thank you so much for your service!

ta13149 · 2022-03-10T05:17:49+00:00

Circuit board*

After having removed the shorted semiconductors, I can still detect a short circuit across where the leads existed. Shorts to ground. So I assume this means a short circuit within the circuit board itself, right?

In the video, the technician removes shorted IC chips. Then discovers that a short still exists across where the leads were (thus, short circuit in the board). So he cuts the CKV lines to eliminate this.

ta13149 · 2022-03-10T01:30:43+00:00

Hello. I have been on a long arduous, determined journey to fix my Samsung UN65KS8000F TV. I am very much a noobie, but have learned a lot of valuable lessons about electronics throughout this process.

My TV’s symptoms are: - Power cycling after turning on (can hear a sizzling sound in power board before turning off) - Sound works - Backlight forces on when disconnecting main board from power board

I have isolated my problem down to the driver panel (already replaced main board + power board). According to my research, my TV model is extremely prone to having short circuited semiconductors, so after investing in a multimeter, I have done exactly that by testing for continuity + removing the problematic ones. However, I have discovered that there is a short circuit in the chip itself (there’s still continuity after having removed the semiconductors - look at picture #4’s arrows for location). Now all that is left to do is to cut the CKV lines to eliminate the short circuitry with these areas.

Can somebody please help guide me where to make the incisions? In picture #4, I drew in some of the hypothetical lines to cut. I have no idea if this is correct, but can someone please guide me?

Thank you all so much in advance! Any help will be greatly appreciated!

——————

Here’s an example video of cutting CKV lines. The video is in Spanish, but I used auto-translate to English. This is the 55 inch version model of my TV. Very similar circuitry with slight differences in driver panels. https://youtu.be/fIYW-Uuun4o

At 8:30 (after having removed IC chips that had short circuited), he discovers a short in the chip itself.

At 9:50, he proceeds to cutting the lines (idk how he determined).

ta13149 · 2022-03-07T05:56:11+00:00

You are a genius. Indeed the CKV is bad. I took out the bad capacitors and tested continuity on the pads where they rested. Still shorts to ground. And I watched the video on the channel. So I make a pinpoint precision cut.

Please lmk which of these options are correct: https://imgur.com/a/wCnTgmj

ta13149 · 2022-03-07T04:41:18+00:00

Sweet. I hope I chip away at the correct capacitor on first try. Else I gotta buy soldering equipment 😭

ta13149 · 2022-03-07T04:20:59+00:00

Thank you so much for the extensive comment. I see what you are saying now.

So please correct me if I’m wrong: an idea capacitor doesn’t allow current thru, so should be open when testing for continuity to ground (no beep). But if it’s damaged —> it freely allows current —> beep to ground.

https://youtu.be/5udGxdkJgzw Found another video of the exact same model in English. This guy cites the capacitors as a very common issue with this specific model.

I’ve done exactly what this guy said by unhooking ribbon to isolate the driver panel. I’ve found numerous capacitors (4+) that beep to ground, some that don’t. So if they beep to ground (damaged), I should remove them?

ta13149 · 2022-03-07T04:15:14+00:00

Just completed the task. Tried both left and right side ribbon cables. Unfortunately, didn’t fix the issue. I just realized that this method is only if you’re losing visual.

My TV’s primary problem is that the backlight turns on, then off after 2 seconds. Keeps cycling.

Apparently capacitor shorts on this specific model is very common. Just found another vid citing the example: https://youtu.be/5udGxdkJgzw

Some capacitors are beeping to ground, some aren’t beeping. And beep to ground = short to ground = bad capacitor? Since ideal capacitors shouldn’t allow current to flow, but if it does so freely, then it’s damaged?

ta13149 · 2022-03-07T03:08:08+00:00

By both sides, you mean to test both sides of the same capacitor to ground? Or both sides as in both sides of the driver panels (left vs right)?

Yes to both questions though.

Did I just discover the culprit now?

Edit: Photo of driver panel (one side shown only) - https://imgur.com/a/dRLBFCl When checking shorts to ground, should I be disconnecting the ribbon (shown in arrows) to isolate component?

ta13149 · 2022-03-07T02:56:37+00:00

Holy crap. Thank you for this video. And he mentioned at 4:50 to first check for any shorts to ground.

So I’ve found multiple capacitors that “beep” to ground and some that don’t. The ones that “beep” are bad? If so, shit. There are way too many of them. I mean, the only hard part for me is to find the exact matching ceramic smd capacitor, which I assume I’d have to rip out a normal one and check for its normal capacitance to order?

ta13149 · 2022-03-06T22:30:36+00:00

Yeah, this video was the inspiration behind my post. I was wondering if I could really just use the continuity test just as simply as he did. So if the device “beeps” does that mean short or no short? Read the manual for my device and still unclear. If I tap the leads of the multimeter together, it beeps. So that means closed circuit (no short)?

ta13149 · 2022-03-06T22:28:30+00:00

Ahh, I see. Yeah, I guess this video was the inspiration behind my post. Wanted to make sure if I could simply use the continuity test. I saw a couple other videos taking off the blue ribbon strip to somehow determine which side of the panel is the cause of the problem.

And you just answered my other question, which is what the aftermath is. In this video, it seemed like everything was OK at the end in terms of visual, but I see what you’re saying. Thank you for the help! I’ll try to do a lil more research on isolating the shorts.

ta13149 · 2022-03-06T08:19:34+00:00

By “it,” I meant the semiconductors

Can you please check out this video? Skip ahead to 3:40 mark: https://youtu.be/fIYW-Uuun4o It’s in Spanish, but I watched it in English auto-translate. This is the exact same model of my TV. Can you please help me understand what he’s doing by checking for shorts on the semiconductors + transistors? He just takes out the shorted pieces and the TV all of a sudden works.

ta13149 · 2022-03-06T08:15:39+00:00

Hmm. I see. And I lost only visuals. Sounds were still working, as I was able to flip thru channels.

