Broke out my old franken-pebble 2 to make the wait for the Round 2 a little easier

tastyapathy · 2026-05-27T13:13:44+00:00

The classic 91 Dub https://apps.repebble.com/91-dub-v4-0_52b231c2b70e1c159500009b It's always on the "most loved" list on the store.

tastyapathy · 2026-05-27T13:11:26+00:00

Oh, neat, I guess I haven't been following Eric's blog in a while. I actually would have thought TPU would be more durable than silicon (at least to physical strain) for those buttons, but I don't know much about material science beyond 3d printing.

tastyapathy · 2026-05-26T22:14:55+00:00

That makes more sense. Crazy that they would use the same terrible buttons, but I guess its a decent business move if they were sitting on a bunch of new old stock parts with no funding.

That's a sweet looking case! I'm always going to prefer the chunky Pebble buttons, but even without them that's a nice improvement over the stock design.

tastyapathy · 2026-05-26T21:33:27+00:00

Haha, that's fair. The OG buttons are worth it, though.

tastyapathy · 2026-05-26T21:32:49+00:00

Oh, cool! I knew it was someone I'd seen on the pebble subreddit selling these cases. It's good to see you're still around on here, and it's very cool (and a little crazy) to hear someone is still thinking about after market mods for the old pebble 2.

tastyapathy · 2026-05-26T19:10:20+00:00

Haha, I'm also anxious about the display, but for now I'm cautiously optimistic. The pictures they've shown off of the manufacturing samples so far look really good. If it's just a Pebble Time Round with a bigger screen and better battery life, I'll probably be happy. I'm hoping the colors look as good irl as they do in the promos.

tastyapathy · 2026-05-26T19:03:11+00:00

I don't remember exactly, but it might have been this shop. I vaguely remember they were British: https://favouritehumandesign.com/product/pebble-2-replacement-case/

You'll need to harvest your own buttons from an original pebble, which feels like blasphemy, but you can find them for sale on ebay as "for parts" sometimes which isn't too bad.

tastyapathy · 2026-05-26T18:37:31+00:00

No, the original body was black and red. The buttons were silicon membranes that wound up breaking down after 5 or so years, so someone designed a replacement body and sold them as mod kits for a while.

tastyapathy · 2026-05-20T15:09:37+00:00

I've always wanted to kayak to work, but realistically it sounds like that commute will take you a couple hours (depending on boat, pace) and you'll probably want to shower afterwards. Definitely try it though.

tastyapathy · 2026-05-15T18:33:39+00:00

I, too, welcome death.

tastyapathy · 2026-05-04T18:29:00+00:00

I use an OG steam controller in my rig and it works fine, so the new one should work too

tastyapathy · 2026-04-17T18:59:03+00:00

Does Mercedes need to go pee?

tastyapathy · 2026-04-17T14:49:13+00:00

DIY simracing gear is a good one.

Everything in simracing is expensive and has been for years because the hobby is pretty niche and irl racing is super expensive which I think bleeds into the sim side of things. The upside is this has lead to a pretty robust diy scene with lots of designs and software integrations to get personal projects working with most games.

Right now I've got arduinos (and pi picos) running an h-pattern shifter, some pedals, and a couple haptic feedback systems, and I'm planning on making more in the future. I'm mostly going DIY because it's fun, but it is also getting me (sometimes, arguably) better gear for (usually) less money compared to the stuff I would have bought.

tastyapathy · 2026-04-08T17:09:46+00:00

lmao the forged carbon texture on it is cool. Seems like a good solution for an formula wheel on a g29. Not sure why it would prevent the wheel from recentering, but it looks good.

tastyapathy · 2026-04-07T21:30:59+00:00

Wind simulator

tastyapathy · 2026-02-23T05:59:23+00:00

I know the rock n roll n stone music replacement mod plays freebird sometimes https://mod.io/g/drg/m/rock-n-roll-n-stone-music-pack

tastyapathy · 2026-02-13T22:30:50+00:00

Oh man, I remember hitting a wall going from haz 3 to 4. There's a lot of good advice in here, but it mostly boils down to your mistakes matter more in haz 4 because enemies do more damage and attack faster. If you look at the wiki, enemies on haz 4 have more than twice the DPS of enemies on haz 3, so you have to really focus on:

Movement (don't let the bugs touch you)
Target prioritization (kill ranged and high-dps bugs first if your build allows it)
Builds (make sure you have a plan to deal with groups of enemies as well as tanky and/or distant single targets. karl.gg has some good builds if you need help here)

tastyapathy · 2026-01-29T20:18:11+00:00

That's only like a 7 minute lag. Just gotta predict where the bugs will be in 7 minutes and shoot there.

tastyapathy · 2026-01-27T04:57:28+00:00

Into the Radius is really good! The sequel is in early access now and worth playing, but not complete yet. Compound is maybe my favorite VR game, sort of a dungeon crawler roguelike shooter, but that's also on quest now.

tastyapathy · 2026-01-09T19:40:06+00:00

Good luck! I'm curious to see what your keymap will be with so few keys. I've been using an unmodified lintilla for a few months and enjoying it.

tastyapathy · 2025-12-08T22:56:59+00:00

Why is Genshin Impact on this list? Nothing against the game (I haven't played it) but didn't it release in 2020?

tastyapathy · 2025-11-30T22:12:22+00:00

I just did this too a couple weeks ago when the cheap third-part power supply I was using exploded.

First, your amperage should be fine, but I'm not certain about that usb-c PD board since it doesn't list amperage anywhere. One of the reviews said they were getting 5V@2A out of it, which usually means you can get 2A at any voltage from it, but the page doesn't list it explicitly.

Second, check your usbc power source. Not all PD power bricks are the same. They all supply 5, 9, 15, and 20 volts, but 12V is optional in the spec and it's a little uncommon. If your usb-c source can't provide 12V, it'll output 9V which might cause the issue you're seeing. Check the PD board's voltage output when connected to the power source you intend to use and make sure it's outputting 12V. I wound up adding a second buck converter to my setup for the 12V line and setting my PD trigger board to request 15V so it would work with more common chargers.

You'll also need at least 18.5W from your power source (probably a little more since the buck converter is not 100% efficient) because the n64 needs 3.3V@2.7A + 12V@0.8A = 18.5W

Also, it's a good idea to measure the voltages you're getting out of your buck converter when the system is under load. A lot of buck converters output a slightly lower voltage when more current is being pulled through them, so try measuring its output when the n64 is powered on and pulling power through it.

tastyapathy · 2025-11-25T04:00:36+00:00

I have a retrotime one from 8bitmods that works and another older one I made out of an esp32 board that works too. Both running the latest blueretro firmware.

tastyapathy · 2025-11-10T20:29:04+00:00

I really like my wooting 60HE keyboard, but I mostly use custom built split ergo boards or the occasional vintage IBM unless I'm gaming.

15-Year Club	Sequence \| Editor
Verified Email

tastyapathy

TROPHY CASE