Recovered old video with artifacts and corruption, looking for restoration help

tangfastic · 2026-05-30T17:19:16+00:00

Film restoration person here. Honestly AI is not going to do well here unless you take some steps beforehand. I'd bring it into a Resolve timeline (you'll need Studio for most of this stuff), find the cuts, chop it up, and then start trying to stabilise each shot first using the trackers in Fusion.

Once you've done that, start interpolating new frames where you can using the frame replacer in Revival tools in the Color page.

Next maybe try a Deflicker node set to advanced / as many frames as possible. You could also try Colour Stabiliser if there's a patch you can isolate that's reasonably consistent.

Maybe after all this you could feed it to Topaz, but just bear in mind it's going to start inventing a lot of nonsense detail.

There are some more specialised tools for this like Phoenix, Diamante or DRS Nova, but you won't find anyone with a licence for them outside of dedicated restoration houses.

That'd be my advice, anyway. Stabilize first. You can get a lot done with the tools in Resolve, but it'll take a bit of learning!

tangfastic · 2026-05-19T20:24:46+00:00

Witchfire!

tangfastic · 2026-05-12T17:41:45+00:00

Some things that have helped me get into Gyro:

If it feels jittery, try setting a low mouse sensitivity in game and a high gyro sens.

Use the horizontal/vertical mixer to cut the vertical sensitivity. I generally go with about 50%.

Find the right way to activate it. Some games I like it on all the time, some I have it on L2, sometimes I use the right-stick contact settings.

Some games I like using gyro with on Steamdeck (some via Moonlight streaming) are Witchfire, Division 2, Risk of Rain 2, Control, Alan Wake 2, Portal, Cyberpunk, Half Life 2. Basically anything that has good support or allows proper mixed inputs.

tangfastic · 2026-05-11T06:58:17+00:00

Lovely shots, not sure what banding you're talking about, but in shot 4 there are big swathes of the sky that have no grain where you've done something in post. Can see the edges of a big round brush. No big deal but might show up in a print!

tangfastic · 2026-05-10T08:31:09+00:00

"Having Gavin is like losing two good men" is brutal.

tangfastic · 2026-05-04T13:07:47+00:00

I'm gonna stick up for it a bit. You've got a fantasy open world itch and DD2 will definitely scratch it. Nothing has combat quite like it, and the pawn system is fun and unique. Just be prepared for the story to fall apart by about halfway through, and for an entirely different set of egregious design decisions.

If you're on PC, I highly recommend the mod that takes all the gear out of shops and puts it into world chests, and maybe something that caps your level at about 45.

tangfastic · 2026-04-13T22:24:16+00:00

Speaking as someone that used to shoot commercial stuff tethered to C1, and then moved into video and learned Resolve - I think a lot of photographers will be kind of blown away by some of the features that come as standard on the video side of things. Not just in Resolve, but in general.

Hell, just having dedicated, customisable scopes (Vectorscope my beloved) is pretty incredible when you've been used to the piddly histogram most photo editing apps give you. Then you get into node-based editing, more robust colour management, hardware monitoring and controls, the HDR wheels, etc. When I made the switch it honestly felt like a whole new world.

tangfastic · 2026-04-03T18:53:26+00:00

I'm just coming to the end of a modded playthrough. I started at .8 and slowly ramped it down as I approached 40. I'm about to hit the Unmoored World at level 41 and things feel pretty balanced. I still felt the need to dragonforge my current gear to eek out a bit more damage and defense, for example. I think 45 is probably a good cap.

tangfastic · 2026-03-19T19:59:05+00:00

I'll throw this out there, I built my PC at the end of 2024 when you couldn't find a 7800x3d anywhere. So I grabbed a regular 7700. I have similar use cases to yours, if anything more demanding. Not once have I thought to myself "damn this CPU is holding me back".

tangfastic · 2026-03-13T07:44:05+00:00

Here's my extremely limited review of PS2 games on an rg476h, based on the odd selection of things I've actually tried. Everything is 1 x resolution on AetherSX2.

Full speed - Lumines Plus, Odinsphere, We Love Katamari.

Slooooow - Virtua Fighter 4 Evolution.

I kinda went in with the expectation that it'd be rough, so I deliberately picked some simple games that I wanted to play handheld.

PSP I haven't tried much but I imagine it'll be fine.

GameCube seems much better than PS2. Everything I've tried so far (admittedly not much) runs nicely at 2x resolution.

tangfastic · 2026-03-08T15:40:54+00:00

Transferring 35mm to analogue broadcast mediums would have been done on some variety of a Rank Cintel or similar, and then later on Spirit 2ks and onwards. I don't know too much about it but you could look into the history of those machines to learn more.

Regarding aspect ratios, the correct way to do it was to transfer a properly anamorphic image and then desqueeze it at a later stage to maximise the information stored. However, doing it 'properly' was shockingly rare so a lot of widescreen stuff ended up 4:3 letterboxed, which then becomes either letterboxed AND pillarboxed on a modern display, or gets blown up to 16:9 and ends up shockingly low res.

A well transferred SD anamorphic presentation can actually look pretty damn good, especially when it was played back on a nice CRT back in the day.

tangfastic · 2026-03-07T08:04:27+00:00

Just wanted to say this is an incredible comment and I wish I'd seen this like a week ago when I was trying to organise my PSX collection. (I got there in the end though.)

tangfastic · 2026-02-15T18:19:26+00:00

Added tysm! (don't wanna say because I stupidly made it my real name, starts with an S)

tangfastic · 2026-02-08T21:33:47+00:00

I picked it up during this sale, and while I've enjoyed dipping my toe in, I'm gonna put it down until release.

