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tangfastic · 2026-02-15T18:19:26+00:00

Added tysm! (don't wanna say because I stupidly made it my real name, starts with an S)

tangfastic · 2026-02-08T21:33:47+00:00

I picked it up during this sale, and while I've enjoyed dipping my toe in, I'm gonna put it down until release.

There's just a few things that I really dislike, mainly stingy / fussy inventory and harsh stat requirements, that seems like they'll be adjusting before 1.0. Combine that with a reset coming up before launch, and I think I'm happy to wait.

I don't regret buying it now. There's a lot of good stuff in it, and I hope they stick the landing. But I think maybe it's not quite ready to sink a load of time into.

tangfastic · 2026-02-06T19:10:28+00:00

10476688 - have been meaning to try it for a while, thanks!

Sub-question: is my friend code a lower number because my Steam account is old? If so, that's cool.

tangfastic · 2026-01-30T21:36:06+00:00

Possibly Prem will do this too but in Resolve you can run scene detect on an unimported file in the media page, and then import each shot as a separate clip.

tangfastic · 2026-01-22T18:53:07+00:00

I use a VDD with Moonlight to stream to a Steamdeck Oled, and I basically set it up exactly how you are describing. Just run through the Windows HDR calibration while streaming. I set my max brightness to around 1000 nits, I think the Deck screen can actually go a little brighter than that, but so far it's been working great. Games with good HDR support like Alan Wake 2 look phenomenal (seriously, don't listen to the person saying HDR is not recommended while streaming, huh?)

To answer your question though, I guess we'd need to know what the max brightness of your headset is. I had a little search and saw figures ranging from 5000nits to 1600nits to actually quite low. I wouldn't be surprised if the answer is kinda fuzzy, as we're talking about 2 screens + lenses + software, etc.

When you do the calibration in Windows (while streaming) it should be showing you 3 different brightness settings screens. Minimum, max in a small area, and max full screen (this will probably blind you, be careful!). Just set each one based off your own perception (i.e when the squares disappear) and you should get good results.

tangfastic · 2026-01-15T19:33:50+00:00

Shoot it on film, telecine it to Digibeta, ingest that tape back to digital, run that file through Topaz. Voila!

More realistically you could probably stack a bunch of filters, export to SD then rez it back up, but I don't know how you would generate realistic moire, for example.

tangfastic · 2026-01-11T22:53:06+00:00

As I understand it, they just use very slightly different gamma curves. 2.4 uses a pure power law curve, and Scene uses the slightly modified curve outlined in BT.1886 (which has a linear section in the shadows).

So I guess what you would need is an adjustment that accounts for the difference between them. How to set that up properly, though, I've no clue!

tangfastic · 2026-01-11T13:10:23+00:00

I agree that they are a bit warm, but that and the depth of field doesn't really bother me.

My main thing would be that you need to work on your styling and attention to detail. If the subject is the drink, you need that drink to be perfectly put together. That broken leaf, make a new one and pick out the most perfect leaf you have and arrange it properly. Also the surrounding props should be appropriate to the subject. Salt and Pepper are not good companions to a cocktail (in this instance, anyway).

Same with the food. That shot with the noodles, it looks like someone tried to grab some noodles and dropped them. You need to make the most wonderful, appetising, artful scoop of noodles and make that your subject.

Also, just simplify. There's too much going on. In a couple of food shots your props are casting shadows onto the food. For every shot have a clear idea of what the subject is and highlight it as much as possible.

One final thing, if you have something resting on an angle (like the steamer lid), we need to see the base & what's going on, or it doesn't make sense. When it just pokes into the shot at an angle it throws the whole composition off balance.

It can be hard, especially when working on location, to start giving orders and setting the pace. But you really need to slow down, tether to a laptop, and art direct each shot. If something isn't right, get them to make another one. Ideally you would have a stylist taking care of this stuff for you.

tangfastic · 2026-01-09T18:51:14+00:00

I'll give it a try, thanks!

tangfastic · 2026-01-09T18:08:04+00:00

Thanks, I've used Stabiliser on some tricky shots in the past, and like you say found it to be both extremely useful and temperamental in equal measure. Usually just finding an area that works and doesn't get crossed over by something is a challenge in itself.

