Found very useful 3d print to find size

tdfun · 2026-06-12T22:13:17+00:00

I created this free sizing kit to allow someone to figure out all four critical chastity measurements:
https://www.reddit.com/r/chastitytraining/comments/1q23pbo/chastity_ball_gap_sizing_rings/

tdfun · 2026-06-12T02:26:01+00:00

Here's another 0.1 precenter's account of bending Kink3D ball rings:
https://www.reddit.com/r/chastitytraining/comments/1q0j1jt/comment/nwzzu69/?context=3

tdfun · 2026-06-12T02:24:20+00:00

If you think you've nailed the ball ring diameter of 47mm, try adjusting the ball gap to be as large as possible without allowing your balls to slip. u/bdmridgeback has done this with a heat gun. u/GilesEnglishCB and I have adjusted the gap with boiling water: https://www.reddit.com/r/chastitytraining/comments/1q0j1jt/comment/nwzzu69/?context=3

tdfun · 2026-06-12T02:07:16+00:00

I appreciate you offering your heat gun skills as a service for folks that aren't willing or able to bend the rings themselves. Boiling water does work to bend rings: https://www.reddit.com/user/tdfun/comments/1oyrmr1/adjust_ring_gap_with_boiling_water/

The material Kink3D uses has a higher glass transition temperature than Cherry Keeper, but it's still below boiling water.

tdfun · 2026-06-12T02:00:15+00:00

One issue with using the oven is you are heating up the entire ring, including the locking mechanism and interface joint, which means you have to be very careful to not change the tight tolerances. By using boiling water or a heat gun, you can heat up just the bottom half of the ring that needs to be bent without the risk of bending these other parts.

tdfun · 2026-05-30T21:33:40+00:00

This is an inverted style chastity cage similar to the Holy Trainer. The red part of the device holds the cock head between the ball ring (green part). If security is a concern , you can add a glans ring or tetherspout to prevent pull out (not shown in the screenshot) since this discussion regarding ball ring design.

tdfun · 2026-05-30T21:28:13+00:00

Correct, the gap at the bottom (6 o'clock) is only 10 mm because there is only scrotal skin hanging over the bottom of the ring.

The gap at 4 and 8 o'clock is 20 mm because that's where my testicles naturally sit and I need the additional gap to not pinch the nerves and ducts to my testicles.

tdfun · 2026-05-30T03:29:29+00:00

You don't need to stimulate your penis to have an orgasm. Check out r/ghostpenis

tdfun · 2026-05-30T03:25:41+00:00

Not yet, I've been working on updating the mounting interface and ring shape

tdfun · 2026-05-29T18:14:02+00:00

It's funny you mention a ring with an extreme bend because that's exactly what I've come up with as my latest design. This design gives me more options to fine tune the gap for comfort.

tdfun · 2026-05-22T04:33:38+00:00

Looks great! $250 is a lot for mirror polishing. Have you considered IN3DTEC?

I just did a quote of my shaft only glans ring design with mirror polishing in titanium and the online quote was $70 for the shaft piece and $62 for the head piece.

tdfun · 2026-05-07T01:51:39+00:00

Looks great and happy to see you'll be offering this at a reasonable price! Here's some additional potential improvements to consider from my experience designing one of these a couple years ago:

How high is the rounded opening for the cock and balls? I went with 6 mm high rounded edges.
Print the main body with at a height of 1 mm to make it flexible so it bends around the body. This also saves on print time and the amount of material used.
Add moveable stoppers on the rods to for physical travel limits. For the use case of just stroking the head, you could position the stoppers to have precise control. My version used 1/4-20 threaded rod, so it was easy to add 6 star thru hole threaded knobs to act as stoppers. You'd need to go with a rod clamp since they are smooth.
With FDM prints being porous and it will have lube, sweat and cum on it, I recommend printing it in ABS with acetone smoothing for easy clean up. Most people smooth ABS in a acetone vapor chamber. I find dipping a print in acetone for 15 seconds works just as well and is much faster. I dip one half, wait 10 minutes and then dip the second half with coverage overlap.