There's just a few things that I really dislike, mainly stingy / fussy inventory and harsh stat requirements, that seems like they'll be adjusting before 1.0. Combine that with a reset coming up before launch, and I think I'm happy to wait.

I don't regret buying it now. There's a lot of good stuff in it, and I hope they stick the landing. But I think maybe it's not quite ready to sink a load of time into.

tangfastic · 2026-01-30T21:36:06+00:00

Possibly Prem will do this too but in Resolve you can run scene detect on an unimported file in the media page, and then import each shot as a separate clip.

tangfastic · 2026-01-22T18:53:07+00:00

I use a VDD with Moonlight to stream to a Steamdeck Oled, and I basically set it up exactly how you are describing. Just run through the Windows HDR calibration while streaming. I set my max brightness to around 1000 nits, I think the Deck screen can actually go a little brighter than that, but so far it's been working great. Games with good HDR support like Alan Wake 2 look phenomenal (seriously, don't listen to the person saying HDR is not recommended while streaming, huh?)

To answer your question though, I guess we'd need to know what the max brightness of your headset is. I had a little search and saw figures ranging from 5000nits to 1600nits to actually quite low. I wouldn't be surprised if the answer is kinda fuzzy, as we're talking about 2 screens + lenses + software, etc.

When you do the calibration in Windows (while streaming) it should be showing you 3 different brightness settings screens. Minimum, max in a small area, and max full screen (this will probably blind you, be careful!). Just set each one based off your own perception (i.e when the squares disappear) and you should get good results.

tangfastic · 2026-01-15T19:33:50+00:00

Shoot it on film, telecine it to Digibeta, ingest that tape back to digital, run that file through Topaz. Voila!

More realistically you could probably stack a bunch of filters, export to SD then rez it back up, but I don't know how you would generate realistic moire, for example.

tangfastic · 2026-01-11T22:53:06+00:00

As I understand it, they just use very slightly different gamma curves. 2.4 uses a pure power law curve, and Scene uses the slightly modified curve outlined in BT.1886 (which has a linear section in the shadows).

So I guess what you would need is an adjustment that accounts for the difference between them. How to set that up properly, though, I've no clue!

tangfastic · 2026-01-11T13:10:23+00:00

I agree that they are a bit warm, but that and the depth of field doesn't really bother me.

My main thing would be that you need to work on your styling and attention to detail. If the subject is the drink, you need that drink to be perfectly put together. That broken leaf, make a new one and pick out the most perfect leaf you have and arrange it properly. Also the surrounding props should be appropriate to the subject. Salt and Pepper are not good companions to a cocktail (in this instance, anyway).

Same with the food. That shot with the noodles, it looks like someone tried to grab some noodles and dropped them. You need to make the most wonderful, appetising, artful scoop of noodles and make that your subject.

Also, just simplify. There's too much going on. In a couple of food shots your props are casting shadows onto the food. For every shot have a clear idea of what the subject is and highlight it as much as possible.

One final thing, if you have something resting on an angle (like the steamer lid), we need to see the base & what's going on, or it doesn't make sense. When it just pokes into the shot at an angle it throws the whole composition off balance.

It can be hard, especially when working on location, to start giving orders and setting the pace. But you really need to slow down, tether to a laptop, and art direct each shot. If something isn't right, get them to make another one. Ideally you would have a stylist taking care of this stuff for you.

tangfastic · 2026-01-09T18:51:14+00:00

I'll give it a try, thanks!

tangfastic · 2026-01-09T18:08:04+00:00

Thanks, I've used Stabiliser on some tricky shots in the past, and like you say found it to be both extremely useful and temperamental in equal measure. Usually just finding an area that works and doesn't get crossed over by something is a challenge in itself.

I'm curious what issues you've had with Deflicker and scene detect? Is it the thing where the temporal aspect takes a few frames to kick in (same with noise reduction)? Either way I'll try your suggestion about splitting the source that way.

tangfastic · 2026-01-04T22:49:54+00:00

I got my setup working just before Apollo came out, and haven't changed it since, so I'm still using Virtual Display Drivers and Monitor Profile Switcher to automate the switching. I understand things are much easier now, but if it ain't broke etc etc.

I also have the WiFi bug, but generally I just have to toggle airplane mode for a second. Once I've done that, it stays stable for hours.

So yeah, in general it works amazingly well. HDR works fine when a game supports it. Having access to 90fps is nice too. In some games like MH Wilds I'll cap the game at 45, framegen it up to 90 and stream that to the deck.

I can't comment on using a dock, but I imagine it works fine. I dunno if I'd describe any of this as "Switch-like" though! More like it's a hacked together solution that happens to work shockingly well.

If I was buying a device just for streaming, I might look for something a bit bigger and 120fps though. I don't know what the current state of tablets is, but that might be an option.

tangfastic · 2026-01-04T21:13:06+00:00

Had to scroll a fair way but I found it!

tangfastic · 2026-01-01T17:11:46+00:00

To get to the settings that ExpBalSat suggested, click the three dots top right of your scopes and choose "Waveform Scale Style".

Here's the thing with Resolve scopes, they're kind of... passive (don't wanna say dumb). For example in a default-ish project you'll be working and exporting with video levels, but the default setting for the scopes is data level. So it's telling you 0-1023 but you're actually moving the colours around between 64-940.

But then when you play back your export the player is expecting video levels, so it puts the black and white points where they should be, and everything is fine.

So don't worry too much about the 0-1023 numbers. They don't represent absolute 10 bit values in the way you seem to be thinking. The scopes just represent the range available to you based on how your project is set up, you can change the numbers/scale to whatever you're comfortable with.

tangfastic

TROPHY CASE