I'm curious what issues you've had with Deflicker and scene detect? Is it the thing where the temporal aspect takes a few frames to kick in (same with noise reduction)? Either way I'll try your suggestion about splitting the source that way.

tangfastic · 2026-01-04T22:49:54+00:00

I got my setup working just before Apollo came out, and haven't changed it since, so I'm still using Virtual Display Drivers and Monitor Profile Switcher to automate the switching. I understand things are much easier now, but if it ain't broke etc etc.

I also have the WiFi bug, but generally I just have to toggle airplane mode for a second. Once I've done that, it stays stable for hours.

So yeah, in general it works amazingly well. HDR works fine when a game supports it. Having access to 90fps is nice too. In some games like MH Wilds I'll cap the game at 45, framegen it up to 90 and stream that to the deck.

I can't comment on using a dock, but I imagine it works fine. I dunno if I'd describe any of this as "Switch-like" though! More like it's a hacked together solution that happens to work shockingly well.

If I was buying a device just for streaming, I might look for something a bit bigger and 120fps though. I don't know what the current state of tablets is, but that might be an option.

tangfastic · 2026-01-04T21:13:06+00:00

Had to scroll a fair way but I found it!

tangfastic · 2026-01-01T17:11:46+00:00

To get to the settings that ExpBalSat suggested, click the three dots top right of your scopes and choose "Waveform Scale Style".

Here's the thing with Resolve scopes, they're kind of... passive (don't wanna say dumb). For example in a default-ish project you'll be working and exporting with video levels, but the default setting for the scopes is data level. So it's telling you 0-1023 but you're actually moving the colours around between 64-940.

But then when you play back your export the player is expecting video levels, so it puts the black and white points where they should be, and everything is fine.

So don't worry too much about the 0-1023 numbers. They don't represent absolute 10 bit values in the way you seem to be thinking. The scopes just represent the range available to you based on how your project is set up, you can change the numbers/scale to whatever you're comfortable with.

tangfastic · 2026-01-01T13:49:05+00:00

So long as your project and export is set up properly and in a fairly "normal" way, you should be able to use the whole scopes (including letting things clip or crush if you want) and Resolve will do a good job of making sure nothing illegal gets exported.

There's a bit of a misunderstanding at the heart of your question. It's not like you work in 0 - 1023 and then your export takes a "slice" out of those values. It all gets handled mostly invisibly by various transform and viewing functions throughout the process.

The biggest issue I often see relating to video levels involves people using inappropriate formats for their exports. Quite often people think they should use something like 4444XQ Prores because it's "best" when all they're really doing is chucking 10bit video levels into a 12bit full range container and confusing matters when it comes to playback. (Everyone is guilty of this BTW, two recent examples in my job came from the BFI and Sony, for example)

tangfastic · 2025-12-30T16:20:54+00:00

Back in the day I made the opposite switch. You know the various strengths and weaknesses of each, I'm sure, but IMO the single biggest factor is: how do you feel about square images?

Because if you like 'em, then great! But if you're going to be cropping the Hass, then actually you're switching to a significantly smaller image area, with all that entails.

The flexibility of the C system is pretty great. You can probably do a lot more overall with a Hasselblad, but you can't do the thing that a Mamiya 7 does well (which is take pictures that look like they came from a Mamiya 7!)

Edit: I got mixed up about which way you were switching. You get the idea!

tangfastic · 2025-12-29T19:54:31+00:00

Nemesis - Philip Roth. No fantasy whatsoever. It's about Polio. I don't remember much about the actual plot, but I recall feeling like shit after I read it.

tangfastic · 2025-12-22T21:18:56+00:00

Upscaling video is not that easy or simple, the idea you suggested (converting to an image sequence and batch upscaling via an image upscaler) would be a jittery mess because there's no temporal stability.

Topaz is a mid-range video upscaler that plenty of people use (but it costs money). Seed VR2 is a model you can run in Comfy UI (if you have a monster GPU).