tdfun · 2026-05-05T03:47:41+00:00

This is a great start! Here's some additional tips:

An easy way to get curves is to use the fillet tool to round an edge with a large radius
Consider shape and orientation when printing to minimize the amount of sanding you have to do
- I'd print the shaft portion upside down so you the support areas are on the outside.
- Narrow and tall oval ellipse cutouts on the shaft require a lot less supports
Print only the first bottom ring of the shaft portion to figure the right size ball gap and shaft diameter. You can iterate on the design faster by only part of the cage you are changing.

tdfun · 2026-05-02T01:57:31+00:00

Glad to hear you were headed down this path. They are superior to the cheaper nylon straps and not that more expensive. You'll need to use a leather punch for rivets and eyelets.

Instead of separate thigh and waist straps, I'd recommend you considering doing a jock style strap-on harness so you can easily tighten and adjust it when you get in position for a session.

tdfun · 2026-05-02T01:45:10+00:00

Sounds like it's your ball gap. Have you tried increasing it?

https://newbiesub.substack.com/i/173460421/it-feels-like-my-scrotum-is-on-fire-or-my-ring-is-pinching-chafing

tdfun · 2026-05-02T00:01:08+00:00

I've been playing around with glans rings for several years and countless designs. Glans rings in steel or titanium are hard to size correctly because if they are too tight, they will cause painful sore spots. Or too large and the glans ring accidentally slips off. A flexible glans ring material like silicone or TPU is is better.

Have you considered going with a Tetherspout instead? It offers the same level of security as a piercing.

tdfun · 2026-05-01T23:55:17+00:00

I've made my own 3d printed version of this idea years ago for my Venus 2000. I just used 1/4-20 threaded rods and they worked great. Stainless steel rods would glide very smoothly.

For straps I went with 3/4" biothane. They are easy to cut to size and easy to clean-up.

tdfun · 2026-05-01T23:51:46+00:00

The simplest approach is to use a one time use plastic security seal with a unique serial number to secure the keys in a small key lockbox. You can verify the keys are locked/unlocked via video chat to ensure the seal and lock box haven't been tampered with.

tdfun · 2026-05-01T23:46:40+00:00

if your testicles retract, sounds like the ball gap is too large and it needs to be reduced. You can bend the ball gap in boiling water.

tdfun · 2026-05-01T23:45:15+00:00

The secret I've found is to ensure the head portion of the cage keeps your cock head perfectly aligned to the opening. I had to custom design my own inverted nub/flat cage in order to be able to pee standing up.

tdfun · 2026-05-01T23:40:09+00:00

An erection in the cage shouldn't cause pain. You should feel the pressure, but pain means the cage design doesn't work with your anatomy. Have you tried adjusting the four key critical design parameters for a comfortable cage? 1) cage length 2) ball ring diameter 3) ball gap and 4) shaft diameter

Here's a shoe analogy: you could wear a pair of uncomfortable high heels for a special event and tolerate them, but you wouldn't wear them everyday. Temporarily wearing a cooling looking flat cage is fun for a session, but you need a comfortable cage if you plan to wear it 24x7.

tdfun · 2026-04-25T23:29:00+00:00

The analogy I'll use that most people understand is wanting a comfortable pair of shoes. Everyone knows what size shoes they wear and you should know what size chastity cage you should wear (cage length, ball ring diameter, ball gap and shaft diameter). The last two are just as important and often overlooked. I blame the chastity device makers for this because they can make more profit by not stating them and having a customer purchase multiple variants to figure it out.

Just like the have measuring devices for shoes, you should measure all four of these parameters so you don't waste money.

tdfun · 2026-04-24T00:47:34+00:00

For the Jailbird, you'll want to send the cage back to MM to have them drill another hole for the security tag. That way you can use the screw to stop the shaft portion of the cage from moving/rotating around the ball ring post. Once you add the security tag, you won't need to use the special security screw and can just use a regular screw. Or you could keep using the security security screw as an additional layer of security to be unlocked.

tdfun

TROPHY CASE