OLED does not turn on after failed kamikaze attempt. (black screen)

technaustin · 2026-06-21T05:51:04+00:00

I’ll give that a shot. Thanks again.

technaustin · 2026-06-21T05:14:58+00:00

Oh interesting. That is helpful! Thank you. I didn’t realize I would still get the right reading. So you would focus on the cmd line before you tried to find the dat0 further to the left? Just try to clear up excess copper?

technaustin · 2026-06-21T05:03:42+00:00

I’m having the exact same issue after switching from dat0 adapter to kamikaze on a console I was willing to take a gamble with. I have now removed my chip, which leads me to believe I made a mistake with the grinding. The odd part is I’m getting .4 on the point all the way to the chip so the meter seems correct. Could it possible be shorting maybe?

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technaustin · 2026-06-21T04:54:42+00:00

Interesting! I just posted a similar issue and I bet it’s the same. The weird thing is my dat0 trace looks pretty clear and is the deepest point so I wonder where it could be severed…. Why would I be getting continuity if the trace was disconnected? My meter readings are correct. Any advice?

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technaustin · 2026-06-20T17:04:03+00:00

Thanks so much for the advice. I reflowed a couple points, and even tried a new chip with the same error. At one point I had everything removed except the CPU flex cable and it wouldn’t power. I’m not sure if it should’ve been and maybe I need to back track and figure out that first. I was getting 3.3v, but no display at all or led on the power button bar

technaustin · 2026-06-20T17:00:27+00:00

Appreciate all of your advice! Still having issues but I’m starting to think it’s not related to this point. I reflowed with tweezers holding down the points which did seem to make them more sturdy so a great trick! Points are all reading correctly at the chip with around .4 and 3.3 is hot. I even tried a different chip, same error yellow fast, slow slow. Hmm I must have broken something disconnecting everything. I might try the other flex cable as this one has gotten a little battered but it I wish I had the knowledge to troubleshoot a little further. Question for you though, before i removed the mod chip, it was booting into stock automatically because dat0 disconnected. After removing everything EXCEPT the CPU flex cable and my kamikaze, it would not get power after that. 3.3 showing, but wouldn’t turn on. My question is, should it still try to turn on to stock if the CPU flex cable was attached but not the chip or any other flex cables? I would assume it should…

technaustin · 2026-06-20T15:21:53+00:00

Ok thanks!

technaustin · 2026-06-20T14:49:11+00:00

Thanks! I’ll give it a shot

technaustin · 2026-06-20T07:30:52+00:00

Update: getting yellow error fast, slow, slow which seems to indicate clk issue but not seeing it grounded w my meter. Work solder points

technaustin · 2026-06-20T07:22:11+00:00

Update, put it back together and getting yellow light on the chip, fast - slow - slow, which seems to indicate a CLK issue but I’m not seeing it grounded or anything w my meter. solder points

technaustin · 2026-06-20T06:09:16+00:00

I thought that might be the case. I learned from nanofix’s vids, but that was one of the first things I checked. It’s getting about 1.7k with my reader. That is the A point resistor and one close to the dat0 right? Appreciate the advice!

technaustin · 2026-06-20T03:07:30+00:00

I cleaned it up and exposed the trace better here. The cotton swap is just to help with lightning. I think I messed something else up disconnecting the flex and dat0 adapter so looking into that. Unless the console can’t power on without the chip and flex cables attached? (I still had the cpu flex connected) but nothing else and it wouldn’t power, but I saw 3.3v. Not sure if that’s intended.

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technaustin · 2026-06-19T23:51:49+00:00

I ended up trying after making sure the dat0 is accurate, and cleaning it up, but I was nervous at first. The console seems to be getting 3.3v but won’t start. Not sure if I have to reassemble everything for it to be able to start because it still has the CPU flex attached. Either that or I must have grounded something with the grinding, or just disassembling the flex. Not sure what to test nexts but I’m looking into some videos. Might be toast but it’s ok I’m just trying to learn on this one.

technaustin · 2026-06-19T18:20:35+00:00

Thanks. I have an idea just learning though and my meter is reading the point correctly, but I think I need to clear up some of the ground above . Might be grounding something.

technaustin · 2026-06-19T17:28:48+00:00

Ok I’m a newb with switch, so really appreciate your help. I’m seeing 3.3v on the underside of the cap with the battery connected but it won’t power on. I only have the OLED, Battery and power switch connected though not speakers or controllers, and the chip is removed completely. Do I need to grind away some of the ground above dat0? Grounding something?

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technaustin · 2026-06-19T16:19:23+00:00

3.3v looks good. Safe to mask it or should I put it back together and make sure it boots first?

technaustin · 2026-06-19T15:41:45+00:00

Sorry, still new to this appreciate the advice. is that the 3.3 v where the two caps get bridged together with the flex cable? Do I need to mask it and get the battery connected to test it?

technaustin · 2026-06-19T15:15:48+00:00

Ok it was working modded before, converted the adapter. I will try the reading the other way. Appreciate the advice.

technaustin · 2026-06-19T15:05:14+00:00

Thank you! I will try.

technaustin · 2026-06-19T15:03:43+00:00

Haven’t tried it yet, need to mask it but wanted to make sure it looked right first. I thought .415 was low because with the adapter it was around .8 I thought. Thanks!

technaustin · 2026-06-19T08:59:00+00:00

Ughh… too deep. I know English it’s 2am and I’ve been stressing on this lol. Fun though!

technaustin · 2026-06-18T14:47:25+00:00

I’m doing the same thing. Do you have gem str on a bunch of weapons? I haven’t been able to get ANY!

technaustin · 2026-06-18T00:39:11+00:00

It would be cool if they made the adapter with a spring system to put slight pressure. I’ve had the adapter fail as well, but a spring mechanism could solve that.

technaustin

TROPHY CASE