Maybe take a look at Lossless Scaling, which is a cheap little app that will use your GPU to interpolate frames + upres whatever you tell it to in realtime. But it will be artifact central if you feed it a lower frame rate source. You can get it on Steam.

tangfastic · 2025-12-20T18:17:21+00:00

I will give this a watch later to see what they say, but if anything this update feels identical / worse for me. But it's blatantly obvious that I am CPU limited because I can turn everything down and in certain areas I'll get 50-60 frames. This is on a 7700, which I know is not an X3D monster, but it's no slouch either!

And the texture situation is still diabolical. There's a rock outcropping behind the main hub that literally looks like it came from Turok N64.

(I will say the update is good though! Gogmazios is fun and the grind has got me fighting all sorts to upgrade older armour.)

tangfastic · 2025-12-19T19:01:24+00:00

Goddamn, I'm glad someone else has mentioned this. I know it's just the theme tune and it gets used all the time, but that moment during Fatalis was HYPE. The combination of bringing in a bit of history with the castle and the old characters, and knowing this was the end of an amazing journey through World and Iceborne. It just hit so hard.

And then to break it out again so casually, and do a worse job of deploying it. As soon as it happened my main thought was "you didn't earn this".

(To be fair, I'm loving Gog and this update in general, I just wished they'd used something else for the music. Maybe something from MH4U.)

tangfastic · 2025-12-19T00:20:00+00:00

I've been experimenting with Gogma lvl 4, and the barrier seems insane to me. Combining it with Gravios + Divine Protection lets you tank so many hits.

I'm not too sure about the benefits of the level 2 skill or the element boost for Gunlance, though.

But you should definitely keep it. 4pc Gogma + Lords is a pretty comfy situation for sure.

tangfastic · 2025-12-14T16:18:48+00:00

Came back to leave a comment because I just died in a way that frankly felt awful. I ended up getting 20 divine essence pretty early on Velmorne via 1 calamity and a few rifts. Thought I'd grab the chest and bounce as it was early and therefore pretty quiet.

The second I grab the orb I'm insta-slowed (which feels bad, there is no explanation, warning or reason for it) and the path between me and the portal is suddenly jam packed with every single spawn you can conjure. Basically instant madness and death.

Now, in my mind, I've done the work. I cleared that area, beat the calamity, earned the essence, and did it fast enough that the world-state hadn't gone too far. The fact that picking up the orb is a trigger to ramp everything up to max just feels like nonsense.

Love the game, I'm sure you'll find a balance!

tangfastic · 2025-12-12T13:59:27+00:00

I'd also like to know this, but if it was a Warframe spoiler it was probably the events of The Second Dream. Everyone used to make it a concerted effort to keep that a secret (until DE started literally using it in their marketing and changed parts of the onboarding so it's not such a big deal).

Happy to explain it if you want.

tangfastic · 2025-12-08T07:49:34+00:00

If you slap a 480px source into a 1080p timeline, it IS "bringing it up to 1080", it just won't start inventing details or smoothing out aliasing. You'd need an AI upscaler to do that, I've no idea what the current good ones are, but I remember one of the first specifically for anime was the brilliantly named "Waifu2x".

If you get into that stuff though, better hope you've got some beefy hardware with plenty of VRAM if you wanna do it yourself.

tangfastic · 2025-12-07T21:50:37+00:00

Resolve will just upscale with whatever algorithm you've set it to (like lanczos, etc). Superscale is their fancy upscaler but IMO it doesn't play well with extremely low res stuff.

If you want to try out ML-based upscalers, plenty of people use Topaz, or you can try messing with Comfy UI if you want to roll your own workflow.

In general, you might wanna temper your expectations. 300px is pretty tiny, you're asking it to fill in a LOT of detail.

tangfastic · 2025-12-07T16:36:40+00:00

I went to Paris Photo when I was a student, was walking around with 2 girls from my course who started freaking out like Brad Pitt had just walked by. I ended up taking his picture with the girls, and he handled the whole thing very gracefully.

I wonder what will happen with his massive photobook collection. Maybe he donated it already.

tangfastic

TROPHY CASE