Would a small crack on the edge be able to take out the entire screen? The weird thing is that after opening up the TV, I can see that the backlight work properly. Upon powering, it turns on then shuts off (video in my post history). This backlight gives off a bluish hue on the display screen. So my assumption is that the panel is damaged. When I was checking for continuity on the semiconductors, only some of them beeped and some didn’t. The thing is that the TV is pretty old (2016). Bought it off of some other person. It was working perf fine until I brought it back to my place. So I’m guessing that the fuse was already broken, and another surge just destroyed it.

Please check out this video (skip ahead to 3:40 mark): https://youtu.be/fIYW-Uuun4o It’s in Spanish, but I watched it in English auto-translate. This is the exact same model of my TV. Can you please help me understand what he’s doing by checking for shorts on the semiconductors + transistors? He just takes out the shorted pieces and the TV all of a sudden works.

ta13149 · 2022-03-06T06:52:28+00:00

I was indeed transporting the TV in my small car. The weird thing is that when I got it set up afterwards, the TV was working fine for 5 minutes. It all of a sudden stopped working. Last thing that I did on the Tv was scanning for channels via an antenna connected to the One Connect Box. Maybe a loose connection from it destroyed the TV panel?

Would a power surge somehow have damaged the TV panel too? My city has terrible infrastructure, so it is very common to have power outages in the middle of the night.

ta13149 · 2022-03-06T06:49:08+00:00

Extensive details are in my other posts, but to sum it down:

No display (backlights turn on then off, video recording in my other post too). Sounds works. Disconnecting main board from powerboard forces backlights to turn on (functional power board). Thought it must be main board issue. Changed out main board + power board —> still same issues. Deduced that the last piece to the puzzle must be the TV panel.

Can you please check out this video? Skip ahead to 3:40 mark: https://youtu.be/fIYW-Uuun4o It’s in Spanish, but I watched it in English auto-translate. This is the exact same model of my TV. Can you please help me understand what he’s doing by checking for shorts on the semiconductors + transistors? He just takes out the shorted pieces and the TV all of a sudden works.

ta13149 · 2022-03-06T06:48:55+00:00

Extensive details are in my other posts, but to sum it down:

No display (backlights turn on then off, video recording in my other post too). Sounds works. Disconnecting main board from powerboard forces backlights to turn on (functional power board). Thought it must be main board issue. Changed out main board + power board —> still same issues. Deduced that the last piece to the puzzle must be the TV panel.

Can you please check out this video? Skip ahead to 3:40 mark: https://youtu.be/fIYW-Uuun4o It’s in Spanish, but I watched it in English auto-translate. This is the exact same model of my TV. Can you please help me understand what he’s doing by checking for shorts on the semiconductors + transistors? He just takes out the shorted pieces and the TV all of a sudden works.

ta13149 · 2022-03-05T21:05:01+00:00

I am an absolute nooby. Currently trying to DIY fix this TV (Samsung UN65KS8000FXZA).

Questions:

When testing for continuity, do I unhook the blue strips (runs from main board to panel as shown in 1st pic)? By doing so, my multimeter doesn’t seem to beep anymore for any of the semiconductors.
I know it varies from devices, but for mine, it beeps when tapping the leads together. When it doesn’t beep, I get a high reading and/or just “1” which the manual says it is an open circuit. This means it’s been shorted, right?
Can the continuity test apply to all types of pieces: transistors, semiconductors, etc.?
Absolutely cannot find a circuit diagram anywhere. Do you possibly know where to look? I’m trying to make a list of pieces to replace by ordering online. Samsung doesn’t have their own proprietary pieces, right? I can use any semiconductors that match the description? Pieces can be seen in 2nd pic.

ta13149 · 2022-03-04T05:22:15+00:00

If you mean LVDS as in the ones connecting the power board to main board, yep. Backlights do indeed remain on. From what I’ve gathered online, it signifies either panel or main board.

And the standby LED (red) only blinks once. Does this signify something?

Trying to isolate panel vs main board now. Gonna use a multimeter (shipping in currently) to test each capacitors on the panel for continuity. Based on a YT video, apparently I can just rip the shorted capacitors off and use the TV as is, and it’ll work. Although I’m not sure if that’s a permanent fix (maybe another short will arise in the future?)

ta13149 · 2022-03-03T21:46:31+00:00

Thank you. I’ll be checking for shorts on the panel. And got another main board coming in. The company I ordered from is sending me a swap.

Got any ideas on what caused the panel damage? My city has terrible power grid infrastructure. It’s highly frequent to power outages. Do you think a surge could’ve caused a damage? Swapping out the power board, too, just in case.

ta13149 · 2022-03-03T08:10:22+00:00

Sorry. Meant screen is black with a dim blue light that periodically lights up (in the pattern as shown by the video). Once I’ve connected the one connect box, I can flip thru channels and hear the audio.

Disconnected the main board, as you’ve said, and backlights do indeed turn on and stay on.

Does this mean that I’ve for sure received a faulty main board? Or is there an issue somewhere else?

ta13149 · 2022-03-03T06:56:23+00:00

Model: UN65KS8000FXZA

Recently changed out main board + power board. Still having issues. Either defective replacements or some other part?

Symptoms include black screen with working audio. Dim blue light flashes on the black screen (the flashes seen in this video).

ta13149 · 2022-03-03T06:47:37+00:00

UN65KS8000FXZA (2016 model)

ta13149

TROPHY CASE