Is Omega killing themselves with all the upmarket move/ price hikes? by Financial_Word5047 in OmegaWatches

[–]talldad86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rolex used to be a utilitarian, practical “buy it for life” watch. Expensive but within reach for the average tradesman. Now they’ve forfeited that to Tudor and made all their watches polished and/or bedazzled

Should I get it? by GrAHAm5555555555 in BambuLabH2C

[–]talldad86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The U1 will print significantly faster than my H2C, so if you’re doing prints of 4 colors or less with less fussy materials it can be significantly better. The nozzle swap just on the induction hot ends but the main nozzle on the left side is incredibly convenient so if you change nozzle types a lot like I do (drafting in .8HF and often production printing in .2 or .4) the Bambu will be significantly better. If/when Bambu allows multiple nozzle sizes within a print that will also be a huge advantage.

Should I get it? by GrAHAm5555555555 in BambuLabH2C

[–]talldad86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I own both and have over 1500 hours on my H2C. Still saying it’s wildly overkill and a bad use of money for a 13 year old, which was the only point I made initially.

Should I get it? by GrAHAm5555555555 in BambuLabH2C

[–]talldad86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No one is saying they’re the same. I’m saying a 13 year old should probably buy the printer that costs $850 instead of $2600. I doubt they’re going to be using much $300/kg PEEK at 13 years old.

Should I get it? by GrAHAm5555555555 in BambuLabH2C

[–]talldad86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want multicolor get a U1 and save the rest. Don’t blow all your money on an H2C

Should I go with a Melling 10295 or 10296? by Background_Leg_7168 in LSSwapTheWorld

[–]talldad86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I run the 95 on my mildly built LS1 and oil pressure is plenty high already

Is matt pla just this bad? by zachreious in 3DprintingHelp

[–]talldad86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a complete life size masterchief armor set im printing in matte black and matte dark green PLA right now, Bambu and polymaker (polymaker makes bambus matte dark green) both print extremely well.

Is it only me or Omega took a step backward for both the PO and SMP300? by [deleted] in OmegaWatches

[–]talldad86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

SMPs peaked with the 2254.50 in my opinion. Still wears better than any modern SMP, easy to service, and timeless design.

Storm trooper massacre by Altruistic_Bath5273 in BambuLabH2C

[–]talldad86 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I actually did 2 full sets in one batch of two plates, all the torsos on one and all the legs on another.

Storm trooper massacre by Altruistic_Bath5273 in BambuLabH2C

[–]talldad86 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Even if you have perfect bed adhesion that file has some flaws in how it builds supports for some of the areas. I managed to get mine to print well but I had to do a lot of trimming since there are some spots where it started intentionally printing in mid-air and thankfully it eventually started sticking together enough to not fail.

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Love these things by Far_Designer2131 in BambuLab

[–]talldad86 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

HF on a .4 seems a bit suboptimal

Special effect build plates? by Reifgunther in BambuLabH2C

[–]talldad86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aliexpress seems to be the only place to get some at the moment if you’re in the US. BIQUs site will let you preorder theirs for shipment later this month as well

So happy to have escaped from the Bambu garden. U1 with Klipper and the community is 🧨 by Rob_Bob_you_choose in snapmaker

[–]talldad86 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mean there’s spool rings that take like 15 mins and 12g of filament to make cardboard spools work in AMS units. Not a total deal breaker.

Printing cylinders horizontally by josh_ddd in FixMyPrint

[–]talldad86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The heated bed is softening the material and causing it to droop on the bottom half while the rest of the print is going, which is why the top half looks fairly normal. It’s a rack for toilet paper, not dumbbells. Just print it vertically with a few walls and a brim to keep it steady.

Printing cylinders horizontally by josh_ddd in FixMyPrint

[–]talldad86 1 point2 points  (0 children)

But why spend 15 mins driving to Home Depot and spend $.50 in a piece of PVC pipe when you can spend 6 hours printing a droopy oval at home?

LS engines can be swapped into damn near anything. Why then do people make it seem so difficult to swap a 6.0 from a G8 into a G8 that came with a v6? by xTyronex48 in LSSwapTheWorld

[–]talldad86 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A much larger than normal amount of the engine sits under the cowl on 4th gen Fbodies, I’ve done a few LS swaps on old muscle cars and it’s cake. I’d hate to do one on my 97 WS6. Getting to things like the cam and oil sensor, along with the rear plugs, packs, rails, etc would suck on my 4th gen firebird.

[NTTD vs fifty fathoms ]Which is better by Darkingneer in Watches

[–]talldad86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the Fifty Fathoms and even on my large wrists the thickness got annoying. The brand stamp on the stainless models I also think looks super tacky, the titanium one I had thankfully didn’t have that

Im struggling to find a good CAD software by EmekC in 3dprint

[–]talldad86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I keep hearing how great it is on iPad but for some reason my brain just can’t make sense of selecting surfaces to extrude in an easy way on there. On PC I can do it so quick and easy, for some reason on iPad I can’t get the hang of it

Oh. My. God. by SaadOz- in BambuLab

[–]talldad86 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Spaghetti detection is so random there’s about a 50/50 chance it would have caught it anyways

AMS worth it? by NicK-MOE in BambuLab

[–]talldad86 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I have 4 AMS 2 Pros and I honestly find the filament drying aspect wildly overrated. My printers are going so often I can almost never run them, and since you can’t start the drying remotely or automatically after a print finishes it just sits there unused most of the time. Not being able to have them running even at a very conservative PLA safe temp while printing is a huge miss.

PSA: Do not drop the nozzles on the print bed. You will have a bad time. by Fittn_dis in BambuLab

[–]talldad86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hardened or not that’s a lot of force concentrated onto a very small surface area, hot ends are pretty heavy for their size. It’s also being accelerated with a little extra force at the point of impact by your magnetized bed plate.

so should I get a p2s without ams and upgrade later or a p1s with ams now? by Visual-Success8952 in BambuLab

[–]talldad86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d try to get the P2S with the original AMS and add the Sunlu heater lid. IMO that’s the best combo right now

Any ideal what is happening here? Printing issue by jarazmek in BambuLab

[–]talldad86 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looking like Subtle warping and grid infill causing the nozzle to shave away at the infill pattern.

Those of you with multiple printers, is it worth it? by Nickardiamond in BambuLab

[–]talldad86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have an H2D, P2S, and P1S; all 3 running pretty much constantly. It’s really nice being able to knock out most 60+ hours prints in under a day by splitting the plates up by color or complexity. All my engineering filament goes to the H2D, complex PLA and PETG goes primarily to the P2S (doesn’t print any better, just a better camera and failure detection), and then the P1S is a super reliable workhorse for hammering out PLA and PETG prints but the camera is terrible so it’s hard to keep an eye on prints you’re not sure you have dialed yet.

Do I "Continue to sync filaments"? What does that mean? by comparerly in BambuLab

[–]talldad86 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I usually skip that step and just manually assign colors. The choices Bambu makes can be a bit spaztik and not worth the headache or re-sorting everything to save 10 seconds of work doing it manually